Patterns Adjustments For Different Size Leathers

[IngleGunLeather]

Hello everyone. I'm hoping you guys can correct me if I'm wrong on my theory and math. My next project is a cross draw 1911 holster for the western rig I recently completed. My customer likes the Will Ghormley "Frazier", but doesn't want all the doo-dads. Well, in Will's instructions he states that the pattern was made for 9-10oz leather. Well, I plan to use two 6/7oz pieces so I can line it. So, that leaves me with altering the pattern. I'm thinking just taking the difference of the two thicknesses and enlarging the pattern? Well, here's the math:

6/7oz (.109in) x 2 = .218in

9/10oz(.156in) x 1 = .156in

.218in - .156in = .062in or 1/16in

So, if the math and theory are correct, I just need to add 1/16in all the way around the pattern right?

Edited September 8, 2012 by CountryTrash

[Leatherimages]

I think you are doing great just to be aware of the difference!

I might add a little more and not worry about being short, but I like your thinking and your process.

No real bigee, it's not like it's metal, after all.

My own process is that liners are 4 times shorter than the thickness of the leather in question, when it it is enclosed like your holster here. My teacher calls it he orange peel effect.

The math is my own.

The circumfrance of an unpeeled orange will be approximately 4 X's the thickness of the peel greater than the orange itself.

With this premise a bi-fold wallet liner will be 2 X's the thickness shorter that the wallet back.

Corrections and disagreements welcome.

Paul

[katsass]

From the old grump: I have nothing to comment on your math - but I'm not a mathematician, but find that attempting to be that precise (1/16") in cutting is counter productive. I make almost all of my holsters from a double layer of 4/5oz veg-tanned shoulder leather. I personally find that two layers of 6/7 oz doesn't work and come out as neatly nor as well as does two layers of 4/5oz. I think that you will find that the double thick 4/5 oz works more easily, does not (generally) need to have the liner side to be cut smaller, needs no alteration to the pattern, and still shows no buckling. The biggest thing is to bond the two flesh sides together well (I use Wldwood Contact Cement). I apply as directed on the jug of stuff, place the two pieces together, roll with an old wallpaper wooden roller, and allow to sit overnight in a warm area to ensure conplete bonding. A stack of heavy books, a chunk of marble, or any available flat, heavy object (or combination of things) placed atop also ensures total contact and bonding. I think that you will also find that, since there are two grain layers (one inside and one outside) which is where the rigidity after molding and drying is produced, that after wet molding and drying the holster will be much more firm and retain it's molded shape better than a single piece of leather of equal weight. (around 9/10 oz leather). Here's a pic of a holster I made similar in style to what you want to put together - done about a year or so ago. Very firm and rigid in shape - and the inlay of ostrich shin just adds a bit of color, texture, and interest.. JMO. Hope this helps a bit. Mike

Edited September 8, 2012 by katsass

[IngleGunLeather]

Thanks for the input Mike and Paul. I hear what both of you are saying and it make's sense. I'm trying to use what I got on hand, which is 6/7oz.

Edited September 8, 2012 by CountryTrash