Tippmann Boss

[uscglechief]

When using my boss the thread seems to from time to time, twist. The twist itself will run up along the machine, while it doesn't appear to affect the product it does bother me as I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Has/does this happen to others? and if so how did you correct it? I've also had troubles with needle or thread skip, not sure of the proper term, was happening about every other stitch so I adjusted the needle scarf and that helped. My biggest issue now is making sure the stitch depth is set accurately turning that knob just doesn't seem to do anything.

Sorry this post is part question and part rant, guess its that love hate relationship with the Boss. I will admit I wasn't hand sewing long before I bought this machine second hand from a guy in Oregon, I followed the instructions, best I could anyway during the set and like others here find myself adjusting and fine tuning each time I use it....guess thats actually a good thing.

Any tips or advice would be appreciated.

[mlapaglia]

I hope I do not jinx it but Once I got my Boss tension set I have not had to change it. I hve sewn a 5/6 single layer, 8/9 single and double layer with black and white thread. I still have not had to adjust the tension. The stitch length needs adjusting depending on the thickness but the tension seems to be solid and stable. Im sure I am a lucky one but once you get the tension adjustments figured out its pretty easy to set it up for new leather thickness or thread.

As for the material quide I bought one. I use it on belts but not on holsters. It has its uses. NEVER NEVER remove the material guide and put the mounting screw back in the hole on the Boss without the guide. It will lock up the Boss solid. Guess how I know?

Edited July 26, 2012 by mlapaglia

[Iron Pounder]

I hope I do not jinx it but Once I got my Boss tension set I have not had to change it. I hve sewn a 5/6 single layer, 8/9 single and double layer with black and white thread. I still have not had to adjust the tension. The stitch length needs adjusting depending on the thickness but the tension seems to be solid and stable. Im sure I am a lucky one but once you get the tension adjustments figured out its pretty easy to set it up for new leather thickness or thread.

As for the material quide I bought one. I use it on belts but not on holsters. It has its uses. NEVER NEVER remove the material guide and put the mounting screw back in the hole on the Boss without the guide. It will lock up the Boss solid. Guess how I know?

Do you wrap the secondary and primary tension or just the primary?

[mlapaglia]

I wrap both. Then set them to the starting point that Tippman says. At that point I only adjusted the main tension nut.

[Iron Pounder]

First few runs of test stitches came out great. I used a full wrap around both tensioners and factory base settings as suggested by others. I like the look I get when I loock the stitch like I do with my 111w155. This is how I do it... I have heard others say they do it at least close to this as well. I sew a test run on a scrap of same weights I will be sewing then take the length of 3 total and start that far in from where you want the first stitch to be and sew towards the first stitch location, with the needle down in the hole of where the first stitch will be spin the leather 180 degrees and sew as normal putting the next two stitches in the same holes you made locking the stitch. I've not had any problem with doing it like this and with thinner thread (69 and 138) it doesn't stand out much.

I'm not completely understanding the way Tippmann says to lock the stitch I guess. When I do it the way I understand them telling to do it I have a loop on the bottom and it looks bulky in general on the top as well. I would like to come up with a way to lock and have it look nice without turning the leather.

One of the disadvantages of a smller throat machine I guess but there is no way I can turn one of the things I would like to sew. Would things work out ok if I started stitching just one stitch and then pulled it back and stitched that same stitch again and ran out like normal from there? My thinking is I wouldn't get that loop on the bottom then. I understand the start will never look as good as hand stitching but just trying to get it as good as I can.

Most of the things I want to sew with this machine can have the sew pattern adapted to be able to sew in a circle and lock the stitch by sewing back over the first stitches when I complete the circle but everything.

[JRodz]

Ironpounder,Depending on what I'm sewing, sometimes I just leave extra thread at the start and finish to tie it off by hand just like I would if I was stitching by hand. If it is a bigger item, then I will finish it off by getting both threads on the back side, form a square knot and work it into the needle hole, cut the thread close, and melt edges. I use a microtorch, in part because I had some at work, but also because the tip is very precise and I melt the edges without burning anything else.

There are some old posts on this site describing the process in more detail, this site is where I learned that trick/tip.

[Iron Pounder]

I tried to search. Do you have a link or know what wording I need to search for? I like the idea of not having a double stitch at all if possible.

[JRodz]

Ironpounder,

Here are some of the posts I was referring to. Hope they help.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=34997&st=0&p=216930&hl=backstitching&fromsearch=1entry216930

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=38875&st=0&p=241408&hl=backstitching&fromsearch=1entry241408

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=38875&st=0&p=241408&hl=backstitching&fromsearch=1entry241408

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7006&st=0

[Iron Pounder]

Thank you for the links, that was exactly what I needed. I do have another issue. How much pull should be on the bobbin thread? It seems very hard to pull and for whatever reason it seems to be too tight based on looking at the stitch at times and others times looks fine. I guess it may be right on the edge of either too much bobbin tension or not enough top tension. So which should I change, top or bottom?

I think I remember seeing a guy tightening up both a bit at a time but it sure does seem very hard to pull out any bobbin thread. This is still the factory bobbin from new and whatever they have in it.

[JRodz]

It should not be hard to pull thread from the bobbin, you should feel a light drag but it should pull out smooth and easy. Generally speaking, the bobbin tension isn't adjusted very often, balancing is done with the top tension.