swrmacmullin Report post Posted August 2, 2012 Im wondering how all you guys get even coats with dye? Whenever i dye my leather i find it comes out somewhat patchy.. any tips would be appreciated! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mcn Report post Posted August 3, 2012 I had the same problem with spirit dyes, if that is what you are using. So I started staying away from them for large projects and used neatsfoot or olive oil with antiques. Last couple things I used Eco Flo waterstains and really liked the results. Will Ghormley http://www.willghormley-maker.com/index.html has a good piece about them. I didn't answer your question but I hope the alternatives help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted August 3, 2012 if you want smooth even dye apply it with an airbrush. Its the only way that have see it work well every time Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swrmacmullin Report post Posted August 3, 2012 Thanks guys, i was debating about the aitrbrush, but it looks like thats the only option Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted August 3, 2012 Thanks guys, i was debating about the aitrbrush, but it looks like thats the only option There's a few things I've done to get it "more" even without an airbrush (oil first, 50/50, etc...), but the airbrush is your best bet for larger pieces. It's also the quickest, and since time is money... Don't know what you have available for discount tool outlets, but I got a "good for the job" Harbor Freight dual action deluxe and an aircompressor for $100 to get me started. Paid for itself in the first job. Now I can keep my timeline down, which allows more people to order from me because the cost is lower. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Glendon Report post Posted August 4, 2012 The more dying I do, the more I figure out that you need to figure out what type of dye works for your technique. I can pretty much whip on spirit dyes and not think about it too much, and they come out looking the way I expect. Water based dyes on the other hand always splotch on me. Spirit dyes seem to work best when you get heavy handed with it. Really glob it on and then wipe it back off. One or two applications will do it. Water based on the other hand, less is more. Lite coats, and a lot of them seems to work best. In ether case, large applicator, dobber, sponge, cloth, wool. Do not try to paint it on. You can paint with acrylics. You can not paint with leather dyes. It just will not come out even using a brush. Cover the most area as quick as you can without rushing. after the whole project is covered you can go back and touch up. Then once the whole thing has color, go back over it with a very thin coat, just enough for the entire project to look wet again. It should look nice and even at that point. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chavez Report post Posted August 4, 2012 I remember reading in one of the stohlman books that you need at least 3 applications of dye if applying with a dauber. First layer only covers the surface, second penetrates the grain, third goes into flesh. Make sure you dilute the dye with lots of isopropyl (50/50 at least) and you apply a lot of dye (i.e. don't let your dauber dry up) I usually coat each piece in the following way: 1 layer top-to-bottom; 1 layer left-to-right; 1 layer diagonally. Same pattern with oiling the piece after the dye dries. This will give you a very nice dye pattern - it won't be as even as if you dip dye it but it will look more natural (imho). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted August 5, 2012 (edited) From the grumpy old guy: For manual application of dye (Dauber, foam brush, etc) Chavez has it down pretty well, except that with the solvent based dyes it should be Denatured Alcohol. Those types of dyes can be cut quite a bit with the stuff. I've gone as far as 30/1 (Denatured Alcohol to dye), but multiple coats at 45 to 90 degrees will cover best. Allow plenty of drying time after the last coat. Mike. Edited August 5, 2012 by katsass Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoubleC Report post Posted August 5, 2012 Well you guys taught me something new. I never quit learning here no matter how many times I think I've read everything. Cheryl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Glendon Report post Posted August 5, 2012 Well you guys taught me something new. I never quit learning here no matter how many times I think I've read everything. Cheryl That's why I love this place. Always a new trick popping up, either from a new guy playing techniques, or the old guard debating finer points. I may have to track down a seller of denatured alcohol. I've been using Iso because its just easier to find in the city, but one of the hardware stores probobly has denatured on the shelf. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoubleC Report post Posted August 5, 2012 I use all water based so I haven't had to worry about that. But I put mine on with a sponge straight down the strap. And that's why I'm not getting good results. Just need to think of this like rolling paint, LOL. I don't know about denatured, pharmacies only sell the iso? OH JEEZE Glendon, that just gave me an idea. I have those small sponge type rollers, so I may try one of those with light coats on the next project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Glendon Report post Posted August 6, 2012 Those smaller trim rollers? That's an idea to try. As far as alcohols go, denatured alcohol is ethyl (drinking alcohol) with poisons added to make it unsafe for humans. You can't use it as an antiseptic, and you can't use it to clean. So it's useless as anything except a fuel or chemical thinner. So you won't find it in drug stores. Paint stores, hardware stores, outdoor suppliers, those kinds of places is where you can find it. I grew up in a more rural area where a lot of places do carry it, but in the middle of a bigger city, its just easier to go into any drug store and get rubbing alcohol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted August 6, 2012 An additional piece of info, denatured alcohol is dry, no oils added. Rubbing alcohol has oils added. So for leather, the bit of oil shouldn't be a problem since we need to add some back after dying. For some other applications, oil is a problem so they say to use denatured alcohol. Methal hydrate can be used too. From Wikipedia Methanol, also known as methyl alcohol, wood alcohol, wood naphtha or wood spirits, is a chemical with the formula CH3OH (often abbreviated MeOH). It is the simplest alcohol, and is a light, volatile, colorless, flammable liquid with a distinctive odor very similar to, but slightly sweeter than, ethanol (drinking alcohol).[4] At room temperature, it is a polar liquid, and is used as an antifreeze, solvent, fuel, and as a denaturant for ethanol. Also from wikipedia Denatured alcohol or methylated spirits is ethanol that has additives to make it undrinkable (poisonous), to prevent human consumption. In some cases it is also dyed. Denatured alcohol is used as a solvent and as fuel for spirit burners and camping stoves. Because of the diversity of industrial uses for denatured alcohol, hundreds of additives and denaturing methods have been used. The main additive has traditionally been 10% methanol, giving rise to the term "methylated spirit." Other typical additives include isopropyl alcohol, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone,methyl isobutyl ketone, and denatonium.[1] CTG Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted August 7, 2012 Denatured alcohol is carried at Walmart, Kmart, Lowes, Home Depot, local hardware stores, it is in the painting section where you would find paint thinner, etc. Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BevJones Report post Posted August 29, 2012 Airbrush is best for large pieces, otherwise I like Fiebings oil dyes and use a trimmed pad of sheeps wool. I alsways get streaks and blotches when I use daubers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites