Members J Hayes Posted May 22, 2012 Author Members Report Posted May 22, 2012 Hey Whilst Troop's point about using 6/7 for the face and 4/5 for the gusset is probably sensible, I reckon you can get away with anything up to about 8oz for the gusset. DISCLAIMER: I have *zero* experience with this, I am literally new to leatherworking, and in fact I haven't even made my first project yet. Troop has made some gorgeous bags, I've made nothing so far. Then why am I so audacious to suggest the above? The reason is that I spent most of today staring at a piece of 8oz veg-tanned cowhide shoulder. I cut a prototype gusset piece to 4cm width, which is a narrow gusset for such rigid, thick leather. It will make a nice thin messenger bag. I wet-formed the leather and here is the result: On reflection I think 4cm width is too thin for a gusset piece in 8oz, but 5cm is just perfect for an 8oz leather wet-formed. Definitely at the upper limit of what's do-able though! (Also, as a side-note, I decided not to go with an all-in-one gusset piece for my design, instead opting for a three-piece gusset: side / bottom / side.) Comments welcome. Someone tell me I shouldn't jump in at the deep end with this bag I'm trying to make... Go man go!!! Nothing wrong with pushing yourself! The bag I plan on making will have 2 gussets, one on each end, the front, back and flap will be a single piece. I plan on building a wooden form with a removable piece so it won't get stuck inside the bag. Hopefully by stitching the bag around a form I will be able to keep things square and straight. Hopefully. Jeremy Quote
Members hazymat Posted May 22, 2012 Members Report Posted May 22, 2012 Go man go!!! Nothing wrong with pushing yourself! The bag I plan on making will have 2 gussets, one on each end, the front, back and flap will be a single piece. I plan on building a wooden form with a removable piece so it won't get stuck inside the bag. Hopefully by stitching the bag around a form I will be able to keep things square and straight. Hopefully. Jeremy Lovely! I saw the most gorgeous bag (more of a brief case) of the design you describe whilst walking through a lovely part of London over the weekend. I had to stop and stare. It was made by Church's Shoes (have you heard of them?) A real old-fashioned high-end designer shoemaker. I tried to look the bag up online, alas their website is rubbish and doesn't have any bags on. I remember the edges were perfect, and the form of the piece was absolutely lovely, really simple and unfussy, but really desirable. Post photos of your progress, I'm interested to see! Quote
Members J Hayes Posted May 22, 2012 Author Members Report Posted May 22, 2012 Lovely! I saw the most gorgeous bag (more of a brief case) of the design you describe whilst walking through a lovely part of London over the weekend. I had to stop and stare. It was made by Church's Shoes (have you heard of them?) A real old-fashioned high-end designer shoemaker. I tried to look the bag up online, alas their website is rubbish and doesn't have any bags on. I remember the edges were perfect, and the form of the piece was absolutely lovely, really simple and unfussy, but really desirable. Post photos of your progress, I'm interested to see! I haven't heard of Church's, but I'm probably on the wrong side of the pond for that. I saw the bag I want to build on a Website, the closer I looked at that bag the more I thought it was beautiful but a bit crude on the stitching and some of the other details I felt were overlooked. Now I am NO expert, but I do feel if I take my time and think it out carefully I will be able to do a nice job. I am at least two weeks out from starting but I will post progress. Meanwhile I'm building it step by step in my head. Jeremy Quote
Members McJeep Posted May 22, 2012 Members Report Posted May 22, 2012 For uniformity of the gusset you are forming, I would build a simple form right off the start. One piece the size and shape of the gusset, on piece to mount that to, and a female piece to clamp down over it makes a simple effective mold. Glue/screw the first piece on to the solid backer board. then once you have the leather nice and wet place it skin side down on top of the mold - use screws or clamps to hold the female piece down over it and leave it for a day. I've used this setup a couple times for small camera cases etc and it's pretty effective AND cheap ;0) Just make sure all of the wood contacting your leather is sanded smooth so as not too leave unnecessary marks on the hide. And yes, I do this with 8 oz leather. Should give you a nice stiff gusset for the case once yer done, and the lack of flexibility should help keep things in shape while stitching I think. Lookin forward to seeing it - planning one for myself as well I can take and post a quick pic of my mold if my description isn't clear - picture worth a thousand blah blah blah ;0) Quote "I gotta have more cowbell!" Cristopher Walken - SNL
Members J Hayes Posted May 22, 2012 Author Members Report Posted May 22, 2012 For uniformity of the gusset you are forming, I would build a simple form right off the start. One piece the size and shape of the gusset, on piece to mount that to, and a female piece to clamp down over it makes a simple effective mold. Glue/screw the first piece on to the solid backer board. then once you have the leather nice and wet place it skin side down on top of the mold - use screws or clamps to hold the female piece down over it and leave it for a day. I've used this setup a couple times for small camera cases etc and it's pretty effective AND cheap ;0) Just make sure all of the wood contacting your leather is sanded smooth so as not too leave unnecessary marks on the hide. And yes, I do this with 8 oz leather. Should give you a nice stiff gusset for the case once yer done, and the lack of flexibility should help keep things in shape while stitching I think. Lookin forward to seeing it - planning one for myself as well I can take and post a quick pic of my mold if my description isn't clear - picture worth a thousand blah blah blah ;0) I figure I'll build a form for the bag and use that to help form my gussets, put a lip around the bag form and press the gussets into that, hopefully the everything will line up. I have to finish a couple holsters before I can begin the bag. It is for myself so it may get pushed back, you know how that is. Jeremy Quote
Members McJeep Posted May 22, 2012 Members Report Posted May 22, 2012 It is for myself so it may get pushed back, you know how that is.Jeremy Ayup - 'cobblers kids always go barefoot Quote "I gotta have more cowbell!" Cristopher Walken - SNL
Members J Hayes Posted May 22, 2012 Author Members Report Posted May 22, 2012 [quote name=McJeep' timesta mp='1337707096' post='249079] Ayup - 'cobblers kids always go barefoot Yes sir! Paid work always goes to the front of the line! It is however a good way to get in trouble with the wife, putting paid work in front of her projects, funny though,she always seems okay with it when she gets to spend the proceeds!! Jeremy Quote
Members renegadelizard Posted September 24, 2012 Members Report Posted September 24, 2012 Hey Jeremy, How did the bag come out? Quote Havoc Holsters
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