New German Plough Gauge

[Trox]

I bought this German Plough Gauge on a Norwegian auction site for 37$, when I received it today I could see it was a complete bargain. The lady who sold it had other tools for sale too, however they where all priced to "regular" used tool prices.

It is a very well made tool, I had to sharpen up the knife because it had never been used/sharpened before.

I did some research and found out it is made by M. Paffrath OH in Remsheid, Germany. The German company also make other leather tools like pliers and punches http://www.paffrath-remscheid.de/index_eng.html . The new price of this tool is more than 300 Euro, I almost feel bad about buying it that cheap. She obviously have not paid that much for it herself. I do not know the story behind it, perhaps she selling the tools for somebody who has past away; all other tools was priced correctly to what they was worth.

This plough has an unusual attachment, some kind of material wedge that goes in a slot to the right of the blade. The purpose is either to reduce knife drag or to compress the leather against the material guide. It did not work at all with firm leather, perhaps it is intended for use on soft leather I do not know. Also the knife is set up in an inside angle against the material fence, I do not know if it is made like this intensionally or by mistake. German tool makers seldom makes mistakes, and it cuts leather very well.

The knife is exactly like a Blanchard knife and fit their plough as well. I do not like the guides locking screw, it makes the tool look cheap. They should have been using something better than this thin screw, it was also bent when I got it. A other detail i do not like is how the knife is attached, it might be practical but look cheap compared to the other tools. It is clearly inspired by the Blanchard tool, with some improvements it could have been a alternative to it too.

This tool is not molded in one piece of brass like the Blanchard is, the ruler and the knife base is made in two parts that is either glued or soldered together. All parts on this tool looks like they are made in a CNC machine, on a Blanchard plough all parts are molded. The German tool is all solid brass an weight 875 grams, when the Blanchard is made lighter. I do believe lighter is better, when these tools mostly is lifted by their knife handles. This reduce the risk of the knife blade to break off in the attachment slot, as they used to do with the older tools heavier frame.

The knifes look the same, however the Blanchard has thicker steel.

A 15 cm Blanchard plough with one blade costs 319 Euro before tax and this one costs 245. Still I would rate the Blanchard as a better tool for the money.

I attach pictures of the tool with and without the wedge. Compared to a 10 cm. Blanchard and compared to a 15 cm Mayer Flamery of the older French pattern. Not much has happened in hundred years, old is still the best.

I am interested in knowledge or opinions about the wedge and the tool in general.

In advance thanks.

Tor

[bruce johnson]

Tor,

At that price, you stole it. The blade is worth three times that by itself. From the looks I sure agree with everything you wrote. That wedge looks like it would do nothing positive. I want my leather to ride down and flat to the right of the blade. That wedge can't do anything but make it drag and want to drive you off line it looks like to me. The maker adding about $3 more for prettier and more substantial screws would dress this up a lot too.

In your honor I just had a snort of Linie Aquavit and time to call it a night!

[spooky]

Can I butt in and get an opinion on a recent Ebay buy? I bought this plough gauge for abou $125 Australian. Any good, and if so, how do I clean it up? Blade seems reasonably sharp. Thanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=350659300546

[bruce johnson]

Spooky, Can you post a picture? I can't get the link to work.

[WinterBear]

Spooky, Can you post a picture? I can't get the link to work.

(Maybe this is it Bruce: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/350659300546?nma=true&si=SDiZVJN483Aym1NGRQrddTr4Fu0%3D&rt=nc&_trksid=p4340.l2557&orig_cvip=true)

[Trox]

Tor,

At that price, you stole it. The blade is worth three times that by itself. From the looks I sure agree with everything you wrote. That wedge looks like it would do nothing positive. I want my leather to ride down and flat to the right of the blade. That wedge can't do anything but make it drag and want to drive you off line it looks like to me. The maker adding about $3 more for prettier and more substantial screws would dress this up a lot too.

In your honor I just had a snort of Linie Aquavit and time to call it a night!

Thank you and "Skål min venn",

Thats right I almost feel like a criminal at that price, I will call the lady to night and ask for the story behind the sale. Good luck with that Aquavit, if its a Løiten linje then I know it very well. I am born not far from the distillery, they make it from potato spirit from Hedmark Commune. Originally they put that cumin and other spices in to take away the fusel taste, the spirits was very bad in the old days. Then became a tradition and they used even when the spirits was 96 percent alcohol. You get a terrible hangover when you drink to much of it, he he.

You are right about the wedge it totally useless. It seems like the maker of this tool do not have the same love of leather tools as we have. They did not even bother to put a maker stamp on it, only a number and a date (# 9, 2006). The locking screw is very bad, I have to find something else to replace it. The knife has a black color handle, ( all true the wood) but light wood type. The steel is thin, but seems of good quality ( it gets pretty sharp). Like on my Blanchard plough ( of the latest pattern) the knife has the edge on the right side and is flat on the guide side.

I like that kind of edge, I feel it helps to steer the leather against the guide. I wonder why the knife is set up in a inside angle against the guide, it should be 90 degree (right angle). Nevertheless, this has a angle about 98 to 100 degrees. Then the edge of the knife points at two or three mm mark on the ruler instead of zero as it should do. I want to write to the makers and ask about it, I can easily straiten up the knife base by grinding of some material of it (then it will point at the zero mark). Thanks for you comment Bruce, I always appreciate your wise opinions.

Thanks

Tor

[bruce johnson]

Winterbear,

Thanks for the link. Spooky, that looks fine to me. You can take it all apart and polish it all up. The old Dixon plough knives have been good for me. You can sharpen that blade up to better than shaving sharp and it ought fly right through whatever you throw it into. I haven't seen that handled screw on the back edge to bind the fence before. Most of my Dixons have had either a handled screw on top that binds down or a thumbscrew on the back. They always keep you guessing.

Tor,

Thanks for the Aquavit lesson. I heard from a Finn who likes one makers that has a lot of cinnamon flavor to it. I will have to inspect my bottle a little closer and see if it is Loiten. I know it has a picture of a ship on the label. On the backside of the label you can read through the bottle the sailing and return dates from the aging trip to Australia. It is a little under half empty now, so I can nread the dates clearly.

[Art]

Bruce,

After half a bottle of Wild Turkey, I can't read anything. Now folks know how we read all these posts

Art

It is a little under half empty now, so I can nread the dates clearly.

[spooky]

(Maybe this is it Bruce: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/350659300546?nma=true&si=SDiZVJN483Aym1NGRQrddTr4Fu0%3D&rt=nc&_trksid=p4340.l2557&orig_cvip=true)

Thanks Winter Bear, I went to bed and forgot aboutnit until this morning. Okay, newbie question... how do I polish it up? I don't have access to any mechanical tools, so is it down to steel wool and elbow grease? Or is steel wool too harsh. Sorry, very, very much a newbie, who sometimes feels like they know zip!

[bruce johnson]

very fine steel wool would be my choice for the steel. I'd use somethng like Brasso or the equivalent polishing compound you might find there for the roller.