Members cleanview Posted September 17, 2012 Members Report Posted September 17, 2012 As mentioned before, this is my first attempt at an avenger and to use a pattern and to form after sewing (basically first attempt to do as I have learned on this sight. I made this one for a bersa 380 just to do some learning. Some of the things I learned through error. 1. Dye pieces before attaching peices. 2. Probably going to dye the main color with dauber then airbrush the 2nd color. To thin a coat with the air brush. 3. dont bone in the holster so wet. THis was the biggest mistake. attachment=66016:rezized.jpg] Couple of questions. 1. When dyeing the base coat some of the cordovan looked black. My first thought was the leather need to be cleaned. Do you clean the leather before dying and if so How? 2. The holster is tight fitting, but not tight enough. It can barely be held upside down. Is it the forming that need to be better? Over all I am pleased with the first attemp. It is far from where I want it to be, but I believe a redo could be better just from what I learned by error, and far better by you responses and advicec. Brent Quote
Members renegadelizard Posted September 17, 2012 Members Report Posted September 17, 2012 As mentioned before, this is my first attempt at an avenger and to use a pattern and to form after sewing (basically first attempt to do as I have learned on this sight. I made this one for a bersa 380 just to do some learning. Some of the things I learned through error. 1. Dye pieces before attaching peices. 2. Probably going to dye the main color with dauber then airbrush the 2nd color. To thin a coat with the air brush. 3. dont bone in the holster so wet. THis was the biggest mistake. attachment=66016:rezized.jpg] Couple of questions. 1. When dyeing the base coat some of the cordovan looked black. My first thought was the leather need to be cleaned. Do you clean the leather before dying and if so How? 2. The holster is tight fitting, but not tight enough. It can barely be held upside down. Is it the forming that need to be better? Over all I am pleased with the first attemp. It is far from where I want it to be, but I believe a redo could be better just from what I learned by error, and far better by you responses and advicec. Brent First question Brent, what leather are you using...wieght also...this will help us narrow down the retention issue... Second, yep, too wet when molding...if you get it soaking wet, you have to let it dry out before molding... i dont clean mine but many do..alot use a de-glazer....sometimes i will lghtly wet it before spraying with dye when you first put the dye on, it will look alot darker than when it is dry...if going for specific shade, wait until it dries a bit between coats... Quote
Members cleanview Posted September 17, 2012 Author Members Report Posted September 17, 2012 I bought the leather at tandy and it is usually called craftsman oak I believe it was 6-7 oz. Thanks Quote
Members Shooter McGavin Posted September 18, 2012 Members Report Posted September 18, 2012 If you bought the Fiebings Cordovan dye it comes out pretty dark if you do not reduce it. Hard to tell apart from the black after oiling and sealing. This has been my experience. Others must have better luck as it seems people must still buy it. Quote
Members renegadelizard Posted September 18, 2012 Members Report Posted September 18, 2012 I bought the leather at tandy and it is usually called craftsman oak I believe it was 6-7 oz. Thanks The tandy leather sure isnt helping you...go to springfield leather and order a single shoulder of herman oak and get it in 7-8 or 8-9 (i prefer 8-9)....6-7 is too light for a holster in my opinion, unless it is lined...keep at it...as i am continuing to learn, tis isnt something that you will master overnight...ive learned so much on here and translating all of this knowledge to my hands is time consuming...and addictive...but it will come... don Quote
Members cleanview Posted September 18, 2012 Author Members Report Posted September 18, 2012 If you bought the Fiebings Cordovan dye it comes out pretty dark if you do not reduce it. Hard to tell apart from the black after oiling and sealing. This has been my experience. Others must have better luck as it seems people must still buy it. That is the dye that I am using. what is the propper way to reduce it? Quote
Members cleanview Posted September 18, 2012 Author Members Report Posted September 18, 2012 The tandy leather sure isnt helping you...go to springfield leather and order a single shoulder of herman oak and get it in 7-8 or 8-9 (i prefer 8-9)....6-7 is too light for a holster in my opinion, unless it is lined...keep at it...as i am continuing to learn, tis isnt something that you will master overnight...ive learned so much on here and translating all of this knowledge to my hands is time consuming...and addictive...but it will come... don THANK YOU That is a very good site. It is the best one I have seen IMO. Why is Tandy leather such a poor choice? Brent Quote
Members renegadelizard Posted September 18, 2012 Members Report Posted September 18, 2012 THANK YOU That is a very good site. It is the best one I have seen IMO. Why is Tandy leather such a poor choice? Brent The tannery they get their leather form just isnt as good as herman oak or wickett and craig...and really, look at it this way...tandy isnt exactly a mega store, but its coming close...just like say walmart...and while i have a closet full of wal mart clothes, i know they are going to shrink, fade, and fail rather quickly...thats why when i want a good suit of clothes, i go somewhere that sells good quality clothes...usually i pay more, but i get more...Springfiedl leather on the other hand, is a single store dedicated to providing its customers quality goods, often at better prices than megastores...and their customer service is the best in any industry i have ever seen...give them a call and chat with them for a while...they are great..they get you set up with what you need, and offer any insight they might have if you have any spefic questions or hurdles...they know their trade and they are generous with their knowledge... Quote
Members brathair Posted September 18, 2012 Members Report Posted September 18, 2012 I am going to agree with what everyone has said but also offer a little voice of dissent. I would stick with the cheaper leather right now. Tandy leather is admittedly not as nice as the Herman Oak and others. However, you are still practicing your molding and getting your patterns down. If the Tandy leather is cheaper for you to buy go with it. I have gotten descent results with Tandy leather and have used it on a number of occasions because it was what was available at the moment. You are still going to be able to improve while using the Tandy. There will come a point when your skill will be beyond the materials you are using but it is my personal opinion that you will recognize that point when in comes. In the meantime practice with what is cheap. Now if you have the extra money go ahead and spend it if you are curious as to the differences in the leather. JMO Quote
Members cleanview Posted September 19, 2012 Author Members Report Posted September 19, 2012 I was was suprised at the springfield site . The prices were reasonable and soem ways better than tandy and smaller quanities are available and from what I could tell shippin was very good. I just bought two half shoulders from tandy. Probably last me a good littlw while. I think I will try springfield next time I have need. They had a real good selection. Practice makes perfect, or closer to perfect I guess. Each project gets better. Thanks again Brent Quote
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