DEADEYE Report post Posted August 20, 2008 (edited) DEADEYE here and glad to be aboard. I am looking at getting half a cow hide and making several scabbards for my rifles but I would really like to know which border stamps were used on this one? TIA, DEADEYE Edited August 20, 2008 by DEADEYE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whinewine Report post Posted August 20, 2008 DEADEYE here and glad to be aboard.I am looking at getting half a cow hide and making several scabbards for my rifles but I would really like to know which border stamps were used on this one? TIA, DEADEYE The innermost row looks like either a camo or a sunburst stamp. The others, I can't make out. If you could take a good closeup of just a section of the tooling, it would be easier to ID. russ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomSwede Report post Posted August 20, 2008 Hi and welcome the board! It'd be really nice to see more rifle scabbards around here and if you need any help don't be afraid to ask for it. People is very helpful here. I agree with Russ about the tools and a better closeup is needed to determine the outer rows. I tried to enlarge and enhance this one in Photoshop but it's just too compressed but one suggestion for the innerrow is Tandys/craftools c431 stamp. Just copy and paste the tool name in the search box to see what it looks like http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com can't directlink to Tandys pages. There is an array of stamps in similar fashion. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DEADEYE Report post Posted August 20, 2008 Thanks all for your help. I just got an e-mule from my guy that has the leather which he says is half a cow. 3 foot by 7 foot. Do you think I could get 4 scabbard out of that? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DEADEYE Report post Posted August 21, 2008 (edited) How about this one? Also would I want to use a stiching groover? Would I want to put a 10 to 12 oz. 3/4 inch leather spacer between the two edges to be sewn to giver it a thicker look? Edited August 21, 2008 by DEADEYE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdb Report post Posted August 21, 2008 I still can't tell yet, but it's starting to look like a mulesfoot pointing to the edge, a double border line, then a mulesfoot pointing down the scabbard, a double border line, then a camo tool Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DEADEYE Report post Posted August 21, 2008 (edited) I still can't tell yet, but it's starting to look like a mulesfoot pointing to the edge, a double border line, then a mulesfoot pointing down the scabbard, a double border line, then a camo tool That's kind what I though by looking at the Tandy catalog rdb. From the edge; Mules Foot: U876 6868 Double border: not sure on this one Mules Foot: U867 6868 Camoflager C831 6831 What do you all think? Also going to use 10-12 oz saddle skirting. $150.00 to much for a side? . Edited August 21, 2008 by DEADEYE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buffalo Report post Posted August 21, 2008 I just made one that same shape 2 weeks ago. I used 10oz. Wicket & Craig lined with Chap leather. It did not need a spacer. Buff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DEADEYE Report post Posted August 25, 2008 OK I got the pic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sodapop Report post Posted August 25, 2008 (edited) what it looks like to me...is he used a stitch groover on the inside edge of the 2 border lines...leaving the center raised...then going over that center area with a mule foot stamp tool...also looks like on the outside of the border edges were also done with the groover then border stamped...cuz you can see the lines that run through the border stamps...versus if it were beveled first then stamped... darryl Edited August 25, 2008 by sodapop Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DEADEYE Report post Posted August 25, 2008 (edited) what it looks like to me...is he used a stitch groover on the inside edge of the 2 border lines...leaving the center raised...then going over that center area with a mule foot stamp tool...also looks like on the outside of the border edges were also done with the groover then border stamped...cuz you can see the lines that run through the border stamps...versus if it were beveled first then stamped...darryl So the groover was used 4 times. Right? . Edited August 25, 2008 by DEADEYE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sodapop Report post Posted August 25, 2008 (edited) yes 4 times...just practice on a piece of scrap and see if its what your looking for...then it looks like the border stamps are then lined up with the outer edge of the outside groove lines...so the line doesn't actually go through the bottom of the stamps... i'll give it a try tomorrow and see if i can match it... darryl Edited August 25, 2008 by sodapop Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DEADEYE Report post Posted August 25, 2008 yes 4 times...just practice on a piece of scrap and see if its what your looking for...then looks like the border stamps are then lined up with the outer edge of the outside groove lines...i'll give it a try tomorrow and see if i can match it... darryl That would great and thanks Sodapop! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sodapop Report post Posted August 25, 2008 (edited) well heres my test piece of that pattern...on the inside grooves i went over them 3 times so i could get the center area to appear more raised... the groove lines will be lighter than the rest...but if your going to dye or antique it...it should be fine...if your just going to oil it etc...not sure if theres a way to brunish those lines a bit before you border stamp them...i know i wouldn't have a steady enough hand to lets say...run some light stain down them without screwin something up hehe i didn't have his other matching border stamp...anyways, is this pretty much what your lookin at?? also run the modeling tool after all stamped along all the lines/edges etc... Edited August 25, 2008 by sodapop Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elton Joorisity Report post Posted August 26, 2008 The double line border was made with a beader blade or a push beader. I'm almost lead to think that t may have been a Mcmillen triple beader. Bruce Johnson would have more insight on this as he snapped up the McMillen triple beader that Bob Douglas had at the show in Sheridan before I even got a look at it!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DEADEYE Report post Posted August 26, 2008 (edited) Wow that looks great Sodapop and thanks for all the effort! Edited August 26, 2008 by DEADEYE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DEADEYE Report post Posted August 26, 2008 (edited) well heres my test piece of that pattern...on the inside grooves i went over them 3 times so i could get the center area to appear more raised...the groove lines will be lighter than the rest...but if your going to dye or antique it...it should be fine...if your just going to oil it etc...not sure if theres a way to brunish those lines a bit before you border stamp them...i know i wouldn't have a steady enough hand to lets say...run some light stain down them without screwin something up hehei didn't have his other matching border stamp...anyways, is this pretty much what your lookin at?? also run the modeling tool after all stamped along all thelines/edges etc... Modeling tool? Linky? Edited August 26, 2008 by DEADEYE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whinewine Report post Posted August 26, 2008 Modeling tool? Linky? Rather than use groovers, (which actually cut out a piece of leather & cut off the top of the grain) you might try to use an adjustable marker (dammit, I can't think of the actual name of it! - but tandy sells them- they can be adjusted to whatever width of leather you wish to mark, so if you mark off your first mark off the edge, then you can follow in the first groove & make a second mark. You can also use a 'beader blade', as Elton suggests (Henley sells them, as does tandy in their ceramic series for swivel knives[ which I really think there is too much drag & I don't like them]) which cuts a border of a certain width along your initial border. I know I'm confusing you at this point, but I'm sorry. russ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sodapop Report post Posted August 26, 2008 (edited) i'm sure you guys are right with the double swivel blade for double borders...then possibly that swivel guide attached??... but now i'm really curious...look close at the line i pointed at...its looks grooved to me...not cut and beveled...and the color is muted in that line/lines like it would be when the grain is removed... Edited August 26, 2008 by sodapop Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whinewine Report post Posted August 26, 2008 (edited) Sodapop, I agree with you that the line you pointed to looks grooved, but look at the very bottom of the pic of the scabbard that Deadeye posted: see how it seems to be raised (rather than grooved) as it curves around toward the back... The line seems to be higher than the sunbursts, which leads me to speculate that it was made with a beader blade, rather than a groover. Really, the design could be made several different ways, each of them equally nice. russ Edited August 26, 2008 by whinewine Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DEADEYE Report post Posted August 26, 2008 Sodapop, I agree with you that the line you pointed to looks grooved, but look at the very bottom of the pic of the scabbard that Deadeye posted: see how it seems to be raised (rather than grooved) as it curves around toward the back... The line seems to be higher than the sunbursts, which leads me to speculate that it was made with a beader blade, rather than a groover. Really, the design could be made several different ways, each of them equally nice.russ That's what I was thinking too. Looks beeaded. Anyone have a pic of the beader blade tool? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whinewine Report post Posted August 26, 2008 That's what I was thinking too. Looks beeaded. Anyone have a pic of the beader blade tool? Deadeye, if you look under tandy's ceramic swivel knife blades, there is a beader blade shown, although it is not listed as a beader blade... it is a blade with two cutting edges. I have a Henley beader that I like much better (I don't care for any of the ceramic blades- I just think they have too much drag for my liking). russ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DEADEYE Report post Posted August 26, 2008 Deadeye, if you look under tandy's ceramic swivel knife blades, there is a beader blade shown, although it is not listed as a beader blade... it is a blade with two cutting edges. I have a Henley beader that I like much better (I don't care for any of the ceramic blades- I just think they have too much drag for my liking).russ Found it! Thanks Whine wine. Do they still make the Henley Beader anymore? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whinewine Report post Posted August 27, 2008 Found it! Thanks Whine wine. Do they still make the Henley Beader anymore? Yes, they do. Contact Cathy Schlim at cschlim@yahoo.com. I know she isn't going to do this again for a while (she did 2 separate orders for us here, and she's definitely burned out from it, but she could get you the actual web address & updated prices [- the web prices are outdated, btw on the website]). Nice, good knives, nice, good blades. I know for sure that Rawhide, on this site, also has Henley blades & knives. Perhaps he could fill you in on updated info. There are others on this site who also have their blades & knives, but I can't, for the life of me, think of who they are...Good luck. russ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
