Cutting Two Pieces Identical

[Cyberthrasher]

That could work. I would focus my glue on the top piece and only apply it to the areas I KNOW are going to be covered on the bottom. Your main concern on a project like this will be keeping those edges together. Using the contact cement (which is what I would recommend), you'll want to make sure that the bottom piece doesn't have any dye or finish on it and apply to both pieces. Then let it tack up a bit before sticking them together. It's actually best practice to put on two coats - letting the first dry a bit and then allowing the second coat to reactivate for a lifelong bond.

[Eternal Custom Designs]

So I really don't have to apply cement to both pieces? In a situation like this? Or did I misunderstand? Can I just apply the cement to one surface and still have a great bond?

[Cyberthrasher]

You'd want to apply it to both surfaces. Just apply it all over the top, and focus the bottom application to the areas that you KNOW will be covered (each end outside your lettering and the edges). I thought that might be worded a little funny, so I'm glad you asked.

[Eternal Custom Designs]

I've got fine line tape for my air brushing so I'll use it...you have been an awesome awesome help...thanks a million plus

[Eternal Custom Designs]

Do u let it set up overnight.. while adding some weight on it?

[Cyberthrasher]

Depends. I like to give it a couple hours at least. Probably don't really need that long, but why risk it? I've been doing some upholstery work lately and I've been using a chunk of smooth wood clamped down with some spring clamps to get even pressure. Find whatever you can to get even pressure throughout the length. If it's small enough to just put something on top, that should work. I know some people don't even put any pressure on it, so it may not be necessary. Again, I'd just rather not take the chance on something that's leaving my shop to the point where I won't be able to easily fix it should it peel up in the future.

[Eternal Custom Designs]

So as of right now the gluing was a success...only time will tell...now I need to figure out how to cut the bottom piece to match perfectly... or close to...and how to get the inside of the letters that are sticking up to glue down...thanks again for all your help...I just liked your fb page...amazing work!!!!

[Cyberthrasher]

Thanks!!

For cutting, just take your time and cut as close as possible without overcutting. Remember, you can always take more off. When you get as close as you're comfortable with, pull out some sand paper or a belt sander and even up the edge. For the inside pieces, if I understand your problem right, I would come up with a small brush and put some on carefully. Plus, if you're afraid of getting the glue on the part of the letters that shows through, you may try some vaseline on the leather. I HAVE NOT TRIED THAT - but I do put vaseline on my glue jar threads to make sure it doesn't get glued shut on me, so it may work. Test out some Vaseline on a scrap piece to make sure it wont do anything funky with the leather. Just a thought I had though

[Eternal Custom Designs]

I'm gonna go adhesive shopping in a bit...I'm sure I will find something... what cement do you use? I feel the Tandy isn't super strong in the tests I've done...without stitching I want to ensure I'm giving my clients the best possible product!!! Do u finish your pieces before adding hardware?

[Cyberthrasher]

I've been using Barge, but a lot of people use the contact cement available at Home Depot - I think it's Weldwood or something. But, I would highly suggest stitching or something if you can. You should pretty much always finish before punching any holes and adding hardware. If you punch holes first, then things can bleed onto the backside. If you add hardware before putting your finish coat on, then it's harder to get a coat of finish on all parts.