Dying/painting White + Blocking Out

[Milton Penflick]

Hey guys, as a fairly recent beginner of leather works (but man it does turn into an obsession pretty quickly huh?)

I was hoping i could ask some advice abut dying.

Here's the problem: i was making a guitar strap and wanted to keep the pattern in the original leather colour and dye the rest black, but as predicted the dye bled into the pattern area.

I've read quite a lot about block-out but no real explanation as to how it is done, can smeone help me out here? Are there certain dyes that works with certain block out methods etc?

Also after the failed attempt i ended up painting the pattern section with a very watered down acrylic paint (thinking behind it that if it is a bit wetter it will absorb into the leather better and not just sit on top).

Is there anything i should do to treat this paint to prevent it from flaking or cracking or should i not worry too much?

Below is a picture of how it looks so far, would love your input on this!

Many thanks,

/milton

[ReneeCanady]

Well, first I would like to say that I like the white on the black lol. As for my two cents on block out, I don't like the product at all. I have used super sheen, resolene, and block out. For me, the resolene is the best. I use two coats sometimes 3 to just be sure. I let each coat dry completely before apply the next.

[Milton Penflick]

Cant tell,if you're being sarcastic with the black,white thing, but the customer is loving it anyways :-)

So with the resolene or block out etc can you use it with any dyes? Or is there different techniques for different dyes?

[Cyberthrasher]

So with the resolene or block out etc can you use it with any dyes? Or is there different techniques for different dyes?

There aren't any "resist" products that work with dye. It's just too strong. Most of those techniques you see in the videos are done with highlighter/stains or antique. If you'd like to resist dye, the best thing I've found is liquid latex, which is painted on and then removed once you're done. Think of it like liquid masking tape. I think a common mistake that many new people make is thinking that pretty much everything is either dye or acrylic, which is why getting the hang of the coloring process can be the most difficult step sometimes. Hell, I'm still modifying my processes and learning new things all the time.

It doesn't matter how much you water down acrylic, it WON'T soak into the leather. Only the water will. But, thinning it is the right thing to do if you have to use it (anything that's "white" based will pretty much be acrylic only). If it's properly thinned, it shouldn't flake and crack too bad. Acrylics let you down when they're applied to heavy. The Resolene that Renee was mentioning and that I dam near swear by is an acrylic top coat that is thinned for proper application. I use it on pretty much every guitar strap that leaves my bench.

[ReneeCanady]

LOL No sarcasim in that comment sorry. I just ment that I like the colors together

I made an armor set last year (before I had a clue of what I was really doing) with acrylic paint on the edged. It's still standing strong, but the trick I am sure was the multiple thin coats as cyber said.

The latex, I have seen many products (lots from cyber) and it does seem to be the best result. I haven't tried it yet, but certainly plan to.

[Harag]

Well, first I would like to say that I like the white on the black lol. As for my two cents on block out, I don't like the product at all. I have used super sheen, resolene, and block out. For me, the resolene is the best. I use two coats sometimes 3 to just be sure. I let each coat dry completely before apply the next.

I agree, I like the Black and white look, glad your customer likes it.

Renee - do you cut your resolene 50/50 with water? Also how long does it take for each coat to dry? I'm hoping to use resolene this weekend to block out Acrylic paint & antique stain and not sure how to do it yet.

[Cyberthrasher]

Renee - do you cut your resolene 50/50 with water? Also how long does it take for each coat to dry? I'm hoping to use resolene this weekend to block out Acrylic paint & antique stain and not sure how to do it yet.

ALWAYS cut Resolene 50/50 with water. It will never apply correctly otherwise. It will either look like crap, or go on too thick and end up cracking and chipping. I usually give it at least an hour between coats, sometimes 2, others I just leave it overnight. If you don't wait long enough you'll end up reactivating the previous coat and making a mess of things. I had to learn that one the hard way and almost scrapped an order, but luckily I was able to fix it.

Thin it 50/50, lightly moisten a sponge with water and squeeze out any and all drops. Then I put just a little on the sponge by covering my container and splashing a little onto it. Apply super light pressure when putting it on the leather. If you push too hard, you'll squeeze out too much and get a bunch of bubbles. If you do get some bubbles, work them out. As always - get the hang of it on scrap first.

Re-reading your question - Resolene WILL NOT block out acrylic paint or dye. It will ONLY resist Antique and Stain. Seriously, if you want to resist anything else, go to Hobby Lobby or a train store and pick up some Woodland Scenics Liquid Latex.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/woo/wooc1204.htm?source=froogle&gclid=CI_l4-nF9bYCFQ_ZQgod1TMAnA

Perhaps this article on leatherlearn.com will help to clear up some of the resisting confusion and show examples of what happens with dye.

http://www.johan-potgieter.com/ll/?p=26

[Harag]

Cyber, thanks for the information. Will look into the latex at some point. When I said block out acrylic. I was planning on painting my tooling first, then apply resolene on top of the paint then do do the antique. You mention apply it using a sponge, but I take it a brush will be ok to apply over the paint. I've also read about cutting the resolene so plan on doing that when I get some. Looking forward to playing around with it this weekend.

[ReneeCanady]

Cyber pretty much summed that one up lol.

I use resolene on my acrylics BUT I also use the medium brown antique gel as a dye. Weird and expensive I know, but I absolutely LOVE the shade of brown I get from it soo.....I did attempt it once on my own personal fairie mug with black water based dye to see if that would work by chance and needless to say I call her my dirty dirty little fairie mug ROFL *insider* on that sorry. Anyway, you can look at my Facebook leather page and see the results of using the antique as a dye over the resolene. MOST of the mugs on there and the butterfly purse were done as I explained above. You can also see the fairie mug on there to see the difference with the water dye vs the rest being done with the antique.

[Cyberthrasher]

I know a few people use brushes. it's not my preferred method, but I've seen it work

[Milton Penflick]

Thanks for all your input, i've continued with the design and done thin layers of acrylic and then finished it all of with some super sheen.

So if understand it all right then you can block out stains and antiques quite easily, but if i wanna block otu a dye then liquid latex is the best way..

Here's some pictures of the result.

...not bad for my second ever guitar strap me thinks!

[David8386]

Came out very nice.

David

[treybecca]

Cyber thrasher how many coats of latex do you recommend? I recently used the latex process on your recommendation and unfortunately found the latex diluted the penetration of the color but still let it pass through. I used two very thin coats...thinking next time ill go more....

[Cyberthrasher]

Cyber thrasher how many coats of latex do you recommend? I recently used the latex process on your recommendation and unfortunately found the latex diluted the penetration of the color but still let it pass through. I used two very thin coats...thinking next time ill go more....

I use a couple heavy coats. Basically cover it heavy, then when you to the end of the part your masking, go slop some more on. Doesn't need to be pretty, just glob it on. I ran into the same thing my first time experimenting, so I learned real quick how much wasn't enough

[edishere54]

So what is the recommended drying time between coats of Liquid Latex. I would love to try this out. Cyber, you said you use 2 coats, and later you glob on some more. How long does this stuff take to cure before you can attempt the dye....??

[Cyberthrasher]

Hey, Ed - Good to see you here!!

I put it on heavy, say a 2 inch design, then go back over it again right away. It really doesn't take long to setup at all. I'd say 1/2 hour to an hour should be plenty. Just be careful when you peel it up. Any dye on top of it will likely still be liquid, so it will be easy to transfer onto your fingers and then onto the leather that you worked so hard to keep clean.

[cjdevito]

You mention apply it using a sponge, but I take it a brush will be ok to apply over the paint.

Brush is fine, but it's more finicky. You not only have to get the resist exactly where you want it and everywhere you want it, but you have to try to get it on evenly. If you brush it on heavier in some places and lighter in others more of the stain/antique will penetrate in the areas where you didn't brush it on as heavy. Which can look good, if you do it deliberately, planning out sections of the work where you want more penetration than others. But if you do it accidentally the final result will look streaky and uneven.

It's one reason why it's often recommended that you resist with multiple light coats.