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Sharpening Strap End Punch...not Working :/


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  • Members
Posted

Hello,

Getting slightly exasperated with my strap punch as of late! I am attempting to sharpen my strap end punch (http://www.tandyleather.eu/en-gbp/3198-03.aspx) by following this video:

using a Stanley sharpening stone/oil.

Despite running it along the sharpening stone as directed by the video, I can't really seem to get a keen edge and I am failing to stamp through my leather. I have read somewhere that you require a heavy mallet to handle this tool properly, but I have been using Tandy's poly-head mallet as instructed by one of Tandy's shop assistants. I am by no means a seasoned leatherworker - I have only focused on making a handful of basic animal collars, and now my strap punch is failing me. :(

Could someone tell me what I may be doing incorrectly? Or perhaps I need to sit and sharpen for ages? I'm at the point of asking any UK leatherworkers if they'd consider sharpening it for me for a reasonable fee! If the punches didn't cost the amount they do I'd simply get a new one!

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Posted

Leather cutting tools has to be polished after sharpening, read all the pinned sharpening topics on top of this forum. Get a strop and some polishing paste and polish all cutting tools to a mirror like surface. You can also use a buffing wheel on a drill, bench grinder etc to polish your tools. We polish all tools on the strop before use . See your edge under a magnifying glass after sharpening, your edge are still coarse. Using a stone like in this video is just half a job, you need to polish it. Post a high resolution picture of your edge and let us see how your edge look like,

Good luck

Trox

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

  • Members
Posted

Hi Trox,

Thanks for the reply. :) When sharpening this type of tool do I use the strop in the same fashion as the sharpening stone?

Thanks again!

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Yes, but on a pulling stroke instead of pushing. You'll know immediately if your strop is working, as you'll have gray/black streaks where your tool passed over it.

Look for a mirror finish, but you CAN settle for just a high shine.

Mike DeLoach

Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem)

"Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade."

"Teach what you know......Learn what you don't."

LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.

  • Members
Posted

Thanks for the reply, TwinOaks. :)

I was working with the pull stroke on the flat side of the tool when using the sharpening stone, and only pushing when following the curve/outer side of the tool end, as instructed in the video. I used both the coarse and fine side of the stone, so I didn't realise I would need to refine it even further. I was getting those grey/black marks on the sharpening stone, so I hope that's some indication that I was doing it correctly? So, just to reinforce: I simply need to repeat this procedure on a strop with a finer grain until I get a nice shiny finish?

Thanks again for the help - I really appreciate it! :)

Posted

Glue som firm leather (hairside out) to a piece of plywood 2 x 20 inches (or desired size) and get some aggressive polishing paste to use on it, then you have a polishing strop. (or buy one) You polishing by pulling hard against the strop in the cutting direction. When you have a nice shiny or mirror like edge, your punch will glide through your leather like a knife through butter. (almost)

good luck

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

Posted

A heavier maul or mallet ( something in the 1 1/2 to 2 pound range ) will help a lot to. Those poly head mallets they sell or to light to use cutting ends on straps. IMO

I'm old enough to know that i don't know everything.

Posted

Yep thats true, I use a heavy rawhide maul. A light head will only beat up the tool, when a heavy maul will drive the tool through the leather. (of course the poly can`t ruin steel, its just a figure of speaking)

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

  • Moderator
Posted

Make sure your work surface is solid without any (even the slightest) bounce. Use the floor if you have to. Also use a heavy mallet or maul. I use a 96 oz Barry King maul which may be overkill, but a two or three pounder should also work.

Art

For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!

  • Members
Posted

Thanks for all of the helpful replies, guys! :grouphug5vj5: I was checking out leather strops online and a lot of them seem slightly pricey for what they are, but I suppose it's an investment if I don't really have the appropriate leather. I only have 5-6oz vegetable tanned leather; I only purchased one roll while I was visiting PA earlier this year as I knew I wouldn't need a huge amount for making basic collars. I've been teaching myself with this piece of leather, using the resources I've managed to unearth on the internet. It's a little slow-going and although I'd love to purchase thicker leather, I just find it a little bit too pricey at the moment - being a recent uni graduate and part-time employee means it doesn't really fit the current budget! At least not on the Tandy website. Anyway, I was initially looking for 6-7oz as recommended by the dog collar pattern I found on Tandy's Leather Library, but they were sold out at the shop in PA, so had to settle for the 5-6oz at the time. In any case, would this type of leather be adequate for making a strop? I saw a few videos and all of the leather looks rather dark/thick, so I'm doubtful. :unsure:

This was the most suitable thing (I think) that I could find: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trend-Honing-Paste-Leather-Strop-DWS-HP-LS-/120996618571?pt=UK_BOI_Building_Materials_Supplies_Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&hash=item1c2bf5e14b + http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tormek-PA-70-Honing-Paste-T7-or-T3-/190614204884?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item2c617df1d4

Again, thank you for the help. :) Any further feedback would be fab!

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