kayrunp

Hello, I made a wallet out of the 5 oz leather I have...and of course it's a giant brick that you can't close when filled. For wallet interiors, is it wiser to spend the money on a splitter or order a whole hide already split? Are wallet and card holder pockets mostly 2 oz? Thanks, KP

I think I found the tension screw holding the thin metal spring, but the left screw closes to me won't turn. I can't get it to move, and I fear I will destroy it with too much force. I think I need to loosen it out so I can get some tension on the bottom thread. Does that whole piece come out so i can try and get the screw to turn? Thanks, KP

I am having the hardest time with my stitch on the consew 226. The top thread is almost a straight line. The big screw holding the arm in the bobbin area is tighten all the way down. I noticed it could be slid forward or backwards but would interrupt the movement too much in one way. I have read about a spring. is that the spring arm? I don't see a spring anywhere. That might be my problem. Maybe I am tightening the wrong screw? I also noticed the whole thing seems a little loose, the part you but the bobbin case into, don't know where to tighten that up and if it's suppose to be tight. Any resources or help would be much appreciated. Thanks, KP

Thanks for your help. I will check into it.

I am looking for great quality full grain soft buttery leather for pouches and bags. Who is a good supplier for this in the US? I would love to get it from a us tannery. I have visited a few tanneries, but most seem to be doing shoe leather and military leather with a lot of finishing. Thanks, KP

Hello, I am looking for zipper tape in #5 brass in different colors. any recommendations? I want to make my own sizes and use my choice of pulls. Thanks for your help, kp

It's actually not being shipped in this case but will just be stored at the store. I was hoping the packaging could keep it clean labeled and able to withstand being stored and moved around without getting marked up , scuffed or dirty. The small stuff I make is in linen bags, but the waxed canvas tote that picks up a lot of lint and stuff i could use some sort of plastic bag for.

Hello! Not positive this is the right section. I received my first wholesale order for my leather bracelets and wallets. I make little cloth bags for the smaller pieces. I was thinking for storage and style number labeling, maybe i should put them in a plastic bag on top of that. Would the leather go moldy? I also have bigger items like tote bags, and I am not sure how to package them for these orders to protect them in from scuffs and dirt. I was thinking http://www.uline.com/BL_208/Uline-2-Mil-Reclosable-Bags?keywords=uline%20reclosable%20poly%20bags for the smaller stuff. not sure what for the bigger bags. any suggestions? Thanks, KP

It was suppose to be the best grade. They said no problem and are taking it back.

I got a natural carving hide that has the pattern of the shelving on the flesh side. It's sort of a honeycomb pattern. Is That an acceptable reason for a return? I am not dying it so this pattern is a problem.

I did reduce by 50%. It has soaked in and is still too dark . Not sure what I can use to remove some of the dye. Alcohol? Acetone?

I dyed a piece too dark with angelous dyes. Is there a way to lighten? Thanks!

I started following bob parks edge process. When I went to dye, I got a lot of streaking in the edge area. I was thinking it was the saddle soap that was keeping the dye from penetrating as well. Then I did it with just water for burnishing and the wet area created a darker halo when I dyed. I am using the deglazer, neatsfoot oil, then dying. I also noticed with the yellow saddle soap it stains English bridle, it gave me these permanent dark spots. Thanks for any help

I ended up getting some greenlee diagonal cutting pliers. My wee hands seem to be able to mange these and they are sharp and appear well made. Now onto getting a nice dome on these rivets. Thanks for your help!

I am in need of a button stud with 5/16 or 3/8 rivet. solid Brass. My supplier is out of stock and I need them ASAP. I saw weavers, but they have a short rivet and are much more in price. I saw the Ohio travel one in the catalog, but they don't specify the rivet size. Has any one order those? Any other place I should look?

The stitching on my consew is a bit jumpy and looks a bit like a long line. My lower bobbin tension is as tight as it gets. I am also wondering if I need a longer stitch for heavy canvas and leather?

it was the 6 inch pair.

Hi Bruce, Did I get the wrong tool? It's too narrow of an opening for the rivet. Hi Bruce, Did I get the wrong tool? It's too narrow of an opening for the rivet.

Thanks Bruce and dirt clod! I found a pair of compound action end nippers on eBay and bought them, hopefully this will help me out.

I bought 7in end nippers from Home Depot for the task of cutting the copper rivets. My small hands just can't get it done with this tool. I figure its a crap tool and I don't have the power. What tool do I need? Thanks!

And is leather sheen like resolene but less durable?

Is there a difference between resolene and clear lac?

Bracelets and key rings. It's not exact as I don't have some of the tools he has. and I flip the sand and edging since i sand by hand. I have a dremel with the cocobolo burnisher i am using. and the polishing i do by hand. and I have used beeswax over paraffin. I am not looking for a super gloss edge like bob's but I would like it to stay smooth in wear and tear. I figure i am not burnishing enough or I need to lacquer it?

I have burnished the edges following the Bob Parks method, minus any dyeing or Neat lac. But as you can see from the photo the wear of the edges is just dreadful. It gets really dirty and frays. Is the Neat lac going to solve this? or is it Clear lac or Wyoshene now? What is this stuff? I always got the impression it was like a plastic coating so I didn't want to use. It seems alot of people are burnishing and not using this stuff or they don't speak of it, or am I not burnishing enough to hold the edge. any help is much appreciated.

The manufacturer sells it with a hefty handle attachment. I actually keep hitting it too hard and then I get the outline of the stamp rectangle in the leather too. It's just hard to hit that sweet spot in the English bridle. The natural veg tan takes and keeps the imprint well. That's why I was thinking the arbor press would be more consistent, but if the problem is the English bridle needs a branding iron, then I would go that way. Don't have the money to do both. Glendon, Thanks for the video. I have watched many of Ian's videos. He has great info. I need to send him a donation.