I Have A Gum Trag Question

[olandrea]

I always just assumed the gum would be water soluble after it was dry, and need to be sealed with acrylic lacquer like resolene when using it on the back of a belt to slick down the belt or on the edge.

Then I spoke to some one and he said he had just assumed the oposite: that Gum Trag was a final finish for the edge or the back of a belt and he had never sealed it and never heard of it softening if it got wet again.

So is gum trag on edge or the back good enough for out door use on its own? Also can gum trag seal a edge dyed with Fibiengs oil dye if used on bridle leather?

Any thoughts?

[George B]

Taken from Wikipedia...

"Gum tragacanth is a viscous, odorless, tasteless, water-soluble mixture of polysaccharides obtained from sap which is drained from the root of the plant and dried. The gum seeps from the plant in twisted ribbons or flakes which can be powdered. It absorbs water to become a gel, which can be stirred into a paste. The gum is used in vegetable-tanned leatherworking as an edge slicking and burnishing compound, and is occasionally used as a stiffener in textiles."

When wet forming holsters some of it will wash out. I use it on English bridle with no difference, but I also seal my edges after burnishing with bees wax and have had no problems with it withstanding the elements.

[katsass]

I always just assumed the gum would be water soluble after it was dry, and need to be sealed with acrylic lacquer like resolene when using it on the back of a belt to slick down the belt or on the edge.

Then I spoke to some one and he said he had just assumed the oposite: that Gum Trag was a final finish for the edge or the back of a belt and he had never sealed it and never heard of it softening if it got wet again.

So is gum trag on edge or the back good enough for out door use on its own? Also can gum trag seal a edge dyed with Fibiengs oil dye if used on bridle leather?

Any thoughts?

FWIW from the grump: I don't like or use gum trag. To me it's nasty stuff, on a par with Edge Coat.. I learned a loooong time ago to burnish my edges with just a smidge of water (actually the old man that taught me always licked his edges and then went to burnishing) I use a slightly damp sponge now. Burnish, dry, sand with very fine sandpaper if necessary. Dye, (if wanted) and re-burnish with a touch of moisture and glycerin soap, dry and apply a finish. Mike

Edited June 26, 2012 by katsass

[Sylvia]

(actually the old man that taught me always licked his edges and then went to burnishing) I use a slightly damp sponge now. Burnish, dry, sand with very fine sandpaper if necessary. Dye, (if wanted) and re-burnish with a touch of moisture and glycerin soap, dry and apply a finish. Mike

LOL Mike, you old edge licker, you. ha!

I've used Gum-T and the same method Mike uses. I sand, dampen, burnish, dry sand, dye and reburnish with glycerin soap, then either beeswax or finish.

I like Gum-T okay, for slicking the backs of belts but I would always seal them. And you have to make sure that nothing gets on the front of your project. I've sort of moved away from it for most things because I can't stand the smell of the stuff. (smells like pinesol to me, Yuck!)

[katsass]

LOL Mike, you old edge licker, you. ha!

I've used Gum-T and the same method Mike uses. I sand, dampen, burnish, dry sand, dye and reburnish with glycerin soap, then either beeswax or finish.

I like Gum-T okay, for slicking the backs of belts but I would always seal them. And you have to make sure that nothing gets on the front of your project. I've sort of moved away from it for most things because I can't stand the smell of the stuff. (smells like pinesol to me, Yuck!)

Well Sylvia, I was about 17 at the time, and my teacher was a WWI cavalry soldier. He swore that he could tell the quality of the leather from the taste. It finally dawned on me that human saliva was not a magic substance and started to use a damp sponge. Didn't care much for the taste either. Mike

Edited June 26, 2012 by katsass

[olandrea]

I need this info because I have to cover the flesh side (after I put it through my leather splitter) of a shoulder strap for a fly rod case that will be from time to time exposed to the elements. Normally I could use some wax but in warm temperature that could let marks on the clothes.

Thanks Olaf

[Sylvia]

I need this info because I have to cover the flesh side (after I put it through my leather splitter) of a shoulder strap for a fly rod case that will be from time to time exposed to the elements. Normally I could use some wax but in warm temperature that could let marks on the clothes.

Thanks Olaf

Gum T can act as a mild resist but it is NOT water proof. If you use to to slick the back... dye first, then Gum T.... then seal with Resolene or at the very least Tandy's Super Shene.