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Dogface

Problem With My Juki Pro 2000

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Bob,

Thanks for the explanation. I guess my Juki is rare then because it does have a feed dog. It was originally owned by a factory that makes leather tool belts. ...but it does say Ferdco on it. Do parts for the Cowboy fit my Juki ?

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Hi Dogface, You can read about the lower needle guide in this topic http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=41581&hl=%2Bferdco+%2Blower+%2Bneedle . Your machine is a Juki TSC 441 pimped by Mr. Ferdinand Jean Blanc in his Ferdco company. They took a stock Juki TSC 441 and made it in to a leather stitcher. Later they made the head them self and modified it some more (higher lift like the Cowboy,from 20 mm to about 25 mm) like the latest Pro 200 Super Bull.

Sadly Ferdco is out of business; I belived they started the cloning of this fine leather stitcher ( starded the clone war). Who have become the industri standard in saddlery machines today. Correct me if I am wrong. Your machine is made in Japan and you best use original Juki parts for it. You can also use Chinese clone parts like Cowboy and Cobra. We use Juki part on our 441 clones too. Any Juki 441 or clone will have trouble in reverse with the slotrted needle or bag plate, because only the feed dog feeds in reverse.

Trox

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Hi Trox,

Thanks for all this...I really need to understand this machine better and that link helped a lot. I did talk to Cheryl some months ago..I think just a day or so after they closed as a matter of fact. She sent me an owners manual for the machine I have. Just so I know we're on the same page... the part I'm referring to as a 'feed dog' is (I think) a multi-notched part in the slot of the plate that moves the work piece forward or back to progress it as it sews. Mine has such a part. I dunno how else it would progress the workpiece w/o that part. I bought it years ago from a friend, now deceased, who used to service these. The guy who owns the plant that makes those leather tool belts had 9 Adlers and one Juki so he went with another Adler and traded in the Juki. I bought the whole set up complete for $2000. I would, however, like to replace the motor with a newer servo motor for better speed control even though mine does have a speed reducing wheel. Guess I could write to Bob and see if that's doable and affordable.

Oh, Cheryl now has a new web page... www.bwleather.com.

Edited by Dogface

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I know that everybody appears to love bonded nylon but bonded polyester has much better lubrication properties. Would be interested to hear what comments you all have as I am about to order $US10k worth of bonded poly.

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You're gonna buy $10,000.00 worth of thread !

I've not used either but when I need to restock I will be choosing one or the other for sure

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Bonded polyester is not quite as strong but is less abrasive than bonded nylon and has better UV resistance so it may be 5% weaker than Nylon but will be 5% stronger in 2 years time.

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I've never used bonded thread of any kind but will be anxious to try it. For what I do, strength is not as impt. as durability. Will be nice to not have ends fray ;)

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Bonded polyester is not quite as strong but is less abrasive than bonded nylon and has better UV resistance so it may be 5% weaker than Nylon but will be 5% stronger in 2 years time.

Hi Darren,

I am only using polyester threads (Coats Gral and Amman Serafil). My big Adler's (204, 105 and 5) like polyester much better than bonded nylon, B. nylon is too stiff for them. Polyester are much softer. The strength is not an issue, they are both almost too strong. My reason for trying bonded nylon is the difficulties to get thick enough polyester for my 441. I have to order the thickest sizes abroad, I cannot get them here in Norway. What brand of threads are you buying in a so large scale? are you selling that much. You aren't afraid it will become old before you get rid of it?

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I have thread made in China and branded for me. At the moment I import $US1000 worth of High Tenacity Polyester - equivalent to Serafil - every six months or so.in 40 ticket (#69) in black, Raw White and a medium dark brown.

I would stick to the Serafil type thread but the market here is dominated by bonded nylon so the bonded polyester will be less of a change for them.

Hi Darren,

I am only using polyester threads (Coats Gral and Amman Serafil). My big Adler's (204, 105 and 5) like polyester much better than bonded nylon, B. nylon is too stiff for them. Polyester are much softer. The strength is not an issue, they are both almost too strong. My reason for trying bonded nylon is the difficulties to get thick enough polyester for my 441. I have to order the thickest sizes abroad, I cannot get them here in Norway. What brand of threads are you buying in a so large scale? are you selling that much. You aren't afraid it will become old before you get rid of it?

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I understand why they will not change threads when they have something that works. Sewing threads are a jungle of sizes, it even changes with material its made of. Then it is the old trouble metric or imperial. I could not get bonded nylon to work for me, polyester did and I stuck with it. Many times I wished I used the same as you guys in Australia and USA, that way I knew what you where talking about in the the related topics about it. I will check with some of our US dealers to get some tex. 400 to 500. I guess TKT 40 thread you import are for your Patcher customers, Anne Bonney Locker`s finest bonded nylon? It sounds real good to me. I do not know what you call it, However, "Bonded" will for sure have a relaxing effect on your customers. By the way Here it is some old Singers I know you would have wanted.

http://www.finn.no/finn/torget/tilsalgs/object?finnkode=38162206&reference=2012%2F11%2Fvertical-5%2F04%2F6%2F381%2F622%2F06_33347346.jpg price (before bargain) 220$

http://www.finn.no/finn/torget/tilsalgs/object?finnkode=37755993&reference=2012%2F10%2Fvertical-5%2F14%2F9%2F137%2F486%2F99_1625143583.jpg (This one I cannot identify) 120$

http://www.finn.no/finn/torget/tilsalgs/annonse?finnkode=37442286 And a nice Adler zik zak 220$

Plus One 7K-32, 75$ and one 45K with cylinderarm 120$, the add was to old to show. It did not sell and I have no room for more.

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The second could be a 16k28. It is hard read the badge but It certainly looks like a 16.

Just to make ordering thread even more fun is that the Chinese use a different system again.

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The second could be a 16k28. It is hard read the badge but It certainly looks like a 16.

Just to make ordering thread even more fun is that the Chinese use a different system again.

You are right, It must be a 16K-28. It has a shuttle hook like the big stitcher's and can sew medium thick materials. It has only drop feed, however it is in a very nice original condition. A good piece for a Singer collector, you do not see these to often in a this good condition. There is a nice Adler 467 with Rotan pos motor and all air pneumatic for sale to, Any Norwegians looking for a good machine check it out on Finn.no.

The thread jungle is not funny at all, if its something our industry should work together against; its a standardization of thread sizes. Even experienced saddler are afraid of trying something new when it involves a hole new size chart. It is complexed enough to remember what needle we used for which thread size, we do not want to take on whole new type of measurement, time is money. Standardizations must be done fast before the politicians starts to mess with it, we still fight about Metric or imperial. I guess we never will agree about what is the best system. I somebody made a Iphone app with threads and needle conversations I sure would have bought it.

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The 16 series is more or less a long bed version of the 15 class that over time was developed into a whole range of light industrial machines. Most use the standard 15 class shuttle hook and bobbin case. The 16k28 uses the long beak shuttle as found in the 17/18 class (also Seiko TE/TF) and has a wheel feed.

As is typical the 16 class continues in production alongside the 31 and they had similar capabilities!

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