Cutting Two Pieces Identical

[Cyberthrasher]

Depends. I like to give it a couple hours at least. Probably don't really need that long, but why risk it? I've been doing some upholstery work lately and I've been using a chunk of smooth wood clamped down with some spring clamps to get even pressure. Find whatever you can to get even pressure throughout the length. If it's small enough to just put something on top, that should work. I know some people don't even put any pressure on it, so it may not be necessary. Again, I'd just rather not take the chance on something that's leaving my shop to the point where I won't be able to easily fix it should it peel up in the future.

[Eternal Custom Designs]

So as of right now the gluing was a success...only time will tell...now I need to figure out how to cut the bottom piece to match perfectly... or close to...and how to get the inside of the letters that are sticking up to glue down...thanks again for all your help...I just liked your fb page...amazing work!!!!

[Cyberthrasher]

Thanks!!

For cutting, just take your time and cut as close as possible without overcutting. Remember, you can always take more off. When you get as close as you're comfortable with, pull out some sand paper or a belt sander and even up the edge. For the inside pieces, if I understand your problem right, I would come up with a small brush and put some on carefully. Plus, if you're afraid of getting the glue on the part of the letters that shows through, you may try some vaseline on the leather. I HAVE NOT TRIED THAT - but I do put vaseline on my glue jar threads to make sure it doesn't get glued shut on me, so it may work. Test out some Vaseline on a scrap piece to make sure it wont do anything funky with the leather. Just a thought I had though

[Eternal Custom Designs]

I'm gonna go adhesive shopping in a bit...I'm sure I will find something... what cement do you use? I feel the Tandy isn't super strong in the tests I've done...without stitching I want to ensure I'm giving my clients the best possible product!!! Do u finish your pieces before adding hardware?

[Cyberthrasher]

I've been using Barge, but a lot of people use the contact cement available at Home Depot - I think it's Weldwood or something. But, I would highly suggest stitching or something if you can. You should pretty much always finish before punching any holes and adding hardware. If you punch holes first, then things can bleed onto the backside. If you add hardware before putting your finish coat on, then it's harder to get a coat of finish on all parts.

[Eternal Custom Designs]

I'm learning to hand stitch now...its time consuming, but I'm loving the craft..thanks again for all your help

[TomG]

When I took the pic I just applied it so it looks uneven...I buffed it a bit and it looks uniform now...I'm about to glue the back on now but I'm a bit worried on how to do so...I don't know exactly how to tackle it...the gkue application that is....since I have the letters cut out...I don't want glue within the open letter area cause I have to dye inside to the back layer...any thoughts?

2 things - Dying - LOTS of info under that specific subheading. But in a nutshell, you can try some dark blue under the black. Use Fiebings oil dye or equiv. I use either dip dye or a wool dauber to apply my dyes.

For the gluing, you might try dry fitting the top over the bottom and using sharp pencil/mechanical pencil to trace the outlines of the letters on the inside of the liner piece. Then use a small brush to apply the glue to it so you don't get glue inside of the letters on the lining piece.

[Eternal Custom Designs]

I'm not super happy with the edges...can I go back and sand them more even and then rebirnosh them and dye again...I try to pay ATTN to detail!!!

If so what grit sand paper is preferred?

[Cyberthrasher]

Sure. You haven't put a finish on yet have you? If they're just a little off, I would hit them with 400 grit wet/dry. If you need to remove some good material, I like 220. Remember, just like cutting, you can always sand more, but you can't put those little bits back on, so take your time . Get them nice and even and smooth then come back and burnish. I'm really happy you're obsessing on the edge - too many people say "good enough" and ruin an otherwise decent item by puttying out crappy edges. Good edges are only optional if covered in lace!!

[Eternal Custom Designs]

Very good to know...I feel better now...I'm super OCD when it comes to details and what I put my name on...thanks again...I can't thank you enough!!!

Oh and do u use edge more...or what's simple to use...I have the lil PVC round burnisher...with Aussie finish work for burnishing?

[Cyberthrasher]

I'm not sure what edge more is.

When I burnish, I get it all sanded up if needed and then rub it down with bar glycerin saddle soap. For me, I find not wetting it works best. Once it's loaded up with the saddle soap as a slicking agent, I run it through my dremel burnisher. THEN I dye my edge (a burnished edge will stop it from bleeding past the edge). Once dyed, I use Resolene to finish, or whatever finish I may be using on the rest of the item. After it's finished, I polish up by hand with a piece of denim that's been loaded with beeswax.

Aside from dying and finishing, I can get 55" or so guitar strap edged and burnished in about 20 minutes tops (if it's giving me issues). If I have to sand it a bunch, it's never more than an hour. So, I'd say a dog collar could probably done in about 5 or 10 minutes once you get the process down. DO NOT USE GUM TRAG - it's a cheap way out and it's very abrasive, as well as the fact that it doesn't actually do anything outside of glue the edges down - leaving them to pop up later when it wears off.

Now, I'm sure your PVC burnisher will do just fine. It will just take a little more work if it's a hand tool.

Edited June 19, 2013 by Cyberthrasher

[Eternal Custom Designs]

Is there anything else I can use that I might have here...my jobber is closed and I was hoping to have it finished tonight!!! Or at least burnished and dyed as well as put the Aussie on it!!! So resolene is after the dye and before the finish?

[Cyberthrasher]

Resolene is finish. Its the final coating that seals the dye an leather. I've never used Aussie, but I'm pretty sure it's more of a conditioner. You'll want to let your dye settle and soak in anyway, so I wouldn't go past that step tonight. Just get it all burnished and dyed then let it sit overnight so you can buff it and pit your finish on. Dye changes with time after it settles, so you should always give it time to do its thing.

[Eternal Custom Designs]

Awesome thanks again

[Cyberthrasher]

I should explain the Aussie conditioner theory as I'm re-reading that. From my understanding, Aussie is a blend of waxes. So, being a wax based "finish" (I call these temporary finishes since they will need to be reapplied), it won't actually seal anything and should be put on last since nothing else will adhere to it properly due to the waxes.

[Eternal Custom Designs]

Cool...I just posted progress pics on fb...cause all my files seem to be to large...I'm about to go to my jobber now and grab some resolene...I used a block this morning with 320 and got the shape finish I like to see on the edges... ( no fuzzies)..how do u apply the resolene? And can I use the Aussie over the resolene...I like the smell and want to pass that as well on to my customers...I feel smell is a big plus... its a very subtle smell...it doesn't take away the natural leather smell at all...it just crisps it up a bit...kinda like the new car smell so to speak...if u can pls check out my pics on fb and tell me your thoughts!!!

[Cyberthrasher]

.how do u apply the resolene? And can I use the Aussie over the resolene...

ALWAYSALWAYSALWAYS cut Resolene 50/50 with water and apply in LIGHT coats. I can't stress that enough. I've had people come back and say "Well, I thought I'd just try it like the bottle says anyway. I guess I should have listened to you." On a single color item, I like to apply it with a lightly moistened sponge (get sponge wet and wring it out to the point of no drips). Then use LIGHT pressure when rubbing it on and be sure to get rid of any and all bubbles and streaks. You'll have some lines of foamy looking bubbles, most of those will be ok but try to keep them to a minimum.

If you're doing multi colored stuff, you have to be really careful with that technique because the first coat will lift and move around some dye pigment. You can do it, just super light pressure and be very careful. I prefer spraying it with an airbrush if I'm doing anything like this so there's no chance of moving around dye to an adjoining color.

Go ahead and put all the wax finish you want on top of the Resolene. Just remember, since Resolene is an acrylic sealer - if it's something with oils in it that will need to condition the leather, you'll need to let it sit for a while. If it's just wax, apply it and buff it and get on to the next project.

Cool...I just posted progress pics on fb...cause all my files seem to be to large..

Do you have Microsoft Office? If so, you can use the built in picture manager to compress your pictures quite easily.

[Eternal Custom Designs]

So do I supply it in a circular motion? And how many coats....with what kind of cure time in between? And unfortunately my PC died a few weeks back so I'm using my unsmart phone...lol...my name is Rob Burelsmith...if you wanna see on fb!!!god bless you

[Cyberthrasher]

For a strap, I just do about a 6 inch section at a time and rub on one straight pass real quick then lighten up the pressure to spread that application around. Kind of circular I guess. I would do at least 2 - 3 coats with a couple hours in between. As long as it's super thin coats, you could even get up to about 5 before it's getting to thick. In time you'll figure that out exactly. For now I would stick to 3 light coats tops until you have more experience with how much is too much. Remember - TEST PIECE first

[Eternal Custom Designs]

Awesome awesome awesome... yeah I do other custom stuff on the side like custom paint on cars...and test panels are a must...after the three coats do I buff it before the aussie with my wool pads? Also when I apply my Aussie I'm going to burnish the edges again...I'll let you know if that makes a difference...detail detail detail!!!

[Cyberthrasher]

Once the resolene is cured (let your last coat sit 4 - 6 hours) there shouldn't me much to buff. You'll want to POLISH your edge at the end. Not really reburnishing it. Just rubbing it down briskly with a piece of denim or canvas. I wouldn't worry about applying your Aussie to the edge, but it may do the trick.

[Eternal Custom Designs]

Very cool...will do...thank u!!

[Eternal Custom Designs]

Hey quick ?...I still have to attach some spikes and the d ring and buckle...should I punch the holes for them first...dye inside... and then resolene it? And should I do the back and edges...I'm confused...sorry...and thanks

[Eternal Custom Designs]

Also how long do I wait between coats...here in Houston inside it took about 3 mins on my test piece to flash off...should I just wait like thirty mins or so...and I've had very lil bubble issues!!!yay...that scared me!!! Lol

[Eternal Custom Designs]

Should it be glossy? I want her to shine!!!