Problem Cutting W & C Leather

[JeffGC]

I originally posted this subject in the "All About Leather" section. Unfortunately, I only received a couple of comments. Hopefully, fellow holster-makers can contribute a bit more. I have experimented with misting the flesh side with water and this seems to help. Have not yet tried applying oil to the leather.

Yesterday, I starting working with a side of W&C veg tanned tooling leather that I had purchased in February 2012. With a freshly sharpened head knife, I could hardly cut through the leather. As the blade passed through the leather, it made a squeaking sound. I finally had to finish cutting out the holster with an X-Acto knife and that was difficult too.

I contacted W&C this morning, speaking with Matt, their sales manager. He was very helpful, explaining that the leather was old and had dried out, causing my problems. He suggested moistening the leather with either water or a light application of oil.

I have made holsters, as a hobby for about 40 years and have never experienced this type of problem. Due to my very low volume, I'm often working with leather that has been on the shelf for a number of years.

Have others experienced similar problems? If so, how did you deal with the problem? Any input will be greatly appreciated.

Jeff C.

[Denster]

That is most generally a problem with some Hermann Oak. I go through 30 or 40 sides a year and of those 2 or 3 will be Hermann Oak from hell to cut. The solution I found for these hides is to use a utility knife with a hook blade well stropped. I start the cut by rolling my round knife through the leather at the bottom of the pattern till I have a couple of inch slit through the hide. Then insert the hook blade from the flesh side and pull it around the pattern. Almost as quick as with a round knife and by pulling the blade it lessens the tendency to angle it.

The upside to a piece of leather like this is it makes up into very nice holsters.

[IngleGunLeather]

Did you try any of those suggestions in the original thread? I recommended moistening the underside (flesh) with water. Additionaly you could rough cut the leather with a utility knife, case it properly, and then do a final cut with head knife. I really think water is the solution here.

[Denster]

Did you try any of those suggestions in the original thread? I recommended moistening the underside (flesh) with water. Additionaly you could rough cut the leather with a utility knife, case it properly, and then do a final cut with head knife. I really think water is the solution here.

I wish that were the case but I have not found it to be so. The tough cutting doesn't seem to be related to the moisture content more likely to some abnormality in the tannage of a particular hide.

[JeffGC]

I did experiment with misting the flesh side of the leather. I was only working with some scraps but it did seem to help. What really confuses me is, due to my very low volume, I'm typically working with leather that's been around for a while. I've never experienced anything like this.

Jeff C.

[IngleGunLeather]

Hmmm. I'm baffled then. I wish I could recommend something else, but water and several cutting passes usually works for me. Maybe a conditioner? I wouldn't recommend oil as that may affect you when you go to dye.

[immiketoo]

Jeff, I'm convinced that its the rawhide content in the side. They are all different and sometimes they just don't get tanned properly. I have seen this a lot in cheaper leathers, not so much in HO. You'll just have to deal with it unfortunately.

[chiefjason]

I've had that with HO. It's an absolute pain to deal with. Water helps but does not completely fix it. But as said above, it makes a great stiff holster. For whatever reason leather that does that seems to be denser and more stiff. It may be the tanning process or might just be the cow.

Do you have a bandsaw you could use? I'm considering giving my scroll saw a try. That was one recommendation I got from another holster maker.

[Denster]

The best solution I have found as I stated earlier is a utility knife with a hook blade. As long as you strop it first and between patterns it will glide right through the toughest leather. It will also go around tight curves with no problem.

[immiketoo]

Denster, I've been looking at those. What size do you use for 11-12 leather?

[Denster]

Mike

I wasn't aware there were different sizes. What I use is a standard folding utility knife that takes disposable blades. The blades are just a package of double ended hook blades. I've used it to cut up to 14oz bridle leather.

[longtooth]

Had a similar problem with a side from Triple C. What I found was as stated earlier rawhide spots. What I normally do is I keep quarts of liquid saddle soap and apply before I start marking and cutting. Getting through that rawhide is a bitch. Sure glad that hide is used up.

[Rayban]

My stitching machine doesn't like those rawhide spots either.....but I've never encountered them with W&C.....just with some "imported" leather.

[Jimbob]

Same here, got some nice HO craftsman sides from Springfield in 8-9 oz....allmost impossible to cut with head knife, I am now using a shoemakers blade...still hard as it can be to cut....tends to slip and can ruin ur day in a hurry!!

BUT it molds most wonderful arround any gun!!

Not sure what causes this...its not age, I have some sides for 3-5 years here and they cut like butter!!

I am sure this has to do with the tanning, my guess it has been sped up or something chemical added to it....this would change the consistency of the fibers...?!!?? Not sure...

Only solution, super sharp knife, super careful and talk to the supplier....they need to hear what we need or not like!!

My 3 cents...

Jimbob

[renegadelizard]

ive run into this from time to time with HO and WC that has been "holstered"...th eonly way ive found to beat it is multiple light passes and a lot of stropping...ive even narrowed one side of my head knife to deal with these hides...seems to help a little...