hidepounder Posted September 16, 2009 Report Posted September 16, 2009 (edited) Hello everybody... I have put together the steps I take to case my leather for tooling due to a number of requests regarding my method. I hope this will clarify what I perceive are some misconceptions about what casing leather really is. It is in PDF format and Johanna has graciously added the article to the "Tips and Tricks" section where anyone can find it. Thank you Johanna!!! Or it can be accessed through the link below. I hope those who need this find it helpful.... Bobby Casing Leather.pdf Edited November 26, 2022 by Northmount Removed dead link and replaced with copy saved in the forum
TimKleffner Posted September 17, 2009 Report Posted September 17, 2009 Bob Nice job. Thanks for the time you spent to make an excellent presentation. Tim It's hard to fail, but worse never to have tried to succeed.Theodore Roosevelt
gtwister09 Posted September 17, 2009 Report Posted September 17, 2009 Boy that could have kept me out of trouble in some other areas. :-) Keep up the great work. Regards, Ben
King's X Posted September 17, 2009 Report Posted September 17, 2009 Thanks for your time. Nice job! Greetings from Central Texas! The Grain Side Up blog #TheGrainSideUp
Members Stevesleather Posted September 25, 2009 Members Report Posted September 25, 2009 (edited) On 9/16/2009 at 5:17 PM, hidepounder said: Hello everybody... I have put together the steps I take to case my leather for tooling due to a number of requests regarding my method. I hope this will clarify what I perceive are some misconceptions about what casing leather really is. It is in PDF format and Johanna has graciously added the article to the "Tips and Tricks" section where anyone can find it. Thank you Johanna!!! Or it can be accessed through the link below. I hope those who need this find it helpful.... Bobby Thank-you for the detailed explanation...I still have a little trouble with the "dryness" factor. When I was first taught- I was told to use my fingernail to determine the correct "wetness" or carvability. I tried to soak it- but it just left the leather hard when it dried...and it wasn't very easy to carve. Do you use the casing solution from Tandy or just water? Edited November 26, 2022 by Northmount Removed dead link "Productivity is never an accident. It is always a the result of a commitment to excellence, intelligent planning, and focused effort." - Paul J. Meyer "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough." - Einstein
TimKleffner Posted September 25, 2009 Report Posted September 25, 2009 Howdy Stevesleather 'wetting' your leather is a practice thing. Don't over wet it or will get spongy and the tools won't make a good impression. I found that I dampen my leather and try to keep it covered to prevent drying out as much as possible. When I was getting started, I over wetted the piece and it always looked 'crappy'. When the water content is 'just right', when you strike your tool, it will burnish [a dark brown] as you go. Again, it's a practice thing. Hope this helps Happy tooling Tim It's hard to fail, but worse never to have tried to succeed.Theodore Roosevelt
hidepounder Posted September 25, 2009 Author Report Posted September 25, 2009 Steve, I do not use any casing solution from Tandy....I wasn't even aware that they had one. I tried Carve Eze when it first came out and found it did nothing for me. I case with water. I often put a few drops of Joy dishsoap in my water but it is not important to do this. I am currently experimenting with some casing solutions but haven't found anything that has rocked my boat. Case with plain old water...leave it overnight at a bare minimum. Your leather is ready to carve when it has almost returned to it's natural color and feels cool when touched to your cheek. Nothing is accomplished by soaking your leather.... You want to induce enough moisture that the leather can absorb all it is capable of absorbing....anything after that is just wasted. I also have never heard of testing leather by using your fingernail in the 40+ years I've been tooling. I'm sure it worked for your mentor but that is not something I would suggest trying to follow. I hope I have answered your question....if not I'll tyr again, LOL! Hope this helps..... Bobby
Members DonnieBlaze Posted December 19, 2009 Members Report Posted December 19, 2009 Thanks for the download it will help me greatly Bikerd
Members Miett Posted August 22, 2010 Members Report Posted August 22, 2010 Thank you thank you for posting this. I'm just starting out, and it explains why some of my tooling looks kind of ...mushy. The edges aren't as crisp as I'd like. I've just been re-wetting over and over. Now I know better! I've been using the diluted casing solution from Tandy, but I'll give plain water a try since that's what you use.
hidepounder Posted August 25, 2010 Author Report Posted August 25, 2010 Miett....I appreciate hearing that the article was helpful. Try adding a few drops of Joy dish soap to your water. Sometimes it makes the leather easier to cut. I have tried several casing solutions, some home made and some manufactured and have been dissappointed with most of them. Bobby
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