MarshallW Report post Posted February 18, 2013 I'm trying to start my first project (wallet) and finding a ton of information, which is both a blessing and a hurdle. I've visited my local Tandy a few times and seem to be pointed in the right direction without getting the complete story so I'm hoping to get some better clarification here. The wallet I'm making is a kit wallet with a few modifications I've cut myself. Using the Art of Hand Sewing book as a guide, I'd like to follow the hand stitching model described which shows 3 needles being used for the process. My question is, are all the three needles the same? I replaced the 'heavy duty needle' on the Tandy awl I'm using with a size 5. I only bought the one needle so I'm thinking I need another two as shown in the book. Are all needles created the same (i.e. all needles can be used for hand sewing whether they're labelled 'awl' or not)? The one for my awl seems like it may be thicker than necessary at its base. While searching for additional size 5 needle some are measured differently than sizes, is this in mm? Are these not used for hand stitching? Hope my confusion makes sense. Thanks in advance! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted February 18, 2013 It sounds like you are trying to use a jiffy stitcher. If so the first step to hand sewing is to store it in the drawer and a memory of a tool to not use. There are a few ways to punch your holes, an awl is the most classic way to do it. It makes a little slit, you then use your two needles to saddle stitch. You can punch the holes in other methods too, there will be a lot of confusing information posted. There is more than one way to do it. Big oversized holes are about the only way that is "wrong". The big eye needles are hard to use too. They break a lot and are hard to pull too. Harness needles are a better choice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MarshallW Report post Posted February 18, 2013 I haven't heard of it referred to as a jiffy stitcher before. I had imagined using it just to create the hole without the thread attached like it is in the photo at this link: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/search/searchresults/1216-00.aspx Sewing Awl Kit Item #1216-00 I tried posting the picture but was told the file extension name wasn't permitted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted February 18, 2013 That is it. Everyone buys one then realizes it will never make good sewing. A real awl is not much more than a needle. it pokes a hole. You them use two needles to sew back and forthe with the thread. This is more what you are looking for: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/3318-01.aspx The blades are pretty bad though, they need to be very sharp and hold an edge well, you likely will find that it will not. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MarshallW Report post Posted February 18, 2013 Happy to unnecessarily fatten Tandy's bottom line . One last question (for now): how do I know which size blade to get? Thanks for all your help electrathon! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted February 19, 2013 The awl size is a reflection of the thread size. I have a small one I usually use. I personally feel if the needle falls through the hole easily the hole is too big. A lot of people like larger slots. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
St8LineGunsmith Report post Posted February 19, 2013 making a wallet you will definitely want to use the small awl blade and a split piece of artificial sinew will fit in a large glovers needle the small blade is pretty much all I use but I do have a medium for just in case. you will want to sharpen the awl blade so it will glide through the leather. the small harness needles are a good match to use with the small awl blade and a full (un split) piece of artificial sinew. small tapestry needles work good too in a pinch I only use artificial sinew and it will thread into a "0" harness needle any thread thicker than sinew will require a larger needle than the "0' harness needle but tapestry needles have a large eye that will accommodate heavier threads Diamond Awl Blade another thing you want to do before you start sewing is to glue your parts together by using contact cement on the stitch lines this will make the stitching process easier and the wallet will never come apart. the sewing awl has its uses just not on leather. they are great for sewing heavy canvas and nylon straps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites