Problem With Dyeing Heavy Harnessleather

[Ingrid]

I have a problem with dyeing my heavy harnessleather, hope somebody can set me on the right path.

I have this beautiful, light oiled high quality harnessleather (13-15 oz) that I use for dogcollars etc. I use Fiebing’s professional oil dye. With the black I have no problem, but the browns are giving me headaches.

I just can’t get the dye to penetrate the leather completely and evenly.

What have I tried:

- Not cleaning the leather, directly dyeing

- Not cleaning the leather, dampening before dyeing,

- Oiling the leather before dying,

- Not oiling the leather before dyeing

- Cleaning the leather before dyeing with

• Ammonia
  
• Alcohol
  
• Aceton
  
• All kinds of mixtures of the three above
  
• Special leathercleaner
  
• Fiebing’s dyeprep
  

- Dilluting the paint with alcohol

- I also tried to apply the dye in different ways:

• With a cloth, various thin layers
  
• With a dauber
  
• With a sponge
  

But the effect is still not satisfying. At the first glance, it looks fine but when I bend it to fasten the buckle, you see all this “cracks” where the paint didn’t hold. It’s not evenly. Now I am not talking about a pull up effect, that ‘s normal for this kind of quality leather, but really little spiderly lines where the paint did not penetrate.

Now this looks really nice actually, and lots of my clients want it for it’s special rough look. But for some projects I want to dye the leather evenly. I’ve tried so many things, but am really frustrated now.

On my other thin leather, no problem. Looks fine and even. Problem is only with the heavier harness leather (different batches, different tannery, different weight.)

Anyone out there with the golden answer? What am I doing wrong?

Edited November 2, 2012 by Ingrid

[RoosterShooter]

When you say that you cleaned the leather with Acetone and alcohol ....

Did you saturate the leather, or simply rub the leather with it?

I have found that, when using Angelus Dyes that it works best when I saturate the leather with Acetone, and allow 30 minutes or so to dry. This WILL dry the leather out, remove the surface oils, and open the pores. So, you will need to go back with Neatsfoot Oil after the piece is completely dry from dying.

Also, I suspect that the oiled leather you are using may have some sort of wax mixed in with the oil from the factory. If so, this will inhibit the absorption of the die.

Finally, you might try cutting your dye 50/50 with the dye and alcohol. I have found this works best in my applications.

Maybe some more experienced leather workers will chime in, but the above has been my experience.

Edited November 2, 2012 by RoosterShooter

[bruce johnson]

Harness leather is usually a veg tan leather that has been treated with oils, waxes, and greases in proprietary mixes depending on the tannery and the different types of harness leather they may be producing. Some can be pretty "dry", some waxy, and some pretty greasy/oily. Some of these treatments are going to repel dyes or inhibit penetration to any great degree. Treating with the solvents may strip some of the compounds off the surface that the tannery added and allow some level of dyeing to happen. Still I don't think it is going to do as good a job as it does on plain vegtan leather.

I don't buy harness leather anymore. I chose several years ago not to compete with everyone else selling clicker cut harness lather tack then. I had a good relationship with a rep at a now closed tannery and he steered me towards what I do now. Occasionally I need "harness leather" for loop ends for reins or repair work. I pick a nice firm section of skirting leather and oil it with an oil of choice - pure neatsfoot or olive oil. Some I oil pretty heavy for more color, some lighter. Once the oil has settled, I go back and dress it with a paste conditioner. He was not a Tandy rep or affiliated, but he recommended I use the Dr Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator as the paste. Pretty cheap and works well. I apply it in several thin coats and lightly heat it with a hair dryer to soften it and help it penetrate. That works for me and I end up with a good feeling leather for my needs. On some of the repair work I need to match color. I dye the leather, then oil. then paste and most of the time can get pretty close. The dye goes on the plain leather so I get a good penetration.

[Ingrid]

Thanks for taking the time to reply. II have tried the acetone thing like you advised, RoosterShooter. Didn't do the trick unfortunately, but it was worth the shot.

Bruce, I think you have a point. I've worked with several weights and qualities of harness leather now and have found that no hide is consistent. Every hide means starting all over again with experimenting how to get the results I want and need.

Maybe I should just buy some precoloured harness leather for this kind of projects, and then use the heavy natural veg tan leather for the projects that demand the antique or distressed look (which are very easy to obtain on this leather and my customers are wild about it).

I just can't stand the fact that I can't succeed doing a proper (even) dye job on this leather.