Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 20, 2013 Yes, Resolene is glossy after it dries. BUT, cutting it cuts down on that some. It should build back up with a high gloss with the multiple coats though. ok, just caught all your other posts. COMPLETELY finish your items before punching any holes or attaching hardware. That means you MUST be finished with the resolene on top. Let it cure for AT LEAST a couple hours. Flashing off is one thing, ready for another coat is another. It's an acrylic and it will continue to harden up. If you apply another coat too soon, you'll actually just smear around and remove your previous coat - it makes a mess. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 20, 2013 So I'll wait an hour between coats...and about 4-6 before punching any more holes..and adding hardware..should I do the back and edges? And when all is done after the 6 hour wait do u buff it? Thanks for being patient with me!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 20, 2013 This is a dog collar right? Leave the back alone. You'll want to put some finish on the edges though since they'll be exposed. The back will be in direct contact with the dog. But, if you've dyed the back, you're going to need to put something on there to keep the dog from turning black. Let me know if that's the case and I'll walk you through my process for super sealing the back. I don't worry about buffing so much after Resolene - the leather is already sealed and there's nothing to really buff off. BUT, if I put on a wax conditioner after the Resolene, I buff that up to make it shine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 20, 2013 It is a collar with the back dyed!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 20, 2013 (edited) Ok. No worries, we'll just have to take some extra care. Is the flesh on the back pretty smooth, or is it stringy or suede like? You'll want to make sure that's nice and smooth first. This part may take care of some of the dye too. If it's not smooth and it has some flesh hanging, I like to sand it up with my 400, possibly 220 depending on how bad it is. Get it good and smooth with very few fibers sticking up. Like I said, this may eliminate the dye all together. If all the dyes gone, move on with the next section but don't add resolene. We want the part contacting the dogs skin to be as natural as possible "just in case" (others may vary on their opinion here) Once you're happy with how smooth that is, we're going to slick it kind of like we did our edges. Get a sponge wet and work in small sections (4 - 6 inches long) and wet the flesh side down. IMMEDIATELY get your bone folder (or something similar) and start briskly rubbing back and forth with pressure. We're trying to partly burnish and force those fibers down nice and smooth. The key here is to build up heat while pressing down. Get it GOOD and smooth at this point. You may feel a little roughness when you're done, but it will still be considered a nice smooth back. NOW you can go ahead and apply a few coats of resolene to the flesh. Edited June 20, 2013 by Cyberthrasher Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 20, 2013 I actually have the grain side facing out..on the inside and out so its super smooth...I'm thinking though in the future using a single layer...and not dying the leather...how will I dye the front and the edged without getting any thing on the flesh side? Sorry I get off track easily... back to this project...so how should I resolene it..back first...let dry an hour...then do the front and edges...and keep alternating? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 20, 2013 Ok, so you won't have to smooth anything out - that's good. I think I recall you saying that before now. So, just apply the resolene like you are on front. I would finish one side completely, then move to the other side. Just to help you not panic about the time involved - I normally get my first coat on during my lunch break. Then when I get home I'll put the next coat on. Then I go eat dinner and maybe catch up on some online work for a little while and after a couple hours go put another coat on. If I feel it needs one more, then I put it on just before bed and come back in the morning. So, all that waiting isn't such a big deal if you just work out a routine and you're not just sitting there waiting for it. When dying and trying to leave the back natural, you need to make sure your edges are well burnished. Once you burnish the edge (and it's done well) and then dye, the burnishing will have compacted the fibers enough to not allow it to bleed onto the back. I usually apply my edge dye with a sponge brush. Just rub it along the edge and it covers JUST the edge without bleeding past it. Also, make sure your work space is clean and you don't get dye anywhere else while you're dying the front - that way you don't accidentally get some dye on the back from an unexpected source. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 20, 2013 I'm starting another one while waiting... so tell me if I learned from you? I'm gonna cut the desired shape...sand my fuzzies down...burnish the edges like crazy...dye my piece...finish the piece with resolene..wait appropriate time...then punch my holes and add my hardware and decor...sound right?and again thanks... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 20, 2013 In a nutshell - Yep!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 20, 2013 Very cool...I just did my first coat of resolene one the collar...kinda scary stuff at first..lol...its almost exactly like spraying DuPonts waterbourne paint for the first time...the way it flashes looks like uh oh!!! But after it flashes its OK...lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 20, 2013 So on this other collar...how do u know when u have burnished the edges enough? What should I look for? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 20, 2013 Sleek, smooth, no roughness. There's no room for close enough - that's what gets most people into trouble. Since you're doing double layer, the ideal sign of complete would be no sign that it's two layers. BUT, that can be pretty difficult sometimes. The main thing is to make sure it's super smooth and polished. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 20, 2013 I'm doing a single layer one now...just using water to burnish...will this work so that dye won't seep onto the back..so if when it drys a bit and its still a small bit rough/fuzzy...I just keep burnishing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 20, 2013 I'm getting like a Mohawk of unburnished leather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 20, 2013 Ok, so you'll want to sand that bit down a little bit to make it a little rounder. Start with your 400 grit. You might try some really light moisture while you're sanding. Sometimes it makes a difference. That will allow your burnisher to make better contact all around the curve of the edge. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 20, 2013 OK I got this!!! Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 20, 2013 Just looked at your progress pictures finally (CJ Allan is a good brother of mine by the way ) Did you use an edger at all to knock of the corner of the edges? Looks like you haven't posted any more progress in a couple days. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 20, 2013 What do you mean by an edger? I just cut it and burnished it...but I didn't burnish at the right stage, nor near enough..I realize that now that I'm doing this piece without dye on it and in the beginning!!! Thanks for pointing that out..I've got to get my order of process down...it'll come..my wife and I at some point wanna go see cj and take a class!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 20, 2013 my wife and I at some point wanna go see cj and take a class!! me too - but that's going to take some work being on the West coast. Just search "edger" to see a bunch more. There are also some videos on how to do it on Tandy's website. The size isn't standard though. Right now I'm liking a size 2 for some reason (at least size 2 in the one I have with that number on it). You may want even a 3 or a 4. Sounds like you may have a Tandy nearby, so they should have some. http://springfieldleather.com/15093/Edge-Beveler%2CCraftool%2C%232/ Is your burnisher countoured or flat? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 20, 2013 Its contoured..I think I bought a pos though... I'll make it work though..so when u use the edger it makes burnishing easier when doing it by hand? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 20, 2013 OK it seems I've burnished to hard...its left a ring/ indention/ edge on the top grain side...if I wet it will it come out?I can't afford to waste leather...!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted June 20, 2013 (edited) What do you mean by an edger? I just cut it and burnished it... Oh boy -- "...Forest for the trees...". I don't think anyone mentioned this, did they? I think you said you were a woodworker (unless I'm confused, which is totally possible). An edger cuts the edges off the top and bottom edges of the strap. Like rounding a square wood blank before turning it on a lathe. Makes burnishing a WHOLE lot easier!.. Tom Edited June 20, 2013 by TomG Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 20, 2013 OK it seems I've burnished to hard...its left a ring/ indention/ edge on the top grain side...if I wet it will it come out?I can't afford to waste leather...!!! Using the edger makes it easier for ANY METHOD!! (to address your additional question) Get some pictures up of this indentation and we'll get it fixed. It's possible, from the sounds of it, that we might be able to turn it into a bead line For right now, let's just stop and make sure we're all on the same page before we move forward. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 20, 2013 Tom no I'm not a woodworker...thanks for the input brother...and as far as pics do u mind if I put it on fb and tag you? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted June 20, 2013 Tom no I'm not a woodworker...thanks for the input brother...and as far as pics do u mind if I put it on fb and tag you? Must be thinking of a different thread. No problem with the tag. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
