Members calanneh Posted August 20, 2008 Members Report Posted August 20, 2008 Hey folks! I am helping some friends of my sons make leather corsets. They are wanting to make a few different styles, all to be worn on the outside of their Ren Fest outfit to add to their 'appeal'. Most will be around the abdomen only, but one will have straps over her shoulders too.... Most will have lacing in front and on the side, using a standard 3 piece design. One of the young ladies is very 'curvie' and has a few 'love handles' around the waist and she also wants it to look like black armour so I have her working with some vegtan. She plans dye it black and to add some studs and lace to it for decorations. This will have lacing in the front and hooks inthe back (subject to change, lol). The other young ladies are all shaped with slender waists and moderate curves. Our local Tandy rep suggested deer hide. I know this is very soft and comfortable, but it can be a little more expensive and cost is an issue for them. I have suggested using utility splits as they have the color options (without dyeing) and they are soft, yet strong. None of them want to carve or stamp, they will be decorating with lace and other bobbles...... They are coming over on Thursday afternoon to go purchase the leather, so I have about 24 hours. Any thoughts from the collective leathercrafter mind?? Any suggestions? cal Quote William Tandy Store #17 800-772-2629 Union City, CA
Members wildrose Posted August 20, 2008 Members Report Posted August 20, 2008 One of my favorite bodice makers is Lusty Leather: http://www.lustyleather.com/ There is someone here on the board that does amazing work too, but I'm not remembering who... Quote Holly Moore Wild Rose Creations http://www.wrcleather.com
Members calanneh Posted September 7, 2008 Author Members Report Posted September 7, 2008 Project update.... Here is a pic of one of the young ladies in her paper and masking tape corset. You can also see the pic we were working off of. This is one they found out on the web and we are using as a model. Mearsured them, drew the measurements in on the pic, drew the design out on large flip chart graph paper and the cut it out and started taping.... Once we got the size right, we cut it into the back panel and the two front panels and then laid it out on the suede and started cutting..... I will upload some more pix of the leather panels tomorrow.... Quote William Tandy Store #17 800-772-2629 Union City, CA
tashabear Posted September 7, 2008 Report Posted September 7, 2008 (edited) Project update....Here is a pic of one of the young ladies in her paper and masking tape corset. You can also see the pic we were working off of. This is one they found out on the web and we are using as a model. Mearsured them, drew the measurements in on the pic, drew the design out on large flip chart graph paper and the cut it out and started taping.... Once we got the size right, we cut it into the back panel and the two front panels and then laid it out on the suede and started cutting..... I will upload some more pix of the leather panels tomorrow.... I hate to say it, but you're not going to get anything close to that shape out of your leather pieces by fitting the girl so loosely and using paper. That's a corset, and they're *not* easy. The best way to make a custom pattern for a shaped garment like that is with a duct tape fitting: http://www.thedragonsrobes.com/taping.html Also, before you cut the leather, do a mock-up of the pattern in some non-stretchy material. That way you won't waste the leather, but you can work out issues with shaping the pattern pieces. Also, you're going to need to bone it. There won't be any support with just suede -- it will buckle and fold and not have that lovely smooth line. Edited September 7, 2008 by tashabear Quote
Members calanneh Posted September 7, 2008 Author Members Report Posted September 7, 2008 I hate to say it, but you're not going to get anything close to that shape out of your leather pieces by fitting the girl so loosely and using paper. That's a corset, and they're *not* easy. The best way to make a custom pattern for a shaped garment like that is with a duct tape fitting: http://www.thedragonsrobes.com/taping.html Also, before you cut the leather, do a mock-up of the pattern in some non-stretchy material. That way you won't waste the leather, but you can work out issues with shaping the pattern pieces. Also, you're going to need to bone it. There won't be any support with just suede -- it will buckle and fold and not have that lovely smooth line. Thanks for the suggestions Tashabear. I had thought of the duct tape method as the link shows, however, as three of the four ladies are underage, we are not going to make them that tight. Their parents want the items to enhance their outfits....not them, if you understand my point. I will be using the duct tape method when I make my wife's corset. The forth one is a mother of 2 and built about like the model in the taping pics and she wants to go more of the tubular bodice look, but a tight corset. She is also a seamstress, but has never worked with leather, so she is helping with some of the points you made as well. We will be adding boning, the ladies are buying that this weekend. I was told there is a 'sheeting backing' that can be used as well. They are checking into that. After they got the paper/tape models all done, they cut them apart and traced them onto the leather. I had them add a 3/4" border outside that then cut them out. They folded the border over and glued it down to make a reinforced edge. The grommets will actually go thru this border later. Below you will see pix of the border/edge, the inside and outside of the back panel and inside of the front panel with the clips holding it all together as it the glue dries. There are a few spots that need trimming, but it is an work in progress..... More later! cal Quote William Tandy Store #17 800-772-2629 Union City, CA
tashabear Posted September 7, 2008 Report Posted September 7, 2008 I understand what you're saying, but there is a difference between "tight-fitting" and "well-fitting". The duct tape would have given you a well-fitting garment, if you made the pattern with enough ease. To each their own; I'll shut up now. Quote
Members calanneh Posted September 7, 2008 Author Members Report Posted September 7, 2008 I understand what you're saying, but there is a difference between "tight-fitting" and "well-fitting". The duct tape would have given you a well-fitting garment, if you made the pattern with enough ease. To each their own; I'll shut up now. LOL...no one asked ya to shut up hun! Advise is always welcome! I plan keep an eye on the points you have mentioned and let ya know how thrings progress. Unfortunetly, I just couldn't do the duct tape progress with the young ladies. We have discussed the 'well-fitting' issue and are doing to 'dry fit' the pieces before we punch any hoels for the grommets in case we need to make adjustments. Yell if you have any other advise. It is always welcome! cal Quote William Tandy Store #17 800-772-2629 Union City, CA
Members Tina Posted September 8, 2008 Members Report Posted September 8, 2008 A small question, Howcome you don't get a corset pattern...Any fabric store should have them and they're easy to manipilate to a style desired. I have made more than 100 real victorian corsets (spiral boning and all) and there is simply not enough pieces in the corset you have there to get a nice fit. it should be at least 10 pieces all around plus the ones holding the busk in the front and the eyelett part in the back. All my corsets were made of 4 layers of material + you'll also need to enforce some band in the waist. In the size it is made for it should also be double bonings to make sure it sits good...Millions of things to think about I know but making corsets is a small sience of sorts :-) Quote "He who works with his hands is a laborer. He who works with his hands, and his head is a craftsman. He who works with his hands, and his head, and his heart, is An Artist" http://vildkorpens-laderlya.deviantart.com http://tupali.deviantart.com/
tashabear Posted September 8, 2008 Report Posted September 8, 2008 A small question,Howcome you don't get a corset pattern...Any fabric store should have them and they're easy to manipilate to a style desired. I have made more than 100 real victorian corsets (spiral boning and all) and there is simply not enough pieces in the corset you have there to get a nice fit. it should be at least 10 pieces all around plus the ones holding the busk in the front and the eyelett part in the back. All my corsets were made of 4 layers of material + you'll also need to enforce some band in the waist. In the size it is made for it should also be double bonings to make sure it sits good...Millions of things to think about I know but making corsets is a small sience of sorts :-) This. Even if you're not making a proper corset, in order to make it a nicely fitting vest sort of thing, there need to be curved vertical seams along the bust and down the back. I know that sexy isn't the objective, but pretty certainly can be, and pretty doesn't happen when they're wearing sacks. Were there no females around that could help with the fitting for these girls? Even each other? The reason why I wanted to shut up is because I can be a blunt instrument sometimes, and I didn't want to come across all "UR DOING IT RONG", when you're trying to do something nice for the girls. I often have to ruthlessly suppress my authenticity wonk self when trying to help people who just want to make cute costumes, and it's really hard. Quote
Members calanneh Posted September 25, 2008 Author Members Report Posted September 25, 2008 Hey folks, This thread went kinda dead the last few weeks as we all ran from and are recovering from Ike. The ladies should be back over this weekend or one evening next week and we will continue our work. We will be modifying some of the designs based on suggestions from Tasha and Tina (not all us men are hardheaded...hehe). I'll keep yall posted how it all progresses. cal P.S. Tina & Tasha, your comments and help are ALWAYS welcome!!! Quote William Tandy Store #17 800-772-2629 Union City, CA
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