Tallbald Report post Posted October 7, 2012 (edited) Last year when I got started in leather crafting I knew early on my arthritis would be a problem. I bought a 1 ton table top arbor press (instead of the 1/2 ton because I needed the throat room). Started out by disassembling it and de-burring everything. De-greased it while apart, and repainted a color I liked (and had a spare can of LOL). Laid out and drilled a 5/16 in hole in the end of the arbor 1 1/4 inch deep, and cross drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 hole to intersect from the side with the end hole, to give me a way to clamp punches in vertically. Next I made an oak bracket for the Proxxon and drilled and screwed it to a piece of heavy corner bracket cut to size, and fit it so it has repeatable positioning on the end of the arbor when attached to the threaded hole. I modified the factory accessory chuck to fit on this model and can use fine needle drills up to I think 1/8 inch. The table is removable on its oak filler shaped support, which is locator pin repeatable. The fence adjusts for distance from the center of the arbor, and helps me keep a straight line when border stamping, and is cut as a triangle of sorts so I can negotiate curved areas. I made a spring loaded strap return mehanism that can be removed if needed. I can replace the cutting board nylon "tabletop" with the factory cast iron round table too, and use the press to nicely set rivets and snaps. It's not pictured here, but a magnetic base work light attaches very well to the frame of the press and can light up either press work or stuff on our workbench (this is in my loving wife Penny's and my hobby room number two). The press is mounted on a scrap oak board with rubber button feet underneath. Heavy but portable. Hope these photos load. Don Edited October 7, 2012 by Tallbald Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bluesman1951 Report post Posted October 7, 2012 I like this idea a lot . I had something similar in the back of my mind . My objective was to make perfect holes for bullet loops in a line perfectly centered on my leather and indexed for spacing . After seeing your device I may give this further consideration . I also had some other ideas for a blade device for trimming sort of a hand clicker thing . This would give the people at OSHA nightmares and fits . Fortunately my wallet is small so most of these ideas remain on the drawing board LOL . For those who have seen "THE RED GREEN SHOW" I am not quite that bad but on some days close . For fun go to You Tube and type The Red Green Show and see for yourself . This is well thought out and well constructed looks efficent and is a useful jig . I like a lot the use of the plastic ,that is a under utilised shop jig material in my opinion . Very well done in my opinion ! To quote Red Green : "We are all in this together If the women dont find handsome they at least should find you handy " Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tallbald Report post Posted October 7, 2012 Actually another tool I can and do use in the press is a 1 inch wood chisel blade I removed from the plastic handle with heat. The shaft of the blade slides up into the hole in the end of the arbor, and I can trim neat, square sections of leather like between holes punched for loops. Don Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted October 7, 2012 You did well. Both inovative and craftsman like. The only comment I would have is I like to drill with a sewing machine needle instead of a drill bit. It does not remove the leather but pushes the fibers back and sort of locks them togeather. Aaron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tallbald Report post Posted October 8, 2012 (edited) Aaron my trouble is strength in my hands. I currently have to use bent needle nose pliers to push the threaded needle thrpgh the leather as I make the back stitch in a saddle stitch. I drill 1/16 inch, aware I am removing material, and although I wish I were not removing it, it's the only way I have to lessen the pressure needed to pass the needle. Question: Would a triangular awl point spread the matarial enough to allow the threaded needle to pass? I am having to adapt to my limitations, and chose drilling as a method. I know from extensive reading that others drill as do I. Most of my holsters are black from vinegaroon. I have been thinking the wetting of the leather in this process swells the leather to lock in the stitch too. At least I hope.......Don Edited October 8, 2012 by Tallbald Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted October 8, 2012 I pull my needles with pliars too. This is the needle I drill with: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/3789-23.aspx I do not push it through, I spin it and use the needle as a drill. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tallbald Report post Posted October 8, 2012 Not real sure I understand. You pre-punch the leather using the shown needle spun in a drill press? Then use pliers as do I to pull the threaded needle thru? Don Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted October 8, 2012 Yes, I drill the holes by spinning a sewing machine needle in a drill press or dremel, depending on the application. I pull the needles through the holes by hand or with pliars depending on the threas and the leather thickness. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites