Anzac Ammo Pouch - Third Time's The Charm!

[Tinneal]

Alright. After 3 attempts at this pattern, I think I've finally got it!

Attempt 1: Didn't have the recommended 4/5 oz veg tan leather plus lining. Used instead some 6/7 oz... Turned out to be too thick (surprise!). The leather used was scrap belly leather, and didn't have consistant thickness and pliability... Decided I didn't want to fight with it, so I threw it back into the scrap bin.

Attempt 2: Cut each piece twice, from 2/3 oz veg tan leather, laying them together, smooth side out. The thickness was good, but when I started putting it together, I realised the pattern itself wasn't symmetrical, and so the case wasn't turning out symmetrical and things weren't lining up where they should... So I scrapped that attempt. Thank goodness this is a hobby and not something were I need to be making a certain $ per hour.

Attempt 3: Traced the pattern again on paper, folded it down the middle and averaged out places that were not symmetrical. Glued the pattern to cereal boxes, cut them out, etc... Pieces were cut, dyed, sewn, etc. When all three pieces were complete, and triple checked for mistakes along the way, I decided on how I would put the middle divider in. There were no instructions on how exactly this divider went in, except for the pictures in the article photos (not on the pattern itself) that showed where some holes had been punched in the divider. Using this as a reference, as well as a friend who is an Enfield enthusiast, I decided on how I would put the divider in. I put everything together with copper rivets, and put the 2 Enfield clips in. Turned out the middle divider was too long, and wasn't behaving as it should when the clips were in it and both flaps were closed. Only solution I found was to take all the copper rivets out and try to put the divider in differently - which I did.

Pouch now closes similar to the picture, although it still seems to be about 50% too wide for the Enfield 5-round clips. Also, I wasn't able to recreate the way it buttoned closed. The article author made his own hardware for it, since he didn't have anything that would work. I chose to just use what I had, but be a bit more creative with it.

Also, my tiny little 11 lb anvil couldn't reach far enough into the pouch to set the copper rivets at the bottom, so I had to use Chicago screws... They look terrible and were a nightmare to put in, but they serve the function I need!

[muz303]

Alright. After 3 attempts at this pattern, I think I've finally got it!

Attempt 1: Didn't have the recommended 4/5 oz veg tan leather plus lining. Used instead some 6/7 oz... Turned out to be too thick (surprise!). The leather used was scrap belly leather, and didn't have consistant thickness and pliability... Decided I didn't want to fight with it, so I threw it back into the scrap bin.

Attempt 2: Cut each piece twice, from 2/3 oz veg tan leather, laying them together, smooth side out. The thickness was good, but when I started putting it together, I realised the pattern itself wasn't symmetrical, and so the case wasn't turning out symmetrical and things weren't lining up where they should... So I scrapped that attempt. Thank goodness this is a hobby and not something were I need to be making a certain $ per hour.

Attempt 3: Traced the pattern again on paper, folded it down the middle and averaged out places that were not symmetrical. Glued the pattern to cereal boxes, cut them out, etc... Pieces were cut, dyed, sewn, etc. When all three pieces were complete, and triple checked for mistakes along the way, I decided on how I would put the middle divider in. There were no instructions on how exactly this divider went in, except for the pictures in the article photos (not on the pattern itself) that showed where some holes had been punched in the divider. Using this as a reference, as well as a friend who is an Enfield enthusiast, I decided on how I would put the divider in. I put everything together with copper rivets, and put the 2 Enfield clips in. Turned out the middle divider was too long, and wasn't behaving as it should when the clips were in it and both flaps were closed. Only solution I found was to take all the copper rivets out and try to put the divider in differently - which I did.

Pouch now closes similar to the picture, although it still seems to be about 50% too wide for the Enfield 5-round clips. Also, I wasn't able to recreate the way it buttoned closed. The article author made his own hardware for it, since he didn't have anything that would work. I chose to just use what I had, but be a bit more creative with it.

Also, my tiny little 11 lb anvil couldn't reach far enough into the pouch to set the copper rivets at the bottom, so I had to use Chicago screws... They look terrible and were a nightmare to put in, but they serve the function I need!

Hi Tenneal

Here is a pouch I made last week. It's an Australian Light Horse Pattern 1903 10 round belt pouch. The pattern was copied off an original made by Beckers of Brisbane dated 1916. These pattern pouches were also used on the 50 & 90 round bandoliers.

The pouch you made looks to be a cross between this pattern and the Patter 1915 webbing pouch. Australia did not have the facilities to produce webbing, however, they did have a well established leather industry. The Pattern 1915 gear was a direct copy of the British Pattern 1908 webbing.

Like you I laso had difficulty at first rivetting the bottom of the pouch, however, this was solved by using a cobblers anvil. The small shoe iron is a perfect fit allowing the rivet to be set.

I'd be interested to see the article from the journal you you got the patten from. I don;t have access to this journal in Australia.

Regards,

Mario

Edited June 1, 2012 by muz303

[Campchair]

See below. [

Edited June 20, 2012 by Campchair

[Campchair]

See if you can find an old (or new) railroad spike. Locate a bench grinder, and grind (or get someone to) the head so the side flanges are flat against the square shank. Take a turn or two across the head, (the part the hammer hits) and polish it up with coarse emery cloth. 80 Grit is fine, it does not have to be prefect, just get the rough areas out. Round the sharp edges while you are at it. To use, tighten the shank in a bench vise, insert the rivet with a pair of needle-nosed pliers down into the hole at the bottom of the pouch, and slip it over the "stake". Peening the rivet is easy, as you have a solid anvil under the head. I make "Safari" type ammo pouches and I've found this homemede "stake" tool, can reach 'way down into a completed pouch and is very handy to set those copper "burrs" (Rivets). I have made up several in different widths for applications needing a rivet set at the bottom of a sewed-up pouch, and have found them to be a lifesaver. There is a type Confederate musket cap pouch that has one copper rivet at the bottom, and it was a real pain to set. Now, it's easy with this tool. Campchair