hazymat Report post Posted June 5, 2012 (edited) Although I love Bob Park's guide "Finishing Edges" on this forum, I wonder how useful a "one-size-fits-all" approach is. (I'm not suggesting people actually use a "one-size-fits-all" approach, but I've noticed some posts on here where people say things like "the edge dye just doesn't stay on", or "the edge doesn't go shiny" and perhaps it's down to the type of leather or tanning process). For example, I recently started work on a pre-dyed leather from Tandy called the "Austin Double Shoulder". Although it's an 8oz leather and keeps its shape well, it is slightly less rigid than a bog-standard tooling leather. Apart from the fact it bends down the edge when you try to burnish with a wheel (and slightly crumples if you apply too much pressure when burnishing using canvas by hand), it just doesn't shine up as nicely, and the fibres don't become as tightly bound. Check out this comparison of Austin Double Shoulder and traditional tooling leather (same thickness), after bevel and burnish: As I'm new to this, does anyone have advice on how to vary the process to get nice looking edges? Should I just bevel, burnish as best I can, then apply gum trag and leave it there? Edited June 5, 2012 by hazymat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted June 5, 2012 I looked on Tandy and thats not veg-tanned leather. This would probably be why it doesnt work with the normal method. The pinned thread is for veg-tanned only. Im not sure you can burnish Utility or Oil tanned leather. You might have to do a rolled edge. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hazymat Report post Posted June 5, 2012 I must say I had thought it was a veg-tanned leather when I saw it in the factory! Thanks for pointing that out to me, it has been the source of much confusion as to why I couldn't get lovely edges. I may simply bevel, slick with soap, and apply edge kote. Or perhaps gum trag. I'm doing an experiment now. Thanks again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beachside Art Report post Posted November 30, 2013 Hey Hazymat, did you ever figure out how to finish edges with austin double shoulder leather?? Im in the same spot you were a year ago with it!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sylvia Report post Posted November 30, 2013 Sand, sand, sand... when it's like suede... dye it if needed... then seal with Mod Podge. That's the only thing I've found that seems to work ok. Mod Podge is flexible so it bends and gives with the leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beachside Art Report post Posted November 30, 2013 Thank you, now a couple more questions if you wouldn't mind. With the mode lodge, does it flake or split apart if the item used is bent around a lot? I'm making dog collars and i wouldn't want the mode lodge to visually crack if that makes sense? Also, I asked this on the forum but haven't found an answer yet...is this Austin Double Shoulder leather okay for something like dog collars? I wanted latigo but they only had 10-12 oz (too thick) and they suggested this. I'm not sure if they were just trying to make a sale or if it's actually alright? Durability, won't stretch, weather proof etc...do you know? I REALLY appreciate your help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites