kayrunp Report post Posted April 15, 2013 I have burnished the edges following the Bob Parks method, minus any dyeing or Neat lac. But as you can see from the photo the wear of the edges is just dreadful. It gets really dirty and frays. Is the Neat lac going to solve this? or is it Clear lac or Wyoshene now? What is this stuff? I always got the impression it was like a plastic coating so I didn't want to use. It seems alot of people are burnishing and not using this stuff or they don't speak of it, or am I not burnishing enough to hold the edge. any help is much appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted April 15, 2013 All those products are basically the same thing. I'm not sure if Wyoshene is any different, but I know ClearLac and Neatlac are the EXACT same product made by the same company. Neatlac was just labeled and marketed for Tandy. They are all a lacquer product, so it's not plastic at all. You say you're following Hidepounder's method. Is it exact, or have you taken any liberties? What kind of use does the item see? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kayrunp Report post Posted April 15, 2013 Bracelets and key rings. It's not exact as I don't have some of the tools he has. and I flip the sand and edging since i sand by hand. I have a dremel with the cocobolo burnisher i am using. and the polishing i do by hand. and I have used beeswax over paraffin. I am not looking for a super gloss edge like bob's but I would like it to stay smooth in wear and tear. I figure i am not burnishing enough or I need to lacquer it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted April 15, 2013 Sounds like you're basically doing what I do. Here's my steps. bevel edges sand with 150 - 200 grit on lightly moistened edge dye sand with 400 grit coat with glycerin saddle soap bar dremel burnisher apply finish (resolene, clear-lac, whatever you want) rub down with beeswax on a piece of denim The gloss edge comes with smoothness. Once I'm done with the first sanding, things are looking pretty smooth at that point. I found that I have to dye before the 400 grit because it's too smooth by that point and my dye has problems taking well. By the time the 400 is done, it's pretty much a finished product. After that, burnishing with saddle soap just helps to seal down the pores and make sure nothing's going to pop up on me. From there, the finish seals it all in and the wax helps fill in any spots that may not be perfectly level while offering another layer of protection. I'm happy with my edges, my customers are happy, and I don't have anything looking frayed after it all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kayrunp Report post Posted April 15, 2013 Is there a difference between resolene and clear lac? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted April 15, 2013 Yes, a big one in terms of product. Resolene is a flexible water resistant acrylic, where the clear lac can be pretty rigid in comparison (don't take that as it's a rigid product, because it's not). Clear-lac is pretty water resistant too, but I just have the most luck with Resolene. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kayrunp Report post Posted April 16, 2013 And is leather sheen like resolene but less durable? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites