Steps Of Leatherwork And More Newb Questions

[Sleepyhouse22]

If you glue it up well you can save the actual stitching for the end. Just make sure your pieces are assembled and not going anywhere when you edge/burnish them. This is one of those things where you may decide to mix up the order a little bit. Maybe you'll want to dye the main project, then dye the edges separately. Also, when gluing two pieces together, you'll want to sand up the edge regardless to clean off any glue runout.

I shall experiement then! I didn't know people even burnished two pieces together, but I guess that's how they get those beautiful pieces together so seamlessly.

What glue would you recommend?

[Cyberthrasher]

but I guess that's how they get those beautiful pieces together so seamlessly.

What glue would you recommend?

Yep!!

I like Barge contact cement. It's spendy, but works really well. There are other brands. Let me find a video on it real quick and I'll get back

Here you go. Look through all their other videos too and subscribe for when they post new ones.

[Sleepyhouse22]

Sleepy house, the list looks much better now with Cyber comments in it. When you have a complete list, please display it, I would also like to use it, it's better than mine already.

So this is what I have so far. I probably will do different things out of order like when I glue and what not depending on the project. I'm also sure this will change a gazillion more times.

1) Cut strap with strap cutter.

2) Punch buckle ends.

3) Run strap through a tray of water/dish soap. Let evaporate a little bit.

4) Bag in ziplock bag filled with a bit of air so bag isn't touching top of leather.

*Wait overnight to absorb*

5) Remove from bag; let dry until near natural color. If tooling, tape back with 3M clear packing tape.

6) Tool leather, rewetting as needed, covering unused areas with glass or plastic wrap.

7) Bevel all 4 edges (unless gluing edges together). Sand edges (only if necessary) with sandpaper #150 and then #400.

8) Crease edges with border tool. If stitching use overstitching tool.

*Wait overnight to dry*

9) Dye grain side and edges with Fiebing's Pro Oil dye.

*Wait overnight to dry*

10) Buff off dye very well with cloth or sheep wool.

11) Glue leather as needed with Barge’s contact cement/Barge’s thinner mix.

- Apply one layer on both pieces. Let absorb/dry 20 mins. Apply a second thin coat. Dry 10 mins.

- Stick pieces together. Hammer with mallet to seal well.

12) Burnish edges with Fiebing's Glycerin Bar saddle soap.

13) Seal grain side and edges with Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene/Water 50/50 mixture. Apply 2-3 light coats, 1-2 hours apart. If antiquing, apply 4-5 light coats.

*Wait several hours to dry*

14) If Antiquing, apply Fiebing's Antique Paste. Wipe off high spots immediately and work quickly. Wipe off excess before drying.

*Wait overnight to dry*

15) Seal with resolene/water 50/50 mixture again LIGHTLY as not to pull up antique (airbrush preferred).

*Wait several hours to dry*

16) Burnish flesh side with saddle soap and canvas. Apply resolene/water mixture for a seal.

17) Apply polish to the edges (bees wax with canvas cloth).

18) Apply Montana Pitch Blend leather dressing to entire strap as a final conditioner/wax coating.

*Wait overnight to dry*

19) Buff any extra wax residue on top.

20) Punch all holes, tongue slots, etc.

21) Apply all hardware.

22) Sitch as needed.

[mfrenchy]

This is a great list, do you think it would be possible to amend it with explanations for things that aren't obvious? Like why do you put it in a plastic bag overnight #4, or burnishing the flesh side, what effect does this produce #16?

Thanks for posting this

[Harag]

This is a great list, do you think it would be possible to amend it with explanations for things that aren't obvious? Like why do you put it in a plastic bag overnight #4, or burnishing the flesh side, what effect does this produce #16?

#4 - You want to read the "Casing Leather" topic pinned in the How Too forum (link below). it's explained better there, but basically it's so the casing solution (I use water and pure glycerin soap) can get into the fibers of the leather. I've tried both way, and found that my tooling was better with a cased leather than the one where I just wet. When I'm just messing and practicing (most of the time) I just wet the leather, but when I'm working on an Item I hope to possibly sell, then I case it. Even the messing around I try and case it the night before, but it all depends on time, as I'm never sure if I will be tooling the following day.

#16 - I'm not sure on this one, (Sleepyhouse, where did you see to do this???) - I've just done a couple of arm bracers / wrist bands so will try this, but my initial plan was to simply but some TanKote on the back to flatten down the fibers and make it smooth, then put my finish on it (Resolene 50/50) to seal it. I think the Tan Kote method is very similar.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19121

[Cyberthrasher]

If your flesh side is "Fleshy", you need to smooth it and slick it. Get rid of all the fuzzies and get yourself a nice smooth surface. If you're leaving the flesh side natural, this will give it a much better appearance. If you're dying it, this will allow it to take the dye better.

The entire list is a composite of information found on the forum. Most of it is pretty easy to find with a little reading.

[Sleepyhouse22]

#16 - I'm not sure on this one, (Sleepyhouse, where did you see to do this???) - I've just done a couple of arm bracers / wrist bands so will try this, but my initial plan was to simply but some TanKote on the back to flatten down the fibers and make it smooth, then put my finish on it (Resolene 50/50) to seal it. I think the Tan Kote method is very similar.

http://leatherworker...showtopic=19121

http://www.etsy.com/teams/5623/association-of-workers-in-leather-awl/discuss/8762288/

Also on plenty of forum topics here I have seen either saddle soap or gum trag recommended. I am going to try both and see which I prefer.

[Sleepyhouse22]

1) Cut strap with strap cutter.

2) Punch buckle ends.

3) Case the leather (wetting). Dip strap in a tray of water with a couple drop of dish soap. Soak until bubbles slow down. Let strap dry a couple minutes before putting into bag.

4) Bag in a large ziplock bag filled with air so bag isn't touching top of leather.

*Wait overnight to absorb* (can be left wet for as long as needed... if leaving for a super long time, refrigerate).

5) Remove from bag; let dry until near natural color. If tooling, tape back with 3M clear packing tape to prevent the leather stretching.

6) Tool leather, rewetting as needed, covering unused areas with glass or plastic wrap to keep wet.

7) Bevel all 4 edges (unless gluing edges together). Sand edges (only if necessary) with sandpaper #150 and then #400. This removes the sharp edges of the leather and preps it for smoothing down.

8) Crease edges with border tool. If stitching use overstitching tool. This is just a line created along the edges to give it good definition or decoration.

*Wait overnight to dry*

9) Dye grain side and edges with Fiebing's Pro Oil dye.

*Wait overnight to dry*

10) Buff off dye very well with cloth or sheep wool. This is to pick up any dye residue and prevent particles from floating into your seal.

11) Glue leather as needed with Barge’s contact cement/Barge’s thinner mix.

- Apply one layer on both pieces. Let absorb/dry 20 mins. Apply a second thin coat. Dry 10 mins.

- Stick pieces together. Hammer with mallet to seal well.

12) Burnish edges with Fiebing's Glycerin Bar saddle soap. This smooths down and finishes your edges.

13) Seal grain side and edges with Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene/Water 50/50 mixture. Apply 2-3 light coats, 1-2 hours apart. If antiquing, apply 4-5 light coats. This seals in the dye and protects it from bleeding.

*Wait several hours to dry*

14) If Antiquing, apply Fiebing's Antique Paste. Wipe off high spots immediately and work quickly. Wipe off excess before drying.

*Wait overnight to dry*

15) Seal with resolene/water 50/50 mixture again LIGHTLY as not to pull up antique (airbrush preferred).

*Wait several hours to dry*

16) Burnish flesh side with saddle soap and canvas. Apply resolene/water mixture for a seal. This is if you want a finished (slicked down, dyed, or shiny) look on the flesh side of your piece.

17) Apply polish to the edges (bees wax with canvas cloth).

18) Apply Montana Pitch Blend leather dressing to entire strap as a final conditioner/wax coating.

*Wait overnight to dry*

19) Buff any extra wax residue on top.

20) Punch all holes, tongue slots, etc.

21) Apply all hardware.

22) Sitch as needed.

[Cyberthrasher]

As with edges, Gum Trag is a crutch. Also, it's quite abrasive and harsh. If you're applying it to the back of something, that can cause some discomfort. When I'm treating the flesh side of my work, I give it a light sanding with fine grit then just moisten it with a sponge and use a bone folder to slick. If there's lots of flesh hanging off, I shave it off first, then sand and slick. Remember, Gum Trag only glues down the fibers. A good edge/back will have the fibers removed and then simply burnished down to a smooth finish. What's going to happen when that Gum Trag eventually wears off? Everything it was holding down will now be free to pop up and ruin the appearance of an otherwise good piece.

[Sleepyhouse22]

I ran into a few problems this week when I treked out to Tandy Leather. First was that they did not have glycerin bar saddle soap and said it would have to be bought online. He also said you have to have a Tax ID # to buy Barge's cement from them. And the dude had never heard of Montana Pitch Blend.

Then they told me that the pro oil dye will bleed through any products used on skin or indoors... that pro oil dye should only be used for outdoor working leather. I have tested the different dyes on leather this weekend... the pro oil dye leaves the leather feeling far more pliable, though this may be my imagination? I have read through the forums over and over again, people exclusively only use the pro oil dye. Any complaints have come from people using spirit dyes.

Any input on any of this?