Stitch Hole Spacing And Nylon Thread Size Logic

[TwinOaks]

Somewhere floating around the internet is a nice little video showing a couple of elderly ladies hand stitching English bridles. Sure they've got experience, and the way they do it is punch two holes feed both needles, repeat. The speed at which they do this is very fast, covering about a linear foot of stitching in just a few minutes (under 5 minutes) and they're working in the 6-8 spi range. Stick, stick, stitch.....

As far as not glueing....well, whatever brand you used wasn't suitable for leather, and if it's glued (bonded) and stitched, it's less likely to come apart....so you won't have to do so much in customer repairs. I use contact cement which is both flexible and waterproof when dry....and it's one of the ones I mentioned as being stronger than the leather fibers. I guess I view it as "Make it so it doesn't come apart" instead of "make it easy to repair when it DOES come apart". That whole 'prevent the problem in the first place' thing. Gluing the the seams also means it isn't going to move while you're stitching it.

Depending on the source of the linen thread, I've had it test anywhere from 15 - 30lbs tensile strength for ~138 sized thread. Nylon is higher. And if you're expecting anyone to be putting that much force on your stitches, you should be using latigo not designer leather. If you're using an analine tanned leather - bag/chap/garment - you aren't going to get fingernail marks in it anyway.

I'd REALLY like to know what kind of leather you're using so I can know what can be considered "delicate" at 9/10oz.....then avoid it.

And one last thing....Katsass, I believe, was offering his opinion (IMO means "In My Opinion), which is based on over 30 years of experience working with leather. To me it wasn't assuming you don't know how to stitch, it was telling you that an awl and saddle stitching is superior to using a chisel. But, you have your way, he has his. Let us know how your way is working out after 30 years.

[joe h]

6spi for 12" at 5min? including the time to move the project in and out of the horse clamp? consistent? for a few hours? without butchering the material or uneven stitch lines?

Where are they because i want to offer them a job, oh but wait, with speeds like that they must be sitting on a leather stitching empire.

There is so much BAD, MISLEADING, and just out right wrong information in this industry. Hence the AWL thing the old timers like to suggest. For craftwork, OK, punching is better - for commercial, wanting to get paid and making designs that truly standout and last forever, please!

Glue - but the little black word thingys on the can said f-o-r L-e-a-t-h-e-r and w-a-t-e-r-p-r-o-o-f - im sure the hot sun and then rain had something to do with destabilizing the chemicals.

Glue will NOT keep stitch from coming apart, at best it keeps the seem closed and looks good. even the most experienced old ladies, during production will make mistakes and have to restitch. if glued, that material is wasted.

what is "designer leather?" can you order that from a tannery like that? i never said "designer leather" or that i use Latigo.

i said i stitch into "chrome leather 4/5 stitched with heavier 9/10 bridle and harness leather" which is already drummed dyed. if you haven't in all these experienced years worked with "delicate" 9/10 USA steer bridle or harness leather that scratches and dents with a finger nail then your advise should not be trusted from the newcomers trying to learn to work with leather and SELL IT TO A CUSTOMER that demands professional work for their payment. This is NOT natural tooling leather where you could hide your clamp marks, scratches finger oils, and other movements of the leather that on some level absorb into the hide. When a customer receives a leather product, its hard enough to get them to understand the natural characteristics of the hide. So when i say "delicate" i don't mean it in a "designer leather", whatever that is, sense. "delicate" to picking up a leather craftsman's touches.

[TwinOaks]

This thread began by asking for advice on stitch size and spacing, and I believe that has been answered. At this point it's turning into an argument, so stick a fork in it......it's done.