Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 20, 2013 Just go ahead and post them then let me know that they're there. I'm off work in about a half hour and I gotta run to the store, but I'll check back in once I get home. We'll make sure we get you going one way or another. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 20, 2013 I'll post them after dinner...thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Pics posted on fb!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 I'm mobile right now. Got a link to your page to make it easy? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 If I send u a msg on fb would that help? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Did that help any? I'm noticing slight streaks in the resolene..can I get rid of them... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 So, for the streaks, you'll need to either lighten up your pressure or make SURE it's cut 50/50 with water. Perhaps you need just a little more water in it. Nothing you can really do to get rid of the ones that are there, but it's possible that the next coat will even some of that out and hide it. Did you pick up a bone folder at all? If not, they have them at Joanne's, and most likely Micheal's. You can try to use that to clean up some of these spots. But, first we have to take care of that line. It's pretty good in spots, so we're going to have to make it look like you meant to do it the best we can Find the line that's the furthest from the edge on the entire strap - we'll use that as a baseline to try to make it look right. If you have some wing dividers, set them at that width. If not, find something you can use to make that line the same distance from the edge all around. Hopefully MOST of it will be pretty close to that point and you can maneuver the leather some and do some rubbing to make it look like it was meant to be. The stuff that's closer to the edge will need to be rubbed out the best you can - preferably with the bone folder or a modeling tool. It looks like they're all pretty close by viewing pictures 1 and 3. Just get that top edge damp and take your time trying to get your line as straight as possible to make it a border. Not sure what you're using to mark your design, but you can even use a stylus if you have to to get that thing going. Once we get that happy little line and it looks like it was done on purpose, I want to see you get that bone folder going and use it to slick up the edges on the spots that are sticking up. Think of it as a touch up burnisher. The far left side of picture 3 actually looks pretty good with maybe just a little roughness on the back edge that can be touched up this way. Let's use that as a baseline. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 OK let's see if we're on the same page...tomorrow I'll look for my bone folder...if I don't find it, on the other End of my stylus is I think what your referring to as the modeling end...(its kind of spoon shaped)...basically which ever line that the burnishing made that is furthest away use as the starting point for an edge all the way around..I can just wet the surface and use my stylus to make the border right? Then using the modeler push down only from the line I made as a border outwards towards the burned edges I've started... and I started using my mini mag light to burnish all the edges my cheapo undersized burnisher didn't get...lol..does that sound like I understood? When u burnish the edges do you use water...I think I used to much water making it to supple..never again * burnished edges Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Also did you say I could use an old pair of bluejeans to Polish it up after its sat for 6 hours? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Also I'm just using the weight of the foam brush when I apply the resolene..I had to point them out to my wife..but there still there and it bothers me Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 OK let's see if we're on the same page...tomorrow I'll look for my bone folder...if I don't find it, on the other End of my stylus is I think what your referring to as the modeling end...(its kind of spoon shaped)...basically which ever line that the burnishing made that is furthest away use as the starting point for an edge all the way around..I can just wet the surface and use my stylus to make the border right? Then using the modeler push down only from the line I made as a border outwards towards the burned edges I've started... and I started using my mini mag light to burnish all the edges my cheapo undersized burnisher didn't get...lol..does that sound like I understood? When u burnish the edges do you use water...I think I used to much water making it to supple..never again * burnished edges Sounds like you got it. Once the line's made, just use that modeling tool to even things out and try getting a flat surface from the line to the edge - smoothing out the mistakes that are closer to the edge than your baseline. I'm having you use water here because you're making the line and smoothing out some other stuff. That will make it toolable for you. Normally I don't really use any water when I burnish my edges - just bar saddle soap rubbed in. I have a groove worn into the bar that fits most of my leather perfect right now. That's most likely what happened here - too much moisture and it just caved. You can use the denim to polish things up pretty nicely. Just rub it fast and hot. I have one piece loaded with beeswax to wax my edge up and then a dry piece that I used to really polish them. Most of my burnishing is done with a cocobolo dremel burnisher, but there's not reason not to be able to get the same results by hand - just takes more time. Also I'm just using the weight of the foam brush when I apply the resolene..I had to point them out to my wife..but there still there and it bothers me Did you get the foam brush wet? Try a plain sponge and see if it's any different. I know those foam brushes can really suck up some material. It may be holding too much and squeezing it out on you. If you get it wet first, it won't suck up as much, and that will help to make sure your not applying too thick. I get 10 packs of sponges from the dollar store and cut them up into 6 - 8 pieces each and use those for wetting things down and applying Resolene. I'll have to test sometime to see if the sponge holds any differently than those foam brushes. Doubt I'll be able to see in time to help you on this though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 I'll do some more tests tomorrow... I'm gonna dilute the 50/50 reduction with a bit more water and give one more coat tonight and let her sit overnight.. the only streaks are in an area that the spikes are going to be attached...but if I don't at least work at it it will ear at me...thanks again for everything brother!! I'll keep u posted!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 but if I don't at least work at it it will ear at me...thanks again for everything brother!! I'll keep u posted!! Man, I've never made a SINGLE item without something on it that drives me nuts. You just have to see it, study it, find out what went wrong, and study your butt off to solve the problem and learn from it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Also I'm just using the weight of the foam brush when I apply the resolene..I had to point them out to my wife..but there still there and it bothers me I've used a number of things to apply the 50/50 res. What I like best is an old cotton shirt - not a tee shirt but a dress shirt type material. I used a small square folded in half. I put it on the edge of the bottle, tip the juice onto the cloth. Then I strike a quick stroke on my newsprint that I use to see how much I'll be laying down and then wipe the surface of the leather. Works perfect. Lays down a microthin layer. What area of the country do you live in? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 I'm def learning... thanks to y'all...and trial and tribulations... I live in Houston Texas Tom!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 I've used a number of things to apply the 50/50 res. What I like best is an old cotton shirt - not a tee shirt but a dress shirt type material. I used a small square folded in half. I put it on the edge of the bottle, tip the juice onto the cloth. Then I strike a quick stroke on my newsprint that I use to see how much I'll be laying down and then wipe the surface of the leather. I used to do that with some lint free rags. Then I got to a point at one time where it let me down and wasn't applying as evenly as it should. That's when I started just using the sponge religiously instead. Never failed me before, but that one time where I almost had to start from scratch on the entire order really made me say "not worth it". It was one of those times that was probably a fluke and I was in a hurry not doing something like normal, but I just can't help but say to myself "well, if it happened once it can happen again. Guess I better change." Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 When you use the bluejeans... do u use the inside or the out side? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Doesn't really matter. They're pretty close in abrasiveness. I have some bad phone pictures of my process that I'll try to get uploaded to show. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Cool...so resolene has been a success so far...I'm doing the back today...as far as the other collar...I figured a way to make a good border...I was thinking to maybe put some texture from the border out to the edges...if I decide to do so should I try to smooth it out first and then tool it...and would u use a shader or a background tool? Thanks as always Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 I would still try to get it uniform. May not need to get it as smooth as if you were leaving it with no border tooling. I would probably stay away from any of the hatched or checkered tools myself. They may not look right. If you have a seeder and maybe a Camouflage tool, that could work well. I've done some cool stuff with a seeder to make it look like rivets around the edge before. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Actually I made the border...and smooth out the edges... it doesn't look bad...I've got to reburnish the edges and pay ATTN to my details...but its done a 180...thanks for the quick thinking!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Now time for dye...should I do the edges first...then the front...I don't want dye on the back of this one..will a q tip work for the edges? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted June 21, 2013 Ok, so let's see if these crappy photos help out at all. I was doing some stitching practice last night and decided to edge it up for you real quick to take photos of the process. The seam is held together with seam tape, not glue, so that part could be better. Also, there is no resolene or other finish on the edge - it was a quick job. I think it took me about 5 minutes here. First off, we have 2 pieces of 5/6 oz leather stitched together as close as possible to an even edge. I've sanded up the edge to get it as even as possible with little to know sign of it being 2 layers. This was done with a small piece of 220 grit, followed up with a little 400 because I thought it needed a touch more smoothing. I pulled out my #2 edger to knock off the corners - front and back. I think I should have used a #3 here, but we'll make it work. because I had a little bit of a ridge from beveling the edge (the "mohawk" effect), I went back to the sanding real quick to even that out and make it a rounded profile like it should be. Once I'm happy with the profile and the smoothness, I get ready to burnish. Here you see my bar of glycerin saddle soap that I've rubbed into many edges - hence the groove. I don't get it wet at all, some do. I find I get better results this way. Now time for dye...should I do the edges first...then the front...I don't want dye on the back of this one..will a q tip work for the edges? I usually do the front first and then the edges, but it doesn't really matter. Q-tip should work fine. What you're about to see in the next round of pictures is a quick way to do it that doesn't offer the best coverage. Just make sure the edges are well burnished first as you'll see here Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 That makes a lot of sense..and the pics help tremendously... if I can seeing I can usually simulate it...I'll post a pic on fb if you wanna see what I got...or I can text it to you?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eternal Custom Designs Report post Posted June 21, 2013 And as far as the holes for the buckle to slide in do I do them last and just dab some dye in the carefully?? Sorry I forgot to ask earlier Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
