KI4WLG Report post Posted January 11, 2013 Hey y'all! Alright, I have decided (now that I have a stable job, woohoo!) to start getting serious about getting into leather work. I know what I want to be able to do and have a plan on how to get there. I just need advice on tools. Due to budgetary constraints, I'm going to slowly be investing in the tools. My goal is to teach myself and learn how to do tooling somewhat like the Sheridan style, but have my own influences into it. I figure that the best place for me to start is learning to use the swivel knife. So what do I need to look for in a swivel knife? Since I am just starting out, are the cheaper Tandy ones alright or do I need to look for one of the ones with a ruby cutting edge? Anyone have an opinion? -KI4WLG Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted January 11, 2013 I would buy what I need as I need it, many people buy a deluxe kit for about $700.00 and never use some of the items in it. If you want to learn sheridan, I would suggest the seven piece craftool basic 7 tool kit, they are available from Tandy for about $36.00, it comes with a swivel knife, and 6 Sheridan type stamping tools a beveler, camo tool, veiner, pear shader, seeder and a stop. They are not very good tools, however, most of us started on them and they get you in for less than $40.00 so that you can determine whether or not this is for you. I would also buy some veg tan pieces to practice on. Then I would watch every video I could find on YouTube and Tandy, then pay $9.99 for Tandy's one month of videos in the leathercraft library and watch as many of those as I could find. I would search this site for casing, carving, etc posts and peruse them. This is based on your wanting to get started as inexpensively as possible. Many people will say you shouldn't waste your money on these tools as they aren't very good, they aren't very good, however, very good stamping tools are going to average about $30.00 each for ~$180.00 plus $40-$100 for a swivel knife and blade. Your choice, if you like it and stay at it, eventually you will get the better tools or at least some of them. Your choice. Hope that helps, Chief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted January 12, 2013 Hey, I have a rack full of better vintage tools now. I'm doing a job right now where somehow the best choices out of everything I had happened to be those dang cheap z series craftools that came in my kit. So yeah, they'll get you there and get you started. Once you figure out what you need, start building it up. Then you'll still have those cheap ones to get family or friends involved too. Personally, I bought a nice Barry King knife and used my old swivel barrel for a beveling blade. They'll still have uses once you upgrade. So, I'm agreeing with Chief. Get yourself the basic tool kit and a BUNCH of scrap pieces. PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE - cuts, beveling, pear shadiing, and any free sheridan style design you can come across. Sheridan is a style that I think one should really master as is and then start finding ways to tweak it once the skills are there (which is why I don't do it ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted January 12, 2013 Here's my thoughts. You could sure start with the basic sets and see if it all works out for you. Realize that most all of the good,better, and best swivel knife makers sell swivel knife blades too! That is something a lot of new people don't know. I think most all of them make a blade that will fit a Tandy knife. You can upgrade a cheaper knife and and get a handle on what a good blade feels like. As far as stamps, Yes there is a difference. To learn on? Probably not really necessary. If you are going to do passable Sheridan work, you will need some of the specialized Sheridan style tools to do it right, especially the tighter patterns and most stems. Regular bevelers just don't do it. You will also find when trading up to better stamps that in many cases they might run smoother (like bevelers) than the entry level stamps. If it all doesn't work out and you do have some good stamps to sell, they tend to hold their value relative to lower end stamps. Ebay seems to have no shortage of folks willing to pay more for recent tools than you can buy them for from the maker. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted January 12, 2013 (edited) Here's my thoughts. You could sure start with the basic sets and see if it all works out for you. Realize that most all of the good,better, and best swivel knife makers sell swivel knife blades too! That is something a lot of new people don't know. I think most all of them make a blade that will fit a Tandy knife. You can upgrade a cheaper knife and and get a handle on what a good blade feels like. As far as stamps, Yes there is a difference. To learn on? Probably not really necessary. If you are going to do passable Sheridan work, you will need some of the specialized Sheridan style tools to do it right, especially the tighter patterns and most stems. Regular bevelers just don't do it. You will also find when trading up to better stamps that in many cases they might run smoother (like bevelers) than the entry level stamps. If it all doesn't work out and you do have some good stamps to sell, they tend to hold their value relative to lower end stamps. Ebay seems to have no shortage of folks willing to pay more for recent tools than you can buy them for from the maker. Bruce is absolutely right, I forgot but Barry King sells his swivel knife blades to fit a Tandy swivel knife, that's a great idea, Barry charges $15.00 for his blades that fit a Tandy, the only difference is the shaft diameter, the blades are the same ones he sells for his knives. He's also right on that better tools do better work, and that if you don't like it, they are definitely sellable. The Tandy kit stamps probably would have to be given away. That is sort of what I was trying to talk around to, however, I went with the Tandy Kit because I got the feeling you wanted to get in as reasonable as possible to start. I don't buy anything but Barry King Stamps and have replaced nearly all my Tandy stamps over the years, don't have any of the Z series stamps though because I have thrown them away or gave them away or lost them over the years, I bought a Tandy Deluxe Leather Craft Kit in 1971 and that's what got me started, wish I had the kit just for nostalgia, etc. Good Luck and welcome to the wonderful world of Leathercraft. Listen to Bruce, he's one of the legends of the craft. Chief Edited January 12, 2013 by Chief31794 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KI4WLG Report post Posted January 12, 2013 Wow, I really appreciate the speed of responses here and the encouragement. I understand both sides, the get started cheap side and the get the expensive stuff cause it'll resell fairly well. I think I'm going to end up going the latter route there. I've dome some crafty stuff before and think I have a good chance of succeeding in this endeavor, so I'm willing to take the chance and start with the higher end tools. My goal is to get to the point of being able to make some well tooled accessories for my shotgun (shell holding stock cover, a new sling and a scabbard style case). I've got the patience to do lots of practice, so no worries there. Any recommendations on the best thickness of leather to practice on (and a source for scraps?) Thanks for the warm welcome! I'm looking forward to this adventure -KI4WLG Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted January 12, 2013 (edited) Practice pieces can be ordered from Tandy, Springfield Leather Company, and just about any other leather craft store there is. As for thicknes, I would get at least 6 oz but any size over that is acceptable. If you get a couple of pieces of 4oz it's worth carving just to get a feel for carving thinner leathers (probably want to back it with some shelf paper or tape or cardboard (not corrugated) to control stretch just for practice, so no problem. The "Scrap" pieces normally come in a bag and are random as to weight and size. Sometimes you can find them sorted by weight, you'll also generate plenty of practice pieces as you work in this craft for later practicing. Post pictures as you progress to let us know how you're doing. Edited January 12, 2013 by Chief31794 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KI4WLG Report post Posted January 12, 2013 Sounds good, I'll start looking to get lots of leather for practice. One more question (for now ) on the swivel knife. I'm seeing lots of different size options for barrel diameter. What is better to start with? a fatter barrel or a skinny barrel? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesmith648 Report post Posted January 12, 2013 Barrel size is a personal preference and the smaller ones, in my opinion, help with the tighter curves. That being said, however, I have a 1/2" and a 3/8" barrel from Barry King and I use them both depending on the pattern I am doing at the time. The Barry King knives are $45 and include a blade. They are not the cheapest and also not the most expensive either. But the are quality tools. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KI4WLG Report post Posted January 17, 2013 Alright, well I've decided what knife to get (going with the Barry King 7/16ths barrel with a thin 1/4" straight blade). But I realized I forgot to ask a pretty important question... what tool do y'all use to transfer the pattern from tracing paper to the leather? I see that tandy makes a tool for it, as does BK, but di you really need to get the tool or is there a better item out there to use? -KI4WLG Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted January 17, 2013 I transfer patterns with a stylus for the most part. I don't like the bent tip ones. Barry's are more like a pen and pretty comfortable. I also have one a buddy made from some hex rod that's a dandy. For really detailed or tight work I use a mechanical pencil without the lead. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted January 17, 2013 when I started I was using a dead ball-point pen - until the day it decided that even with no ink it was going to put ink on my transfer sheet. The thought of marking the leather scared me so I ended up with a comfy "stylus" that has a pointed end and a ball point end. I prefer the pointed end so it marks thinner lines. You can really use anything that will act like a stylus here. I was using some knitting needles for a couple days when the ink started flowing until I could get something better ordered. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
St8LineGunsmith Report post Posted January 17, 2013 I use a bamboo chop stick that I sharpen with a pencil sharpener then sand the point round to transfer patterns to the leatheri the bamboo is strong but is softer than a metal stylus so it is a little forgiving on the transfer sheet as far as tools it pays to shop around. you can find tools at a discount on E-Bay and Amazon. you can also browse the for sale section here in the forum things like cutting boards measuring tools,and cutting tools can be found at harbor freight toolsfor a frction that you would pay at the leather store. springfield leather has new tools reasonably priced Check out the ergo swivel knife and get a 1/4" angled blade it really feels good in the hand or if you can swing the cash check out the new pro swivel knife tandy just put on the market it is really nice but it is a bit pricey. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites