billymac814 Report post Posted April 8, 2013 I've managed to never need to set a spot up until now. I have a set of saddle bags that came into the shop to have spots set on them, they will be 3/8" round spots. In the past I've used domed rivets in place of spots and I have the setters for those, should I just do the same here or should I use spots, if I use spots what's the process on setting them, do they pierce the leather without cutting slits first? There will be a total of about 50 of them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted April 8, 2013 How deep is the dome on your setter? I was just looking at some spot setters and they look basically the same as a domed rivet setter. Try it and see I saw some mention before of using small holes instead of slits. All that said, this video convinces me to get the spot setters Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted April 8, 2013 I think I'll get the setter, I've had enough people asking about them in the past that I'm sure ill use it again. I've always been able to get away with using domed rivets but that looks easy enough and I don't have to punch holes first. The only thing I don't get is punching them into the rubber first, I'd think if you had a steel backer that it would clinch the posts in at the same time. Ill have to experiment with that. The domed rivet setter may work but I have a feeling that the prongs might end up bending since they won't be covered up. What's the going rate on spot setting? I charged 2 bucks each on these ones. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted April 8, 2013 What's the going rate on spot setting? I charged 2 bucks each on these ones. Let me know when you figure that out With the orders picking up over the last couple of months, I've been thinking about adjusting my pricing structure. I guess you could see how long it takes you to do about 10 of them for an average and then figure out how that matches to your preferred hourly income (since I know you don't have a set hourly rate). If it takes you an hour to do 10 (I hope you're faster than that) then $8 a piece puts you where you need to be. Extreme example, but it portrays my thought Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted April 12, 2013 I got my setter and spots in the other day. I tried it using the method in the video which does work but it seems easier to just use the anvil that comes with it which clinches the spot all in one step. It'll be a while before I start on his bags but I should be able to set the 50 in an hour, if not I'm doing something wrong. So 2.00 a spot seems pretty fair for that many of them. If it was only one or two I'd charge more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted April 12, 2013 If it was only one or two I'd charge more. yeah, mass production makes that stuff much more cost effective. Now I'm wondering why that guy wasn't using the anvil with them though. Maybe he lost his. I've seen a few of his videos though and kind of wonder about some of the things he does. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
raysouth Report post Posted April 13, 2013 Hello Billymac, Appears as though the setters are working out for you. I use a rubber mat as shown in the video, when laying out and setting spots in a line or small pattern. When doing a straight line, I begin with first spot at one edge and allow it to penetrate the mat, which in turn, holds the piece in place while I set the remaining spots. At times, I can just do a pattern/design in center of mat using the same principal. When setting a large amount of the spots it was easier for me to just flip it and tap the tabs flat with tack hammer or other tool. Didn't have to move the anvil around when using that method. Anything that works, is the order of the day, I suppose. God Bless. Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted April 13, 2013 Ray, Thanks, that makes a lot of sense actually, the one thing I noticed when using the anvil is it is sometimes difficult to line up the spot with the anvil so the rubber mat does make sense. The only problem ill have on this job is that they are existing saddle bags so they won't lay flat, ill have to get creative. I think I'll put a piece of rubber on my boot jack last and use that so I can get behind where I need it. When you're laying them out do you use one of the points as the reference mark to get them evenly spaced? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted April 15, 2013 Raysouth is right about the anvil. The Tandy video shows them driving the spot into a piece of leather, I believe. Then they take the anvil and re-strike the spot into the dish on the anvil and then flip to the flat side of the anvil and strike again to flatten the pins fully. To my way of thinking, 3 strikes and you're out <g>.. The problem with the anvil is just what billymac stated. It's really hard to line the pins of the spot up with the dish in the anvil before you strike it. Especially with the smaller spots. If you're the least little bit off, it will either roll the pin or fold one under the spot and one away from it... Not a good thing. I strike the spot into a piece of scrap, then when I'm finished with all of them, I go back and use a door hinge pin that I mounted into a wooden file handle to fold the pins flat and give them a tap with the heel of my hand on the handle to "set" them. Very fast and works great. Later. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites