My Avenger Redo

[cleanview]

Redid my avenger holster that was posted a week or so ago. Its biggest problem was trigger was not covered enough.

The first one

below is the redo

corrected the trigger problem but might have gotten the stich line a little looser than needed.

Took the sharp corner out and trimmed up the ear a little.

Also moved teh front belt loop forward some.

Any pointers?

Over all I am pretty happy with it.

[Shooter McGavin]

Is there enough room to get a full grip on the gun when you go for the drawstroke? Hard to tell from the pic with the pistol in place. Theres a fine balancing act in getting good trigger coverage while also leaving room to grip the gun properly. More forward cant would help that, as would dropping the top edge of the wing down a bit. You have tons of deadspace above, and in front of, the belt slot that you could eliminate.

You already know you need to fix that stitchline.

Keep going at it, your next one will be awesome!

[TwinOaks]

Looks good. I prefer a little more leather across the top of the slide, but that's me.

You could add a second stitch line 1/4" to 3/8" closer to the gun to tighten it up if needed.

For the tunnel loop (the front one), you need to start at the bottom stitch, hang a left and sew all the way around the loop and where the belt will exit, and continue to the end of the top stitch. Right now, the only thing holding the loop against the leather is a single line of stitching top and bottom. Under enough stress, you could see the stitch pull through the leather unless you spread the (possible) load over more stitches. By sewing around the loop, you will add another 8-10 stitches supporting the load......the ones around the front of the hole just look nice and prevent the front of the hole from opening up.

[cleanview]

Thanks for the replies.

It does seem the stitch line is the mystery . The first one was to close, so being a liitle gun shy I put the stitch line on the redo holster a little to far out. I figure it can be brrought in if needed but when it is to small it is to small.

I see what you mean about the stitch around the tunnel belt loop. I will incorporate that in future holsters.

The low ride on the front (the cut out) is for action shooting.

Am I missing something? I assumed the only way to put more cant was the positions of the belt loops.

It is hard to get a grip. The balancing act again. Each time I do a holster I learn by error. There is a way around the grip problem in the sport I play. I use this gun once in a while, but mostly the holsters I have made are functional, but onlt practice for the one I will make for the 1911 gun I play with most.

I really appreciate the comments and any more that are to come. It is a big help in the learning process.

Brent

[TwinOaks]

Look at how much leather is above the rear belt loop....That is where your grip space went. Don't be afraid to carve out some of that area to provide space for the grip.

[IngleGunLeather]

Look at how much leather is above the rear belt loop....That is where your grip space went. Don't be afraid to carve out some of that area to provide space for the grip.

Thanks for the replies.

It does seem the stitch line is the mystery . The first one was to close, so being a liitle gun shy I put the stitch line on the redo holster a little to far out. I figure it can be brrought in if needed but when it is to small it is to small.

I see what you mean about the stitch around the tunnel belt loop. I will incorporate that in future holsters.

The low ride on the front (the cut out) is for action shooting.

Am I missing something? I assumed the only way to put more cant was the positions of the belt loops.

It is hard to get a grip. The balancing act again. Each time I do a holster I learn by error. There is a way around the grip problem in the sport I play. I use this gun once in a while, but mostly the holsters I have made are functional, but onlt practice for the one I will make for the 1911 gun I play with most.

I really appreciate the comments and any more that are to come. It is a big help in the learning process.

Brent

Brent....Here's a picture of a similar style holster I did for a Glock. Albiet it's a clip on, I believe the lines could be transferred to the belt slot style avenger. I could use my same pattern from this clip on and continue the line further out to make a belt slot. I have good coverage of the trigger/guard and still would have plenty of room for a full grip on the gun. From the rear of the trigger guard on your existing pattern I would drop down about a half inch. It's hard for me to put it in words, hopefully the picture will explain better than I can in words.

Please forgive the squiggly lines, I did this on MS Paint and I have shaky hands.

Edited October 19, 2012 by CountryTrash

[cleanview]

Yes. I took my pattern and made that exact modification to it. Great minds think alike.

[katsass]

FWIW from the grump; OK, I'll try to give this a 'go'. I figure that most all the things folks can talk about has been said - - except...... When making a holster pattern you have to know where the gun seats (or is going to seat) in the rig - - on auto pistols, it's basically always on the front of the trigger guard. On wheel-guns, it's the same, usually, but can be the front of the frame, and in some cases , both areas. As your rig sits, that shooter will ease it's way down 'till the muzzle sticks out like a lazy cow's tongue on a hot day. On your pattern, the stitch line must be close enough to limit the depth that the gun can drop down in the leather, which, in turn relates to the location of the top of your holster. It is LESS in distance than the stitch line is from the outline of the gun around the BOTTOM of the trigger guard. In other words, ease that stitch line at the front of the trigger guard, up - a bunch. That distance is also just slightly LESS than the distance from the outline of the muzzle of your shooter (on paper) to the end of the holster - - for an open-toe holster. For a closed-toe holster, you need to add enough to allow room for the muzzle AND the stitching. Probably clear as mud, but that's the way it goes.. Mike

[cleanview]

Thamks again. That is a good explanation of what is. Needed.

The first one was a little to tight which resulted in the trigger not being covered as much as desired and then. Natualy. I over compensated and made it a little to loose. I do understand what you are saying in regards to the impotance of the stitch line placement.

The more i look at the picture the more i see the ear should be a little smaller as well (even though it is much aller than the first one.

Believe it or not i am thinking about making a third one just to try to get it just right. After all pracice makes perfect.

Thanks again

Brent

[cleanview]

Thought about putting a few of my projects that i am redoing or modifing on ebay to re-invest in leather.

Thought about putting a few of my projects that i am redoing or modifing on ebay to re-invest in leather.

[katsass]

Just another comment from the grump: When drawing my patterns, I draw the outline of the gun then establish the cut line - -At the front of the trigger guard - - then the stitch line in the same location. From knowing the depth that the gun will be in the rig allows me to determine the location of the mouth of the holster and,in turn, the toe. I can then figure the cut and stitch lines around the entire shooter. It's just the way I do things, because, in my mind, the stitching at the front of the trigger guard is (arguably) the most important - most everything else is done in relation to that location. Mike

[dickf]

I'd start with this edit to your pattern.

Yes, you should do it again...and again...until it's right.

No, you should not sell or attempt to sell things you know are sub-par and could be potentially dangerous to the end-user.

If your standards are high, so will be the quality of your work.

Good luck!