211G155 Do I Have The Wrong Machine

[miaoreo]

I think I have narrowed down my thread breaking issue.. by sewing slowly with the bobbin cover off I can see the hook grab the thread, It is DRAGGING the thread across the top of the bobbin! 4 or 5 stitches of this abuse and the thread frays and breaks... not right at all... What Have I DONE?

I read a previous long post on 211G155, dont know if it is the one you were referring too Eric. But in it Wiz posted this information about timing...

"You've probably knocked the shuttle out of time.Does your machine have a push button on the bed, near the inside bobbin cover? If so, unthread the needle, then press and hold down on the button and turn the handwheel toward you until you hear and feel a distinct click. That would be the shuttle returning to the timed position, or close to it."

There is a Button on the bed, but my manual says it is to change the stich length........ Help!

[J Hayes]

The thread should go around. Watch the piont of the hook as it catches the loop, make sure its not splitting the thread, mine was out of time a bit and the hook to far away from the scarf causes the point of the hook to split the top thread. Also with yhe machine off, run your finger over the hook and thread path to make sure there are no burs abraiding the thread

Edited May 5, 2013 by J Hayes

[miaoreo]

The thread should go around. Watch the piont of the hook as it catches the loop, make sure its not splitting the thread, mine was out of time a bit and the hook to far away from the scarf causes the point of the hook to split the top thread. Also with yhe machine off, run your finger over the hook and thread path to make sure there are no burs abraiding the thread

Go around yes, but it is literally 'dragging' across the top and catching on the Latch opener contact point. I will check for burrs tho, thanks.

[J Hayes]

If that link works its a video of my 153W101. The thread is tight across the top of the bobbin. If yours is hanging up that's probably the culprit.

[miaoreo]

Perfect video! Yes.. but on mine the thread is tight, very tight and rubs hard on the latch opener.

[J Hayes]

Yeah its tight on mine too for the half then it relaxes once it gets halfway. Is your opener rough ? Maybe that's nicking the thread.

Maybe Eric will chime in again, he's a professional.

[miaoreo]

Yeah its tight on mine too for the half then it relaxes once it gets halfway. Is your opener rough ? Maybe that's nicking the thread.

Maybe Eric will chime in again, he's a professional.

Mine doesn't seem to "relax"... I am not where I can examine the machine right now. But will do so later this evening... thanks!

[gottaknow]

The latch opener adjustment is critical, as is the smoothness of the thread path. That adjustment is the last that I make after making sure the rest of the machine is timed correctly, including the setting of the hook. Here's an outline of the order I set one of these machines and checks I go through. It's also the outline in a series of videos I'm working on.

1) Time top and bottom shafts.

2) Set needle bar height.

3) Set hook timing (rotational)

4) Set hook distance to needle (left-right adjustment)

5) Adjust needle guard on hook (using mid-range needle) If I plan to use needles ranging from 110/18 thru 140/22, I use a size 125/20

6) Set feed dawg height

7) Set latch opener

8) Set stitch length

9) Adjust tension

10) Adjust feed pressure

In the process of making these adjustments, I verify the thread path integrity. There are chronic areas that develope issues. I'll be covering all of these. If it's a machine I haven't worked on before, I'll remove the hook before I set it, and inspect it, not for the novice. You can check a good portion of it while still in the machine.

You can see that adjusting the latch opener is down on the list a ways. You can set it first, but if you can't verify everything before it, your machine won't settle down. Here's a paragraph on the latch opener adjust along with picture. They are from the other thread I spoke of. Keep in mind, you may still have other issues:

After you get the hook and needle timed, you need to check your latch opener adjustment. It's the flat curve piece in the picture that contacts the bobbin basket. As your hook carries the needle thread around the hook, this latch opener pulls the little tab that fits into the throat plate open to allow the thread to slip through. You want it just enough to allow the thread to pass. If you open the gap too far, you'll bring the tab over and contact the opposite side or your throat plate. I check this setting with fabric as the machine is forming stitches.

Regards, Eric

[g3engr]

Here is a link to the service manual for your machine. I have a 211U566 which in similar to yours. http://parts.singerco.com/IPsvcManuals/221G155_211G156.pdf. Look this over carefully. I see no reason your machine won't sew the material in your picture. I sew 3/8 " hard leather from time to time with this machine using standard 135-16 needles.

Your machine came set to have 1/2" presser lift with the knee lifter. If not adjust it to spec. Ensure your needle is not bent. You should have little to no play when you wiggle the bobbin case in the hook assemble. Check by putting your finger on the bobbin latch and wiggle. If there is a lot of play it can cause some of the problems, but becomes more pronounced when shifting to reverse which your machine does not have. You should also pull on the thread with the presser feet down, but not threaded through the needle. Using low thread tension you should be able to pull the thread by hand. If the thread acts like it wants to break using say 92 thread. Stop you have a tension problem and you may need to replace your tension assembly. They are less than $30.00. Remove your bobbin case (remove three tiny screws) and inspect where the thread exits the bobbin case and ensure no burrs and that no thread is wrapped around the hook shaft, Also inspect the bobbin tension spring these seldom need adjusting unless you are running very large thread. You mention you are using a needle 3/16" longer than standard. Your machine has two engraved lines on the needle bar. When your machine has the needle in the lowest position you should see these two scribed line. They are used to set the needle bar height when using the standard 135x16,17 needle system. They will not work for the needle you are using and you will need to scribe new ones should you choose to continue to use your current needle which I see no need for in the projects in you photos. The rise from lowest position to where the timing is set is 3/32" for the 135X16 needle system. About 1/16" for the 134X35 system and I'm not sure what it is for the system you are using. One other thing to check which also can cause thread damage as you show, is the hook height. This determines the clearance between the bobbin case stop and the throat plate. The spec is .032" (0.8mm), if it is too much less the thread will bind when trying to pass between the bobbin case stop and throat plate and shread thread. You will also have your situation if the hook guard is not set to keep the needle from bending and the hook point from catching the thread. One other thing to watch out for. Your machine can handle a 135x17 needle up to number 26. Very few presser feet ,however, will allow a needle that size to pass through some won't even allow a number 23 needle to pass through let alone the thread and needle. Make certain the hole in you presser foot is large enough for the needle and thread you are using. But before doing anything change or needle.

Regards, Grant

[miaoreo]

Wow Grant... thank you... a lot to digest... I will work on your suggestions and let you know what happens..

thanks again

Mia