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  • Moderator
Posted

I guess I apply it differently. I have been using a paint roller for years. Fine napped paint roller and plastic tray. I can control how heavy I apply it by how much I roll out on the ramp before I got to leather. I get a good even coat all the way to the end on belts by running the roller a bit diagonally. On the big surfaces I slightly overlap. I don't end up with swirl marks or spend a lot of time applying. If I have 3 or 4 small pieces like checkbooks I just line them on the table and roll over them all in a pass. Two passes on a stirrup leather will do what I need. It is a time saver for me and does the best job of anything else I have tried. For my lining sides I can do a whole side in about 5 minutes. For molded cases I use a woolskin patch and dip into my oil tray, then squeeze it out to leave what I want in it. I lightly slather it on.

I leave my oil set for 24 hours after I apply before I decide if I want more.

Bruce Johnson

Malachi 4:2

"the windshield's bigger than the mirror, somewhere west of Laramie" - Dave Stamey

Vintage Refurbished And Selected New Leather Tools For Sale - www.brucejohnsonleather.com

  • Members
Posted

Well, so as to not sound insane, I found the post I referenced earlier from someone here who uses an airbrush to apply the neatsfoot oil.

Here it is...

I guess the main point is that there isn't really a wrong way to apply it as long as it isn't overdone.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Its not a good finish but its a great natural looking dye. Not really a dye but it will darken it to that nice undyed leather look. Leave it out in the sun for several hours and it will give you a rich light brown look. Sun tanned leather.

Then give it a coat of leather balm with atom wax and you are set. I love the look.

The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering.

Bruce Lee

  • 1 month later...
  • Members
Posted

I use whatever fits the size of the piece. Small straps, I use a dauber, and squeeze most of the oil back out first, then use t-shirt scraps to buff the excess off. Same procedure for larger pieces, but I might use something larger like t-shirt or underwear scraps, or a wool scrap. Again, buffing off the excess. In this manner, I can apply just a little at a time, wait for it to soak in, and see if it needs more.

Recently, I had some straps that were so dry after dying that they were ashy in patches. I gobbed the oil on with a dauber, let it soak in, and repeated until the straps wouldn't soak in the oil very quickly. At at that point, I buffed them and let them sit until the surface was dry, then finished with Saddle Lac.

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