Looking At A First Machine-- A Reliable Gc0608 Industrial Walking Foot Machine -- What To Look For?

[carsonauto]

For the last 3 weeks, I've had the pleasure of working with a local leatherworker, doing odd jobs, and being exposed to sewing machines. I've been fortunate enough to have a $4000 Adler for my leather sewing--and I"m absolutely sold on the idea of buying a machine for myself.

Industrial machines almost never come up for sale around here, and I was surprised to see this one come up. I found it almost impossible to research this specific machine. I intend to go to my local sewing repair shop on Tuesday to find out if I can truly still source parts for it.

This is the listing

My question for you guys is--Without a body of research on the machine itself, what can I do to see if the machine will work for me?

• I intend to sew leather up to 3/8" thick (and rarely, maybe, up to 1/2") How can I find out if this machine is capable of this?
  
• If I bring some scrap leather with me, will I be able to try the machine out on the scrap leather, or would there simply be too much calibration/needle/thread fiddling to be able to try it out?
  
• Is it normal to take off covers and examine the gearing and linkage, or is that pretty much assumed to be up-to-snuff?
  
• And lastly--Are there any "general" tire-kicking, or things to examine when buying a used industrial sewing machine?
  

EDIT: It appears the machine is generally the exact same as a Highlead GC0618, if that helps

Thanks a lot,

Carson

Edited May 19, 2013 by carsonauto

[Art]

Yes it is a highlead clone, it would be nice if it had a saftey clutch, but I wouldn't pass it up at that price. If you can see it and sew it off, more the better. For leather, I would replace the motor with a servo speed reduction motor.

Art

[Wizcrafts]

I own a similar machine, made in Japan under the brand name National. It has the same specs as your machine.

Here are my own findings on the capabilities of this type of sewing machine.

• In stock configuration, the machine can only sew through 3/8 inch of leather or non-compressible webbing.
  
• Trying to sew thicker material causes the inside (alternating/vibrating) foot crank to make contact with either the presser bar or the back of the head itself.
  
• Do NOT try to sew 1/2 inch of leather! You will damage the machine!
  
• I was able to get it to tension up to #207 bonded nylon thread (tensioner tricks), but, It works much smoother with no larger than #138.
  
• The machine uses the standard system 135x16 or 17 walking foot needles. They can be had in sizes up to #25. But, the force required to punch through tough veg-tan leather with that large a needle makes it impractical to use.
  
• For continuous use at 3/8 inch one should reduce the ratio or alternation to its minimum. This reduces the noise, pounding and stress.
  
• Oil the machine in every red marked oil hole once every 8 to 10 hours of use.
  
• Once a month, open the front cover and place a drop of oil into each of the tiny oil holes on the cranks inside the head.
  
• Limit the top speed to about 10 stitches per second and the machine will live a lot longer. This may require a reduction in the size of the motor pulley to 2". Upholstery shops usually run them flat out at 2000 RPM, using a 4" or larger motor pulley.
  
• Check for slop in the needle bar, inside vibrating foot bar and presser foot bar. Make sure that the take up lever doesn't have a groove worn through the eye from high speed use, or Kevlar thread.
  
• Make sure that when you lift the foot with the knee lever, that the tension disks on top release their grip on the top thread.
  
• Make sure that the needle lines up dead center in the moving feed dog and that the dog raises about 1mm above the throat plate.
  
• Test the stitch length knob to see if it gets a full range of lengths without binding.
  
• Test the reverse lever to make sure it sews backwards on demand. The holes may not line up though.
  

Edited May 19, 2013 by Wizcrafts

[carsonauto]

Yes it is a highlead clone, it would be nice if it had a saftey clutch, but I wouldn't pass it up at that price. If you can see it and sew it off, more the better. For leather, I would replace the motor with a servo speed reduction motor.

Art

Thank's for responding. I know Wiz is a big proponent of the servo motor. Can a similar effect be achieved with a reduction in the motor pulley? I know all the machines at work have clutches, and I don't mind them (though, I haven't used one of the servo motors)

I own a similar machine, made in Japan under the brand name National. It has the same specs as your machine.

Here are my own findings on the capabilities of this type of sewing machine.

• In stock configuration, the machine can only sew through 3/8 inch of leather or non-compressible webbing.
  
• Trying to sew thicker material causes the inside (alternating/vibrating) foot crank to make contact with either the presser bar or the back of the head itself.
  
• Do NOT try to sew 1/2 inch of leather! You will damage the machine!
  
• I was able to get it to tension up to #207 bonded nylon thread (tensioner tricks), but, It works much smoother with no larger than #138.
  
• The machine uses the standard system 135x16 or 17 walking foot needles. They can be had in sizes up to #25. But, the force required to punch through tough veg-tan leather with that large a needle makes it impractical to use.
  
• For continuous use at 3/8 inch one should reduce the ratio or alternation to its minimum. This reduces the noise, pounding and stress.
  
• Oil the machine in every red marked oil hole once every 8 to 10 hours of use.
  
• Once a month, open the front cover and place a drop of oil into each of the tiny oil holes on the cranks inside the head.
  
• Limit the top speed to about 10 stitches per second and the machine will live a lot longer. This may require a reduction in the size of the motor pulley to 2". Upholstery shops usually run them flat out at 2000 RPM, using a 4" or larger motor pulley.
  
• Check for slop in the needle bar, inside vibrating foot bar and presser foot bar. Make sure that the take up lever doesn't have a groove worn through the eye from high speed use, or Kevlar thread.
  
• Make sure that when you lift the foot with the knee lever, that the tension disks on top release their grip on the top thread.
  
• Make sure that the needle lines up dead center in the moving feed dog and that the dog raises about 1mm above the throat plate.
  
• Test the stitch length knob to see if it gets a full range of lengths without binding.
  
• Test the reverse lever to make sure it sews backwards on demand. The holes may not line up though.
  

Thank's for the advice Wiz. I'll admit, I've read many of your topics and guidelines, and when I saw you sewing on your National, I thought to myself, "Wow, that's a sweet setup"

• I really appreciate the thorough advice. You would use #138 top and bottom?
  
• I have no issue with changing pulleys, and I'm perfectly fine to sew at very slow speeds (Much slower than your video of you sewing up a rifle sling). Is it possible to reduce the motor pulley less than 2"? (Does upping the torque that much lead to increased stress in other parts of the machine?)
  
• Lastly--If I were to reduce the thread size, and use a smaller needle, is it reasonable to assume I could do simple garment-work? (Thin coats, jeans, bags...possibly shirts, etc.---I only ask because I have no knowledge of using an industrial machine like this on thinner material)
  

Again, thank you for the extremely thorough advice.

Carson

Edited May 19, 2013 by carsonauto

[Wizcrafts]

Thank's for the advice Wiz. I'll admit, I've read many of your topics and guidelines, and when I saw you sewing on your National, I thought to myself, "Wow, that's a sweet setup"

• I really appreciate the thorough advice. You would use #138 top and bottom?
  
• I have no issue with changing pulleys, and I'm perfectly fine to sew at very slow speeds (Much slower than your video of you sewing up a rifle sling). Is it possible to reduce the motor pulley less than 2"? (Does upping the torque that much lead to increased stress in other parts of the machine?)
  
• Lastly--If I were to reduce the thread size, and use a smaller needle, is it reasonable to assume I could do simple garment-work? (Thin coats, jeans, bags...possibly shirts, etc.---I only ask because I have no knowledge of using an industrial machine like this on thinner material)
  

Again, thank you for the extremely thorough advice.

Carson

A smaller pulley increases the torque/punching power, as it reduces the speed. I personally don't go below a 2" motor pulley because there is nothing left for the straight-aways when you need to get done NOW. That is a good reason to switch to a servo, unless you are good at feathering the clutch. I would not reduce the maximum speed below 600 RPM at the machine, because you will need it for sewing webbing, upholstery and garments.

That machine, like my National, can sew with thin bonded thread, like #69, or #80 jeans thread. You just need to loosen the top and bottom tensioners. But, these walkers are not made for sewing very light or silky cloth (e.g. rayon shirts or linings). It's best to sew relatively firm material that won't get pushed down into the fairly wide slot in the feed dog. A straight stitch machine is better for thin and very soft material. I have an old Singer 31-15 for such work, threaded with #69 thread and under, or #60 jeans thread or under.

[carsonauto]

A smaller pulley increases the torque/punching power, as it reduces the speed. I personally don't go below a 2" motor pulley because there is nothing left for the straight-aways when you need to get done NOW. That is a good reason to switch to a servo, unless you are good at feathering the clutch. I would not reduce the maximum speed below 600 RPM at the machine, because you will need it for sewing webbing, upholstery and garments.

That machine, like my National, can sew with thin bonded thread, like #69, or #80 jeans thread. You just need to loosen the top and bottom tensioners. But, these walkers are not made for sewing very light or silky cloth (e.g. rayon shirts or linings). It's best to sew relatively firm material that won't get pushed down into the fairly wide slot in the feed dog. A straight stitch machine is better for thin and very soft material. I have an old Singer 31-15 for such work, threaded with #69 thread and under, or #60 jeans thread or under.

Thanks a ton Wiz. I'm going to meet with the guy as soon as I can, look for the things you mentioned, and hopefully pull the trigger on this. It's extremely reassuring to hear positive reviews from yourself.

[Wizcrafts]

Down the road, if need be, you can change to a vari-speed servo motor. I have two Sew Pro 500GR and two Family Sew servo motors. The Family Sew have a wide range of top speeds that are easily changed via a rotary switch. The Sew Pro motors have a potentiometer on the back to limit the speed. Either will sew under 1 stitch per second all day long, then speed up to their maximum with your foot position on the gas pedal. The Family Sew can go over twice as fast as the Sew Pro, making it useful on leather, vinyl and garment sewing machines.

I don't know how high your Hydro rates are in Sudbury, but your clutch motor consumes lots of watts (and generates heat) as long as it is turned on. A servo only consumes measurable power when it is at work.

Is the ground still as hard as the moon up there?

[carsonauto]

Down the road, if need be, you can change to a vari-speed servo motor. I have two Sew Pro 500GR and two Family Sew servo motors. The Family Sew have a wide range of top speeds that are easily changed via a rotary switch. The Sew Pro motors have a potentiometer on the back to limit the speed. Either will sew under 1 stitch per second all day long, then speed up to their maximum with your foot position on the gas pedal. The Family Sew can go over twice as fast as the Sew Pro, making it useful on leather, vinyl and garment sewing machines.

I don't know how high your Hydro rates are in Sudbury, but your clutch motor consumes lots of watts (and generates heat) as long as it is turned on. A servo only consumes measurable power when it is at work.

Is the ground still as hard as the moon up there?

Haha, it's hit-and-miss. You're either reliving the moon-landing, or fighting with the moose in 6 foot deep muskeg. Not much of a happy medium around here. And while hydro is pricey, I'm okay with it for what I'm doing. Though you make the servo motors very attractive, I'll admit.