Antiquing & Resist Issues

[Destrier]

Truth is that this masking fluid is not going to shorten your worktime, possible even make it longer but, the end result is going to be worth the hazzle using the fluid in my book.

If it gives a superior end result, I'm definitely ok with putting in a little more time and effort. For the most part I would like to stick with Tandy products just because being able to make a quick trip in to the store and pick up anything you're short on is preferable to having to wait weeks for shipping (and paying for shipping!), but I'm certainly willing to try new products. Where do you buy the masking fluid? Is it something an art supply store might carry?

[Cyberthrasher]

This is the stuff I'm using. I got it off ebay and it will last a LONG time. If you're searching, make sure to include "woodland scenics" so you don't get some not so family friendly results.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/woo/wooc1204.htm?source=froogle&gclid=CPKkroTMz7UCFQk4nAodnDgANw

Tina, as far as timing, I think it will be best used for me on natural stuff like one I'm just wrapping up. I just did one with the masking all around on natural and some flame work while I airbrushed the background black. I have about 2 hours into the masking on it and about 3 1/2 hours into the dye job. But, I should add that I was scared of the latex's ability to truly mask if it got fully coated with dye (my first test didn't go so well), so I hand brushed around anyway to keep from having to spray too heavily next to the masking. I think that time can be cut back pretty well with the multiple coats and less fear

[Destrier]

Sorry, I'm not entirely clear on the use of the masking fluid - that would be for something you don't want to have any colour at all (including antiquing), right? Like the border areas on that fantastic chamfron? While I can see that coming in handy, at the moment I'm more looking for something that I can antique over and get those darker lines in the carving, like in the braiding, coat of arms, and filigree on the chamfron. Or did you use the masking fluid on those parts too, Tina?

[Tina]

The masking fluid can be found in any good art store...Maybe even Joanns/Michaels have it? I use to buy it from MrArt online in the US.

Masking fluid blocks of something that you don't want to have touched at all. When doing antiquing the traditional way you put a resist on top of everything you want to antique, then the antique paste after that. I always let the resist (super shene or others in the same category) dry for at least 24 hours and I do put it on in 2 layers.

On the picture of the chamfron there is no resist under the brown, I used the antique as a color for the leather in this case, putting it on in a cirkular fashion to get some movement going on in the color. Then I airbrushed the resist and more antiquing over it to get those black lines in to the groves. Only after doing all that did I remove the masking fluid and then I air brushed the whole thing again with an acryllic finisher (I use Angelus brand of resist and dye) so I did not disturb the antique/paintjob by using a sponge/rag or brush.

I hope this makes sense, I'm not the best to explain things but I'll always try :-)

[Tina]

I should add that I was scared of the latex's ability to truly mask if it got fully coated with dye (my first test didn't go so well),

I have found that 2 layers of the masking fluid is the way to go, it has to be thick enough and that's not easy in just one go. I'm also checking after the 2 layers to see if it looks to translucent, then I know I have to ad some more on those parts.

Edited February 25, 2013 by Tina

[Destrier]

That was a great explanation Tina, thank you!

Now two of you have mentioned airbrushing... I have some questions about that as well but I suppose I should start a new thread rather than completely derailing this one.