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About Frank

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  • Birthday 06/08/1977

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    Milwaukee, Wisconsin

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
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    Saddles, Cowboy Gear, Holsters, just about any leatherwork
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  1. Thanks again. As far as the stamp on the sheath and holster, that is a Barry King Sea shell stamp without the optional filler stamp. As far as the western style shoulder holsters, yes they are my own pattern. I used and modified the top shoulder strap and the lacing hole pattern from Al Stohlman's How To Make Holsters. The M3 Tanker style is close to the original, I just made the straps wider, added a sliding shoulder patch, and used all Sam Browne Studs instead of snaps. The double 1911 Shoulder rig (holster pattern itself) was given to me by Ray Cory who used to own Lobo Gunleather.
  2. Thanks everyone. I do very much appreciate it. As far as the finish coat, 99% of the time, I use Fiebing's Bag Kote. Bag Kote produces the nicest looking finish IMO. If I need a tougher finish and a resist, then I use Fiebing's Tan Kote. The coin business card holster was a little tricky. If I remember correctly, the center hole on the rosette was 2 punch sizes smaller than the edge of the coin. This gives enough "meat" to stitch and trap the coin in there. I think the stitch line was about an 1/8 inch from the inside edge. Scribe the stitch line with a dividers, then mark your stitch holes. Hand punch the holes in the rosette, then lay the rosette on the project and transfer the markings over to the project then punch those holes (be sure to lightly mark the top stitch hole on the rosette, so you know where to line it up). Start stitching in the middle on either the left or right side, depending on you, and stitch down and around the bottom to the other side. When the stitching is less than half way done, slide a flat bone folder inside the rosette to stretch it out a bit, right up to the stitching. Slide the coin in and push it in there hard to seat it up against the stitching, but make sure you have it centered. They can be a bugger to turn inside the rosette. Then start stitching the rest of the way. It just takes patience.
  3. Thanks everyone. I do appreciate it. I just can't believe how time has gotten away from me. I've been featured in so many magazine articles the last 2 years that even I can't fathom it. Gary, the backgrounder that I used on both of those holsters is: Craftool Co. USA 104
  4. Hey all, It's been about 4 years since I last logged on here. I'm glad to see the site still getting good use. I've just been too busy to sit down and read. Anyways, no I've not "stepped on a rainbow". I am still around and still kicking. Here are just a few highlights of the past 4 years.
  5. All of those back issues you are referring to, are printed into one continuous magazine from LCSJ. They also include the patterns. If you contact them to renew your subscription, you can get that as an extra $40.00 option.
  6. Thanks guys. After one customer requested a SD Myres type jockstrap holster, I started to really like the style of them. I had never seen a 1911 jockstrap holster before so I decided to come up with a pattern for one. I think this one is a keeper.
  7. Thanks very much. The Mexican loop for the Schofield was requested by the customer to have a mostly covered trigger guard. I really like the looks of it as well.
  8. It has every year for quite some time.
  9. Thanks everyone. Merry Christmas and/or Happy Holidays to you all!
  10. Thanks Joel, I appreciate it. A Merry Christmas to you as well. Those cartridge loops are woven. I use English bridle leather cut into 1" strips and use a 1" bag punch to knock out the slots. I just weave them in and out and use a half round punch for the ends and rivet the ends in place. This style was more popular than sewn cartridge loops in the 1800's. In my opinion, they are stronger than sewn loops and a lot easier to replace if one breaks. You just can't fit as many woven loops on a belt as you can sewn ones. To me though, 20-25 extra cartridges are heavy enough! Frank
  11. Thanks very much. I have had several people ask me about that color. I use all Wickett & Craig drum dyed leathers and finish them all the same. That one is the brown skirting, oiled and finished with Fiebing's Bag Kote. The Bag Kote really darkens the leather and brings out a very rich color. I don't think I'll ever change the way I finish them since I really like the results. By the way, if you see a big fella out in Sioux Falls by the name of Rick Weiher, tell him his brother says hello! Frank
  12. I had a friend run into financial trouble and I bought his Weaver crank splitter. Now I need to get rid of my personal Landis model 30 splitter. The paint is in like new condition. The blade does need sharpening. The only caveat is that it looks as someone ran a rivet through about 2" of the lower roller and the fins are turned down in that area. A space 1/4" wide by about 2" long. This does NOT affect the feeding or functionality of the machine, just a tad unsightly. I talked to Bruce Johnson and thought I should post it here. He mentioned the same thing, that the spot on the lower roller will not hinder the functionality. He mentioned that his personal one has the the same type of aesthetic problem. $450.00 plus shipping. If you are in the Wisconsin area, we can work something out as far as meeting or you picking it up. Frank
  13. It's been a long time since I have really posted. Been very busy here, with orders backed up through January. Here is some stuff that I have done. One presentation rig for next month as well. I can explain more once I have given the rig to the individual. I have been doing more and more rigs and holsters for the 1911 lately. Something must be in the wind. Frank
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