IngleGunLeather Report post Posted August 22, 2012 Hello everyone. So, I gotta order for an IWB (another first) and below are photos of the mock-up from scrap leather. One thing I noticed when I put it on was that maybe the clip cover (the grain side) was a little too thick (6/7 oz HO). I'm thinking this because I felt like the clip should've clamped down a little more snug over the belt. Now I tried this with a standard off the shelf belt (maybe 7 oz thickness). So, does anyone on here build enough of these to make a recommendation on what thickness leather I should use for the cover? I'm thinking 4/5 HO? The holster itself is also cut from 6/7 oz HO, rough side out. And yes, this is for a lefty. Disclamer: These pictures are not a final production piece. The stitching sucks, it's not dyed, and the edges haven't edged, dyed, or burnished. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
renegadelizard Report post Posted August 22, 2012 Hello everyone. So, I gotta order for an IWB (another first) and below are photos of the mock-up from scrap leather. One thing I noticed when I put it on was that maybe the clip cover (the grain side) was a little too thick (6/7 oz HO). I'm thinking this because I felt like the clip should've clamped down a little more snug over the belt. Now I tried this with a standard off the shelf belt (maybe 7 oz thickness). So, does anyone on here build enough of these to make a recommendation on what thickness leather I should use for the cover? I'm thinking 4/5 HO? The holster itself is also cut from 6/7 oz HO, rough side out. And yes, this is for a lefty. Disclamer: These pictures are not a final production piece. The stitching sucks, it's not dyed, and the edges haven't edged, dyed, or burnished. I use a large reinforcement piece on top of the grain out side and integrate the clip into that, i usually use hore butt for that piece....the horse i get isnt real consistant in thickness, but i try to cut the piece out of the 4-5 ounce sections...horehide is great for this as it is thinner but very stiff... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Go2Tex Report post Posted August 22, 2012 I make my clip holder as thin as possible and still thick enough to not tear out. So, about 3-4oz. Comfort and reholstering is secondary and really, in the major scheme of things, not even much of a consideration to most average John Q's out there. But, if reholstering is important, Kydex IWB holsters are hard to beat and will likely put us leather guys out of the IWB holster business. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted August 22, 2012 Thanks for the input. Good news is that I brought the holster in today for the customer for final approval and he's good to go. However, I am going to drop down a thickness for the clip cover. It'll also save some of my 6/7 oz. Thanks again! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mojoewrkn Report post Posted August 22, 2012 I have a question, does the fastener you used go through just the outer piece of leather? I assume that it does so that there is no metal in contact with the gun. If so what type of fastener did you use? I was trying to make a cell phone holder for myself but I dont have any fastener that will fit through the hole on the belt clip and that is short enough to use with 6 oz leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Go2Tex Report post Posted August 22, 2012 I have a question, does the fastener you used go through just the outer piece of leather? I assume that it does so that there is no metal in contact with the gun. If so what type of fastener did you use? I was trying to make a cell phone holder for myself but I dont have any fastener that will fit through the hole on the belt clip and that is short enough to use with 6 oz leather. You can always just drill out the hole and cut down the rivet. I use tubular rivets and I'm always having to cut them down to fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted August 23, 2012 I have a question, does the fastener you used go through just the outer piece of leather? I assume that it does so that there is no metal in contact with the gun. If so what type of fastener did you use? I was trying to make a cell phone holder for myself but I dont have any fastener that will fit through the hole on the belt clip and that is short enough to use with 6 oz leather. Yes, the rivet and the clip are between the two layers of leather. And you are correct. At no time do I want metal/metal contact on my holsters. I used the double cap rivets that Tandy sells which is great for two 6oz layers. They also have an x-small size. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted August 23, 2012 You can always just drill out the hole and cut down the rivet. I use tubular rivets and I'm always having to cut them down to fit. I forget where I saw this, but now that you are mentioning it, I remember seeing someone slide the rivet over a scratch awl or something similar and cut the length down with a pair of wire cutters (dykes). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted August 23, 2012 (edited) I use 4/5 oz for the cover piece I put the clip in Rivet the clip to the cover and sew the cover to the holster. No metal to metal and the clip holds tight to a 1/4" gun belt. If making a tuckable IWB I use 2 pieces of 4/5 to make a pocket and just sew the end of the pocket to the holster. The long sides of the pocket are sewn together with only the end attached to the front of the holster. If you have any concerns about the holding power of the clip look at this one. It's a little longer but strong enough to hold a full size 1911 on a belt. Edited August 23, 2012 by mlapaglia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mojoewrkn Report post Posted August 23, 2012 I was trying to use a chicago screw, I guess rivets would work better. I will give it a try, thanks! I use 4/5 oz for the cover piece I put the clip in Rivet the clip to the cover and sew the cover to the holster. No metal to metal and the clip holds tight to a 1/4" gun belt. If making a tuckable IWB I use 2 pieces of 4/5 to make a pocket and just sew the end of the pocket to the holster. The long sides of the pocket are sewn together with only the end attached to the front of the holster. If you have any concerns about the holding power of the clip look at this one. It's a little longer but strong enough to hold a full size 1911 on a belt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted August 23, 2012 1345720355[/url]' post='261485']I was trying to use a chicago screw, I guess rivets would work better. I will give it a try, thanks! If you are good at them copper rivets hook great. But regular rivets are easier to set. Just make sure they are installed correctly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Go2Tex Report post Posted August 23, 2012 If you are good at them copper rivets hook great. But regular rivets are easier to set. Just make sure they are installed correctly. Copper rivets are much stronger, but for this application, a bit of an overkill. The rivet is just to keep the clip from sliding out of the holder. Not much stress on it. But, I have all but quit using those jiffy rivets. They come off way too easy. Tubular rivets with caps are the way to go if both sides are visible. Otherwise, just pound them out flat on the back after using the setter to split them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted August 23, 2012 Copper rivets are much stronger, but for this application, a bit of an overkill. The rivet is just to keep the clip from sliding out of the holder. Not much stress on it. But, I have all but quit using those jiffy rivets. They come off way too easy. Tubular rivets with caps are the way to go if both sides are visible. Otherwise, just pound them out flat on the back after using the setter to split them. I agree about the over kill but in my opinion they just look better on a black holster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Go2Tex Report post Posted August 24, 2012 I agree about the over kill but in my opinion they just look better on a black holster. Brass rivets look even better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted August 26, 2012 (edited) Went ahead and used 4/5 oz HO for the cover on the final product. I also learned that I need to order a size 0 bissonette edger for the 4/5 oz. With the exception of a couple long stitches in the turns, I'm satisfied with the product. Edited August 26, 2012 by CountryTrash Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D Fingers Report post Posted August 27, 2012 (edited) 1345643721[/url]' post='261373']I make my clip holder as thin as possible and still thick enough to not tear out. So, about 3-4oz. Comfort and reholstering is secondary and really, in the major scheme of things, not even much of a consideration to most average John Q's out there. But, if reholstering is important, Kydex IWB holsters are hard to beat and will likely put us leather guys out of the IWB holster business. Go2Tex I respectfully disagree. Kydex is for military and law enforcement, in which the pistol is an every day tool and there is no hope of maintaining a decent condition for the pistol. Private owners usually want to maintain the highest possible condition of the finish of their pistols over the long term. This is the advantage leather has over kydex/injected plastic. 1 day in kydex is equal to 100 days in leather as far as wear to the finish of a gun, in my humble opinion and empirical experience. This of course is the point that we must make to our customers and the market generally as custom leather holster makers. This is all to say that I don't think leather IWB's are going anywhere. Edited August 27, 2012 by D Fingers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted August 27, 2012 (edited) Leather will remain just has it always has. Want the best in a car seat? you get leather. Want a great and classic couch, people get leather. A jacket that speaks for it's self, leather again. Kydex will suit those that buy off the rack. Those that want something that meets their needs and wants will still go for leather. I can see it existing along side of leather for a while but it will never replace leather as the holster material of choice. As for reholstering. I originally made my IWBs without a reenforcement piece to hold it open. My feeling that a regular person would not need to re-holster normally. Boy was I wrong. First time I wore mine out for the day I had to take it out of the holster 3 times. Once to adjust the holster and twice due to places that did not allow hand guns. I learned quickly that the ability to re-holster one handed was not just for tactical situations. From that point on all my IWB holsters have the ability to re-holster one handed. That's my opinion anyway. Edited August 27, 2012 by mlapaglia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
renegadelizard Report post Posted August 27, 2012 Went ahead and used 4/5 oz HO for the cover on the final product. I also learned that I need to order a size 0 bissonette edger for the 4/5 oz. With the exception of a couple long stitches in the turns, I'm satisfied with the product. I think it looks pretty dang good...give the horse hide a try next time...12 bucks for the but...you can cut a lot of reinforcement pieces out of one and my customers like the idea of something different...added value without added cost... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites