Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted

Try using a fine point Sharpie to colour the inside of the stamped letters. Don't go into the impression - just the raised inside bit. It works for me!

Ray

Thanks, Ray. That sounds like an easy approach. We will try that one too.

  • 8 months later...
  • Members
Posted

I used to light up a candle then pass the tool/letter close over the flame so as to carbon up the deepest part of the tool/letter then emboss. You should experiment with this and see for yourself, it works well.

Cheers :)

Rowdy

  • Moderator
Posted

I have done a lot of orders that have used that letter set. I will give Ray's suggestion of Sharpies a hearty second. However, I find more control with the ultra fine point Sharpies in the tight spots and do the impressions of the letters themselves. In a pinch I use regular old find 'em at any office supply stores Pentel EnerGel 0.7 mm ball point pens and they stay pretty well. You can also outline the other type of stamped letters with them and fill with fine point Sharpies or dye and brush.

Bruce Johnson

Malachi 4:2

"the windshield's bigger than the mirror, somewhere west of Laramie" - Dave Stamey

Vintage Refurbished And Selected New Leather Tools For Sale - www.brucejohnsonleather.com

  • Members
Posted

IMG_20130322_234640_192_zpsef434594.jpg

This is probably not the best pic to use for showing the resist on the lettering but I think you can see how dark it is in the lower part of the lettering. I use resist on the raised part of the letters. I use about 2-3 coats of resolene to get this turn out. I have a habbit of using Med Brown Antique Gel from Tandy as a dye itself because I LOVE the shade of brown. So I used the resolene on all the lighter areas on the entire mug, make sure it is completely dry (atleast 24 hours), I use a wool pad to apply the gel over the entire mug, and then a moist paper towel to wipe off areas I have resisted. Infact I use the paper towl over the entire area just to slightly lighten/even out the gel completely.

LoL my point that I forgot was.....You can resist the entire project to keep it lighter in color as are my gears and lettering and then use the med brown antique gel over the entire project. The gel will seep into any tooling/deeper spots on the leather like in my gears shown above. Most important thing is to be patient enough to let all your coats of resist dry.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...