Members Jarhead84 Posted July 26, 2012 Author Members Report Posted July 26, 2012 Try using a fine point Sharpie to colour the inside of the stamped letters. Don't go into the impression - just the raised inside bit. It works for me! Ray Thanks, Ray. That sounds like an easy approach. We will try that one too. Quote
Members Rowdy Gates Posted April 14, 2013 Members Report Posted April 14, 2013 I used to light up a candle then pass the tool/letter close over the flame so as to carbon up the deepest part of the tool/letter then emboss. You should experiment with this and see for yourself, it works well. Cheers Rowdy Quote
Moderator bruce johnson Posted April 14, 2013 Moderator Report Posted April 14, 2013 I have done a lot of orders that have used that letter set. I will give Ray's suggestion of Sharpies a hearty second. However, I find more control with the ultra fine point Sharpies in the tight spots and do the impressions of the letters themselves. In a pinch I use regular old find 'em at any office supply stores Pentel EnerGel 0.7 mm ball point pens and they stay pretty well. You can also outline the other type of stamped letters with them and fill with fine point Sharpies or dye and brush. Quote Bruce Johnson Malachi 4:2 "the windshield's bigger than the mirror, somewhere west of Laramie" - Dave Stamey Vintage Refurbished And Selected New Leather Tools For Sale - www.brucejohnsonleather.com
Members ReneeCanady Posted April 14, 2013 Members Report Posted April 14, 2013 This is probably not the best pic to use for showing the resist on the lettering but I think you can see how dark it is in the lower part of the lettering. I use resist on the raised part of the letters. I use about 2-3 coats of resolene to get this turn out. I have a habbit of using Med Brown Antique Gel from Tandy as a dye itself because I LOVE the shade of brown. So I used the resolene on all the lighter areas on the entire mug, make sure it is completely dry (atleast 24 hours), I use a wool pad to apply the gel over the entire mug, and then a moist paper towel to wipe off areas I have resisted. Infact I use the paper towl over the entire area just to slightly lighten/even out the gel completely. LoL my point that I forgot was.....You can resist the entire project to keep it lighter in color as are my gears and lettering and then use the med brown antique gel over the entire project. The gel will seep into any tooling/deeper spots on the leather like in my gears shown above. Most important thing is to be patient enough to let all your coats of resist dry. Quote www.facebook.com/alteredleather
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