Briefcase - A Learning Experience

[Paulsleather]

Hi all, I'm new to leather work (about a year) and just have to say what a huge resource this forum has been. I couldn't have made it this far without it.

My first briefcase project was from an attache pattern I purchased from Bighousedaddy.com. Very happy with the pattern and the way the project turned out.

After bringing it to the office, I was asked by a colleague to build a custom designed briefcase for a corporate director. After hearing his design ideas I took a deep breath and agreed to do it. So, after two months of work, I've finished the bag for my first customer.

The pattern work was more challenging than I thought and I had to modify and adjust as I went along. The bag itself is a double gusset, double flap design with an additional front pocket. The pocket also has 3 mini pouches, plus pen and biz card holder. The handle and structure is attached to an oak dowell. The leather used for the exterior of the bag (including strap and shoulder pad) is cut from a 9 ounce, black, Austin Double Shoulder. The interior is lined with 3 ounce naked finish steer hide. I used magnetic closures for both the front and back flap.

Due to my inexperience, I was not fully prepared for the amount of effort it would take to complete the gusset work (especially in the corners). Hand stitching through a combination of 6 layers at the centerline (36 ounces in total) drove me to the edge of insanity. I did manage to come up with a technique to hold the layers together so that I wouldn't completely lose my mind.

Anyway, I'm totally exhaustive but still smiling. Learned my lesson though when it comes to choosing leather thickness for gusset work! Comments welcome -

[King's X]

Great work for your first time! I like the nail idea though I tend to use large paper clips or thick string as temporary clips. I did have an older briefcase that had magnetic closure and found over time that they gave out and had to replace them with Line 24 snaps.

Keep it up and Welcome to the forum!

[electrathon]

Great lookng work and like the design too.

Aaron

[bluesman1951]

Very nicely done. Elegant looking case . I would like to know why you ended up with the huge thickness . Is there no way to design around that perhaps by hiding the gusset attachment on the inside . I like this a lot and in my opinion its shelf ready anywhere . My compliments on a fine project . Bill

[Paulsleather]

Thanks King's X - appreciate the feedback on the magnet closure and the alternatives to my nail approach.

Thanks Electrathon, I'm hoping she likes the design, too, when they present it to her next week!

[Paulsleather]

Thanks, Bluesman1951 - i really appreciate the comments! That's a great question. I'm trying to visualize the suggestion but can't quite wrap my mind around it. Would I stitch it flesh side out and then turn it in side out so that the stitching along the gusset disappears? Sounds like it would look nice. I think the thickness stems from the fact that the two gussets and the center panel that they attach to (each 9 oz), are lined with the 3 oz leather (see last photo). I basically went a little overboard with the thick leather. Thanks again!

[lightningad]

wow - really good looking bag!

Thats just the kind of project i'm working myself up towards. Not sure which worries me more... making it or buying all the leather!

[Paulsleather]

Thanks, Lightningad! I whispered more than a few prayers before putting the knife and hammer to those beautiful (and yes, expensive) double shoulders. Lots of hand wringing and nervousness especially before using the drill press to bore the holes into the leather wrapped oak dowell for the handle loops. When you get the scratch together - just go for it, man!

Thanks again -

[lightningad]

just out of interest - how much leather did you need for the project?

[Paulsleather]

It took a full double shoulder - about 12 sq feet - for the bag. I had to cut the strap from a second one, though. I now have plenty of left over for small laptop sleeves! I kept the bling to the bare minimum in order to keep a lid on costs.