Boriqua Report post Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) I have used the Fiebings Leather sheen, Super sheen and Saddle lac. I am concerned about using any of these products on this gig because of the heavy use of the flap bending back and forth regularly. I dont want cracking. Can I get away with buffing out the dye and applying Neutral shoe polish or will the polish make it rub? I have buffed it to the point where it is not rubbing now without any sealer. The guy does not want a shinny lacquer like finish. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Alex Edited May 10, 2013 by Boriqua Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted May 10, 2013 An old fashioned "recipe" for an old fashioned finish: it is a really good finish too. 4 oz (by weight) natural beeswax + 4 oz (by weight) of neatsfoot oil. Melt the beeswax in the oil, . . . I use a glass jar in a crock pot, . . . usually takes about a half hour. Pour into muffin pan with muffin liners. Allow it to harden It makes a product that is a little stiffer than Kiwi shoe polish, . . . and can go from a very dull to very shiny appearance, . . . depending on how many coats you apply. Rub it onto the surface, . . . lightly go over it with a heat gun, . . . melts it into the fibers. Polish with a soft cloth when is is dried and cool. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted May 11, 2013 An alternative to Dwight's method above is done using equal portions of beeswax and neatsfoot oil blended together by heating, then applied while still warm and fluid by using a piece of shearling, rubbing into the grain side of the leather, followed by buffing with a soft cloth (old towels work well). This is reportedly one of the methods used by saddle and harness makers for many years. I have used it when making period-correct holsters and gun belts for 19th Century revolvers. It is a bit time consuming when compared to the more modern finishes, but the results are attractive and functional. When working on matching sets, usually made with leather of several weights and from different hides, this method requires working everything to match the darkest shades resulting from the initial application, otherwise there can be considerable differences in finish colors. Also, the finish coloration can be expected to darken with age and exposure to sunlight. Of course, when making black products these are not factors requiring attention. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boriqua Report post Posted May 11, 2013 If I am using this over a rigidly wet molded piece is there any danger of this softening the leather to a point where the piece would no longer be rigid? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boriqua Report post Posted May 19, 2013 An old fashioned "recipe" for an old fashioned finish: it is a really good finish too. 4 oz (by weight) natural beeswax + 4 oz (by weight) of neatsfoot oil. Melt the beeswax in the oil, . . . I use a glass jar in a crock pot, . . . usually takes about a half hour. Pour into muffin pan with muffin liners. Allow it to harden It makes a product that is a little stiffer than Kiwi shoe polish, . . . and can go from a very dull to very shiny appearance, . . . depending on how many coats you apply. Rub it onto the surface, . . . lightly go over it with a heat gun, . . . melts it into the fibers. Polish with a soft cloth when is is dried and cool. May God bless, Dwight Thank you Dwight and all the other guys who chimed in but I mixed the beeswax and neatsfoot oil 50/50 and heated it up. I waited for it to become liquid and let it cool. I buffed my black leather piece to death. Not a single bit of dyd would show up on a white tee shirt. I appliedd the mixture dry like show polish and rubbed it in. I put it in my window for a bit .. Its arizona so that is enough applied heat as you can get! Took it out and started buffing .... Rubbing marks on the rag. So I rubbed and rubbed and rubbed some more. I put it on my kitchen table so whenever I would pass it I would give it some more buffing but after three days it still rubs slightly and I know in this heat anyone wearingg it would have a black shirt. Did I do something wrong? I then melted it in the microwave and dyed another piece of leather. Same thing buffed the leather until it was clean and then applied the melted wax/neatsoot oil onto the leather with a small brush. Man it sucked it up good and gave a nice dull finish but once again I couldnt get it to stop rubbing. It does seem like it would be great for outdoor gear because it was waterproof. But still on a concealed carry holster ...So tell me guys. Am I missing a step? Thank you everyone! Alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
