leather corset and waist cyncher

[calanneh]

Hey folks!

I am helping some friends of my sons make leather corsets. They are wanting to make a few different styles, all to be worn on the outside of their Ren Fest outfit to add to their 'appeal'. Most will be around the abdomen only, but one will have straps over her shoulders too.... Most will have lacing in front and on the side, using a standard 3 piece design.

One of the young ladies is very 'curvie' and has a few 'love handles' around the waist and she also wants it to look like black armour so I have her working with some vegtan. She plans dye it black and to add some studs and lace to it for decorations. This will have lacing in the front and hooks inthe back (subject to change, lol).

The other young ladies are all shaped with slender waists and moderate curves. Our local Tandy rep suggested deer hide. I know this is very soft and comfortable, but it can be a little more expensive and cost is an issue for them. I have suggested using utility splits as they have the color options (without dyeing) and they are soft, yet strong.

None of them want to carve or stamp, they will be decorating with lace and other bobbles......

They are coming over on Thursday afternoon to go purchase the leather, so I have about 24 hours.

Any thoughts from the collective leathercrafter mind?? Any suggestions?

cal

[wildrose]

One of my favorite bodice makers is Lusty Leather: http://www.lustyleather.com/

There is someone here on the board that does amazing work too, but I'm not remembering who...

[calanneh]

Project update....

Here is a pic of one of the young ladies in her paper and masking tape corset. You can also see the pic we were working off of. This is one they found out on the web and we are using as a model.

Mearsured them, drew the measurements in on the pic, drew the design out on large flip chart graph paper and the cut it out and started taping....

Once we got the size right, we cut it into the back panel and the two front panels and then laid it out on the suede and started cutting.....

I will upload some more pix of the leather panels tomorrow....

[tashabear]

Project update....

Here is a pic of one of the young ladies in her paper and masking tape corset. You can also see the pic we were working off of. This is one they found out on the web and we are using as a model.

Mearsured them, drew the measurements in on the pic, drew the design out on large flip chart graph paper and the cut it out and started taping....

Once we got the size right, we cut it into the back panel and the two front panels and then laid it out on the suede and started cutting.....

I will upload some more pix of the leather panels tomorrow....

I hate to say it, but you're not going to get anything close to that shape out of your leather pieces by fitting the girl so loosely and using paper. That's a corset, and they're *not* easy. The best way to make a custom pattern for a shaped garment like that is with a duct tape fitting: http://www.thedragonsrobes.com/taping.html

Also, before you cut the leather, do a mock-up of the pattern in some non-stretchy material. That way you won't waste the leather, but you can work out issues with shaping the pattern pieces. Also, you're going to need to bone it. There won't be any support with just suede -- it will buckle and fold and not have that lovely smooth line.

Edited September 7, 2008 by tashabear

[calanneh]

I hate to say it, but you're not going to get anything close to that shape out of your leather pieces by fitting the girl so loosely and using paper. That's a corset, and they're *not* easy. The best way to make a custom pattern for a shaped garment like that is with a duct tape fitting: http://www.thedragonsrobes.com/taping.html

Also, before you cut the leather, do a mock-up of the pattern in some non-stretchy material. That way you won't waste the leather, but you can work out issues with shaping the pattern pieces. Also, you're going to need to bone it. There won't be any support with just suede -- it will buckle and fold and not have that lovely smooth line.

Thanks for the suggestions Tashabear.

I had thought of the duct tape method as the link shows, however, as three of the four ladies are underage, we are not going to make them that tight. Their parents want the items to enhance their outfits....not them, if you understand my point. I will be using the duct tape method when I make my wife's corset.

The forth one is a mother of 2 and built about like the model in the taping pics and she wants to go more of the tubular bodice look, but a tight corset. She is also a seamstress, but has never worked with leather, so she is helping with some of the points you made as well.

We will be adding boning, the ladies are buying that this weekend. I was told there is a 'sheeting backing' that can be used as well. They are checking into that.

After they got the paper/tape models all done, they cut them apart and traced them onto the leather. I had them add a 3/4" border outside that then cut them out. They folded the border over and glued it down to make a reinforced edge. The grommets will actually go thru this border later.

Below you will see pix of the border/edge, the inside and outside of the back panel and inside of the front panel with the clips holding it all together as it the glue dries. There are a few spots that need trimming, but it is an work in progress.....

More later!

cal

[tashabear]

I understand what you're saying, but there is a difference between "tight-fitting" and "well-fitting". The duct tape would have given you a well-fitting garment, if you made the pattern with enough ease.

To each their own; I'll shut up now.

[calanneh]

I understand what you're saying, but there is a difference between "tight-fitting" and "well-fitting". The duct tape would have given you a well-fitting garment, if you made the pattern with enough ease.

To each their own; I'll shut up now.

LOL...no one asked ya to shut up hun! Advise is always welcome!

I plan keep an eye on the points you have mentioned and let ya know how thrings progress. Unfortunetly, I just couldn't do the duct tape progress with the young ladies.

We have discussed the 'well-fitting' issue and are doing to 'dry fit' the pieces before we punch any hoels for the grommets in case we need to make adjustments.

Yell if you have any other advise. It is always welcome!

cal

[Tina]

A small question,

Howcome you don't get a corset pattern...Any fabric store should have them and they're easy to manipilate to a style desired.

I have made more than 100 real victorian corsets (spiral boning and all) and there is simply not enough pieces in the corset you have there to get a nice fit. it should be at least 10 pieces all around plus the ones holding the busk in the front and the eyelett part in the back. All my corsets were made of 4 layers of material + you'll also need to enforce some band in the waist.

In the size it is made for it should also be double bonings to make sure it sits good...Millions of things to think about I know but making corsets is a small sience of sorts :-)

[tashabear]

A small question,

Howcome you don't get a corset pattern...Any fabric store should have them and they're easy to manipilate to a style desired.

I have made more than 100 real victorian corsets (spiral boning and all) and there is simply not enough pieces in the corset you have there to get a nice fit. it should be at least 10 pieces all around plus the ones holding the busk in the front and the eyelett part in the back. All my corsets were made of 4 layers of material + you'll also need to enforce some band in the waist.

In the size it is made for it should also be double bonings to make sure it sits good...Millions of things to think about I know but making corsets is a small sience of sorts :-)

This. Even if you're not making a proper corset, in order to make it a nicely fitting vest sort of thing, there need to be curved vertical seams along the bust and down the back. I know that sexy isn't the objective, but pretty certainly can be, and pretty doesn't happen when they're wearing sacks. Were there no females around that could help with the fitting for these girls? Even each other?

The reason why I wanted to shut up is because I can be a blunt instrument sometimes, and I didn't want to come across all "UR DOING IT RONG", when you're trying to do something nice for the girls. I often have to ruthlessly suppress my authenticity wonk self when trying to help people who just want to make cute costumes, and it's really hard.

[calanneh]

Hey folks,

This thread went kinda dead the last few weeks as we all ran from and are recovering from Ike. The ladies should be back over this weekend or one evening next week and we will continue our work.

We will be modifying some of the designs based on suggestions from Tasha and Tina (not all us men are hardheaded...hehe).

I'll keep yall posted how it all progresses.

cal

P.S. Tina & Tasha, your comments and help are ALWAYS welcome!!!

[RuehlLeatherWorks]

For the heavier set girl (Considering she wants to have it look more like armor) perhaps you could recommend basing hers on Roman Musculata instead? Of course it would almost HAVE to be from veg tan, but it would probably be more complimentary for what she's looking for.

[calanneh]

For the heavier set girl (Considering she wants to have it look more like armor) perhaps you could recommend basing hers on Roman Musculata instead? Of course it would almost HAVE to be from veg tan, but it would probably be more complimentary for what she's looking for.

Her piece is made from vegtan. It is actually going to be more of a rather large belt...at least that is how it is working out. She has it dye, prepped and dyed already. She needs toi sheen it and add the eyelets, then she will decorate it with bobbles or conchos or whatever stricks her fancy....

She has changed her mind a few times at to whether the two pieces will be laced together in the back or buckled.... I am trying to talk her into either buckles in the front or back one, because this is a rather large item and if she has to go to the restroom in a hurry, unlacing it might not go as fast as she wants.........

More to follow!

cal

[calanneh]

Update on the corsets!!

Ok folks, we have one complete. The young lady will be adding some decoration maybe and some proper lacing (instead of the round leather thong) but it is 99% finished!!!

What ya think???

cal

[twofour878]

Being a ren fair guy myself I think it'll go over quite well with that crowd. It looks good. Would love to see it with the rest of the costume.

[tashabear]

Nice! I'd like to see a pic with her hands down, straight on, so I can see how the shoulders fit, but it does look very nice. Did you bone the placket edges?

[calanneh]

Nice! I'd like to see a pic with her hands down, straight on, so I can see how the shoulders fit, but it does look very nice. Did you bone the placket edges?

Thanks 24878! I think she looks great in it! She is still workign on the rest of the outfit.

They will be over to work on other items sometime with-in the next week. I will have her bring it with her to take the hands down photo. The shoulders laid nice and flat on top.

It is a little loose. As you can see in the pic, it is laced pretty much closed and it is just snuggling up good. She is a lil modest and this was the effect she was going for. She did not want it tight like the sample picture posted at the beginning of the thread. She will be wearing a peasant top under it so that will add a lil more material under it. She is wearing a swimsuit under it in this photo.

We did lace the front backwards...started at the top and worked down. I pointed this out and she is going to correct that when she puts the real lacing in. She is working on a matching collar, fingerless gloves and a belt pouch from the leftover material.

It is not boned at all. That is just the single layer material pieces posted earlier. She may add boning to it later if it gaps or folds up on her.

The most important thing that satisfied me is that she did 90% of the work (I punched most of the holes) and that she loved the finished product!!! She was all smiles after we got her laced in and she saw it in the mirror.

She is now planning on a cartridge pouch to make and give her father for Christmas. Another one hooked and landed by the leather fish!!

cal

[tashabear]

Spiral lacing is more period and uses less string... Easier to adjust, too.

[calanneh]

Spiral lacing is more period and uses less string... Easier to adjust, too.

Thanks Tasha!

I will pass this link onto her.

cal

[hivemind]

I gotta be honest, it looks more like what I'd call a jerkin than a corset.

[calanneh]

I gotta be honest, it looks more like what I'd call a jerkin than a corset.

Correct, it doesn't not pull in as tight as what you think a corset would, but she did not want it tight either.

We have discussed making the back section about 2" narrower to give her more lacing room.

She is going to wear it on Halloween and see how it feels over her costume and then decide if she wants to tighten it up before the Ren Fest trip in Nov.

She and the other young ladies will be back this Friday to work other items. We should have the black corset ready then. It is a little smaller on the young lady it is made for, but it does have lacing room. She did not want to tighten hers any as it still gives her a little room to grow.

They are making matching chokers, fingerless gloves, belt pouches, etc etc from their leftover leather.

I will post more pix this weekend.

Keep the thoughts coming and I will keep passing them along to the ladies.

Cal

[calanneh]

And there're done!!!

Thought you folks might like to see the finished products. They ladies were over this weekend and they finished their corsets. They added the boning and got em all laced up!

They will both be adding a different lace before they wear them with their costumes. We just used wax thread to get them laced and check everything.

Remember that the ladies did 90% of the work on this themselves and that this was a first project for them both. They are not perfect but the ladies were both ecstatic and loved their outcome. They are both comfortable and do not think they will have any issues wearing them for a full weekend at the Ren Fest.

The young lady in blue even wore hers up to Tandy to show it off to Tena (Tandy Manager) who has been helping with advice too.

They are also working on matching chokers and fingerless gloves made from the leftover suede.

I have enjoyed helping them and I will be making one for my wife soon. We are going to the TX Ren Fest on Nov 15th and so I have to have it finished by then!!

Thanks for all the advise (especially Tasha & Tina)!!!

Please let me know what ya think!

cal

Edited October 13, 2008 by calanneh

[ArtS]

They did a great job and look very happy about it. You can't ask for more than that.

Congrats.

Art

[calanneh]

They did a great job and look very happy about it. You can't ask for more than that.

Congrats.

Art

Thanks Art!!

Their faces say it all...and the best part, they did 90% of it themselves. They will be able to wear them and if a friend or somebody compliments the garments, the girls can say with pride that they made them!

The one in blue plans to make her father some type of Christmas present from vegtan. We have discussed a few items but she is not sure yet. I can't wait to help her get started on it.

She is working on a belt to go with her Ren Fest costume now. She traced and re-traced a Celtic pattern on a full lenth belt blank last weekend. She is going to dye it black and then add silver paint on the knotwork. Then sheen it and add an antiqued buckle. More on that later as well.

William