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Dogface

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Everything posted by Dogface

  1. Trox, I'm not talking about the machine head...this is the speed reducer pully under the table that was chattering...It has a grease zerk. I understand your post re: the holes in the head. I'll look on top of the head for that hole but that's not where the chatter came from...
  2. Just tried what you said, Bob..... BINGO...it worked.... now to find a fitting for my grease gun that matches the zerk on the pulley Thank you all for your input !!!!
  3. Just checked the machine. Pulleys are tight but the sound continues. The best at the wheel seems to wobble a bit ? There's also a grease zerk on one wheel but could not get my gun to fit on it...pretty small. Looks also like I need new belts as the edges are frayed a bit. How tight are they suppoesed to be ?
  4. Really not sure what the problem is but there's a terrible 'scream' coming from the area of the belts/pulleys. It's not a squeal like you hear on a car's fan belt but more a loud and off and on medium pitch scraping sound. At first I thought it was in need of belt dressing but the more I think about I think it's from the pulleys. I've tried regular belt dressing but its so messy...black tar like liquid and hard to apply all over. Thinking of trying a bar of soap just to see if it quiets down. Taking the machine it to service is SO difficult because of weight and size of the machine. I will try adjusting the pully tension Has anyone ever had to deal with pulley bearings ? Any suggestions ? Mark
  5. The one the OP was looking for is also sold by Weaver but I find it to be a bad choice because the glue dries out due to poor seal. It's also very expensive... I'm gonna look at some of the others mentioned here.
  6. Thanks Amigo ! They had just what I need... pretty spendy but I only need two of the smaller ones... Mark
  7. I have one tool for borders which is D447...kinda looks like a lollipop with a wide base. It's used to make a so called 'running W' border design and may have other uses too. The one I have is really too tall/wide to used on holsters and belts and someplace on line I saw a web page that sells these in about five sizes but I can't find that source again.... If anyone knows the source I'd be most grateful Dogface
  8. Hope its working well now. Changed the bobbin position, changed to correct size needle, tried it with partially dried/set glue and seems to be working well now...at least on a test scrap... Thanks to all for the input and suggestions. This forum is awesome..
  9. Yes, I've had this machine a long time but never really had to mess with the tension...just thread it when needed. It always sewed perfectly in the past. I will try the foot pressure though..didn't realize that would cause it. I think I took off some pressure to keep from leaving marks on the work. I have seen Bob's video, BTW...well done
  10. Just went up to check how it's threaded. Looks perfect to me. The loops I was/am getting are when I'm sewing 2oz lining onto 8/9 oz product. Lining was glued on with Barges first. My wonderment is if I didn't let the glue dry/set long enough. I just tried some scraps of the same wt. leather pieces without glue and the stitch line looks fine... Whadda all think here ? Edit: Just looked at the bobbin and it was put in the wrong way... We shall see. Top tension seems OK and is done the way Bob's video shows it... Also had to change the size of the needle to fit thread sizes...was too big..
  11. Yes, I know that and it is wound that way.. at least you agree that it's the top tension that's the problem...
  12. Trox, Thanks for that. I really would like to take it back to the shop that did the service but the darn thing is so heavy and it's upstairs in my shop above the garage. Just so hard to move... I will at least call them and try to talk to the tech that did the work. I really never asked them to adjust much, just clean and oil..all I wanted cuz it worked very well before this. Pretty sure I have the correct needles...
  13. Yes, I did a bit. Only way I know to do that on my machine is to run the thread thru more holes in that silver stick that's on top....I guess one could do an extra wrap on that set of wheels just below the take up gizmo on the end... I still need to install that servo motor too...when sewing around complex curved it's hard to stay slow with the original system..I have to stop sometimes and that's when I get most of the loose loops on the bottom...
  14. Bob, That's what I thought too. My wife, who is a seamstress, said it's the bobbin tension. I have the top thread on correctly...checked it many times...
  15. Thanks for the replies. Yes I do have a manual and will check it for sure....especially the bobbin part. Is there any way to increase bobbin thread tension ?
  16. I've had this machine for at least ten years but just had it serviced recently. Now I have a problem with the stitches and can't figure out what's causing it. The top line looks great but the bobbin thread is always loose and has loops and snags here and there. I thought the top tension was too loose but some say the bobbing thread is too loose and I dunno how to tighten that. Any ideas here....?
  17. I've never used bonded thread of any kind but will be anxious to try it. For what I do, strength is not as impt. as durability. Will be nice to not have ends fray
  18. You're gonna buy $10,000.00 worth of thread ! I've not used either but when I need to restock I will be choosing one or the other for sure
  19. I have just finished setting up my airbrush system but have not used it yet. Seems that one must protect yourself from the aerosolized particles of dye or other substance you are airbrushing. Do you use a simple surgical mask or full respirator? After you're done how do you clear the room before you remove the mask ? Even with fans and open windows I dunno how long it takes to make the room safe. Thanks in advance Mark
  20. I have a bandana with a knot tied like that. A guy did it for me cuz I could not follow his instructions. It's a very cool knot and I'd also love to learn it...
  21. Hi Trox, Thanks for all this...I really need to understand this machine better and that link helped a lot. I did talk to Cheryl some months ago..I think just a day or so after they closed as a matter of fact. She sent me an owners manual for the machine I have. Just so I know we're on the same page... the part I'm referring to as a 'feed dog' is (I think) a multi-notched part in the slot of the plate that moves the work piece forward or back to progress it as it sews. Mine has such a part. I dunno how else it would progress the workpiece w/o that part. I bought it years ago from a friend, now deceased, who used to service these. The guy who owns the plant that makes those leather tool belts had 9 Adlers and one Juki so he went with another Adler and traded in the Juki. I bought the whole set up complete for $2000. I would, however, like to replace the motor with a newer servo motor for better speed control even though mine does have a speed reducing wheel. Guess I could write to Bob and see if that's doable and affordable. Oh, Cheryl now has a new web page... www.bwleather.com.
  22. Bob, Thanks for the explanation. I guess my Juki is rare then because it does have a feed dog. It was originally owned by a factory that makes leather tool belts. ...but it does say Ferdco on it. Do parts for the Cowboy fit my Juki ?
  23. Really? I had no idea. What is the needle guide that the 441 has? I figured that the 2000 was not made any more. Been trying to figger mine out and think I have running right.
  24. Trox, Actually I looked at my pressor foot tensioner and it's fine. Thanks for the advice on treating the thread. I'll try it today. My thread is at least as old as my leather. I can afford to buy new thread if I have to but I gotta make use of the hides I still have.
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