Dye Problems

[floyd]

Let me start off by saying that I am relatively new to leather-working, and this site has truly been an inspiration. That being said, I'm probably posting my question in the wrong area, or it has been answered earlier....but here goes.

Most of the stuff I make is just oiled, no dye. I recently made a knife sheath for a friend of mine and dyed it with Eco Flo dark chocolate brown. After setting for a couple of days, the dye would rub off with just a tiny bit of moisture. Since I'm deployed to Afghanistan, and it's summertime, and sweating is definitely an issue.....What can I use to "set" the dye and keep it from rubbing off?

Thanks,

Floyd

[Tzalabak]

Did you use any product to finish it after dying? You need something that will keep water from soaking in. Acrylic Resolene works well.

You need to put a finish over it.

[Frank]

Floyd,

First of all, welcome to the forum and stay safe. I've been where you are at and I know how warm it can get. Generally speaking, you will need to add a top coat finish to the leather. I have never used Eco-Flo so I do not know what is best to use on that. I'm sure Tandy has their own top coat to be used with the Eco-Flo products. Be sure to buff the dyed leather vigorously after it has dried but before adding a top coat. This will get any of the residual dye off the surface. I personally use Fiebings oil dyes and it depends on what I am working on as to what finish I use. I use either Fiebings Bag Kote, Acrylic Resolene, Tan Kote, or Leather Balm with Atom Wax. No matter what you use, with that much heat and sweat, you will always have some rub off. Though not as bad as what you are experiencing currently without a top coat.

Frank

Edited August 24, 2012 by Frank

[Tzalabak]

Also: Did you buff the item really well with a soft cloth after the dye dried? Doing that can help pull a lot of the excess pigment off of the surface of the item (depending out how much excess there is). With the standard Eco-Flo stuff, that will be a pretty decent amount. Afterwards you will still need to apply a finish, though.

The type of dye or stain you use can make a big difference. Using the Professional Waterstain line of products from Tandy usually results in a more waterfast color, as will a lot of the different Fiebings products. The standard Eco-Flo dyes and stains aren't usually considering really the best for...well...anything, heh.

[TwinOaks]

I just wrote a little on this subject in the topic "rub off rub off rub off", but it's also very well covered here. You need to remove excess or residual dye particles and seal the leather.......what they said ^^^^^^^^^^^. Also....Eco-Flo is water based, so anytime it gets wet you are reintroducing the base solvent do the dried dye. The pro water stain is a pigment and liquid wax emulsification. If you have children, you may be familiar with "Crayon on drywall"......it's like that.

[PutnamLeather]

Hey everybody. You said you have been using oil on your gear? Along with what every one else said oil and water arnt friends so the oil will have to be applied after the eco flow has dried and been buffed. Also the eco flow will dye more evenly if the leather is slightly damp when it's applied, not really damp but more like almost dry after casing and tooling. Then after it's mosley dry from dying buff with a damp clean soft cloth, then let dry for 4 to 8 hours, then use the oil. At least thats how I've learned to do it, mostly through trial and error.

[floyd]

Thanks for all the help. I'm so new at this....so if I got this right,

1. tool

2. dye

3. buff

4. seal

5. oil

I hope I have this in the right order, and acrylic dyes are recommended?

One day I will be able to generate products like I see on this forum. You guys (and gals) do awesome work.

[PutnamLeather]

Oil then seal.

[Tzalabak]

And sometimes buff again after oiling. Then buff after finishing (according the the finish you use), it helps either bring out the shine of some finishes, or give a nice mellow finish to others.