Members Eternal Custom Designs Posted June 19, 2013 Author Members Report Posted June 19, 2013 I'm learning to hand stitch now...its time consuming, but I'm loving the craft..thanks again for all your help Quote
Members TomG Posted June 19, 2013 Members Report Posted June 19, 2013 When I took the pic I just applied it so it looks uneven...I buffed it a bit and it looks uniform now...I'm about to glue the back on now but I'm a bit worried on how to do so...I don't know exactly how to tackle it...the gkue application that is....since I have the letters cut out...I don't want glue within the open letter area cause I have to dye inside to the back layer...any thoughts? 2 things - Dying - LOTS of info under that specific subheading. But in a nutshell, you can try some dark blue under the black. Use Fiebings oil dye or equiv. I use either dip dye or a wool dauber to apply my dyes. For the gluing, you might try dry fitting the top over the bottom and using sharp pencil/mechanical pencil to trace the outlines of the letters on the inside of the liner piece. Then use a small brush to apply the glue to it so you don't get glue inside of the letters on the lining piece. Quote Tom Gregory Legacy Leathercraft www.legacyleathercraft.com www.etsy.com/shop/legacyleathercraft
Members Eternal Custom Designs Posted June 19, 2013 Author Members Report Posted June 19, 2013 I'm not super happy with the edges...can I go back and sand them more even and then rebirnosh them and dye again...I try to pay ATTN to detail!!! If so what grit sand paper is preferred? Quote
Members Cyberthrasher Posted June 19, 2013 Members Report Posted June 19, 2013 Sure. You haven't put a finish on yet have you? If they're just a little off, I would hit them with 400 grit wet/dry. If you need to remove some good material, I like 220. Remember, just like cutting, you can always sand more, but you can't put those little bits back on, so take your time . Get them nice and even and smooth then come back and burnish. I'm really happy you're obsessing on the edge - too many people say "good enough" and ruin an otherwise decent item by puttying out crappy edges. Good edges are only optional if covered in lace!! Quote hellhoundkustoms.wordpress.com www.facebook.com/hellhoundkustoms www.etsy.com/shop/HellhoundKustoms
Members Eternal Custom Designs Posted June 19, 2013 Author Members Report Posted June 19, 2013 Very good to know...I feel better now...I'm super OCD when it comes to details and what I put my name on...thanks again...I can't thank you enough!!! Oh and do u use edge more...or what's simple to use...I have the lil PVC round burnisher...with Aussie finish work for burnishing? Quote
Members Cyberthrasher Posted June 19, 2013 Members Report Posted June 19, 2013 (edited) I'm not sure what edge more is. When I burnish, I get it all sanded up if needed and then rub it down with bar glycerin saddle soap. For me, I find not wetting it works best. Once it's loaded up with the saddle soap as a slicking agent, I run it through my dremel burnisher. THEN I dye my edge (a burnished edge will stop it from bleeding past the edge). Once dyed, I use Resolene to finish, or whatever finish I may be using on the rest of the item. After it's finished, I polish up by hand with a piece of denim that's been loaded with beeswax. Aside from dying and finishing, I can get 55" or so guitar strap edged and burnished in about 20 minutes tops (if it's giving me issues). If I have to sand it a bunch, it's never more than an hour. So, I'd say a dog collar could probably done in about 5 or 10 minutes once you get the process down. DO NOT USE GUM TRAG - it's a cheap way out and it's very abrasive, as well as the fact that it doesn't actually do anything outside of glue the edges down - leaving them to pop up later when it wears off. Now, I'm sure your PVC burnisher will do just fine. It will just take a little more work if it's a hand tool. Edited June 19, 2013 by Cyberthrasher Quote hellhoundkustoms.wordpress.com www.facebook.com/hellhoundkustoms www.etsy.com/shop/HellhoundKustoms
Members Eternal Custom Designs Posted June 19, 2013 Author Members Report Posted June 19, 2013 Is there anything else I can use that I might have here...my jobber is closed and I was hoping to have it finished tonight!!! Or at least burnished and dyed as well as put the Aussie on it!!! So resolene is after the dye and before the finish? Quote
Members Cyberthrasher Posted June 20, 2013 Members Report Posted June 20, 2013 Resolene is finish. Its the final coating that seals the dye an leather. I've never used Aussie, but I'm pretty sure it's more of a conditioner. You'll want to let your dye settle and soak in anyway, so I wouldn't go past that step tonight. Just get it all burnished and dyed then let it sit overnight so you can buff it and pit your finish on. Dye changes with time after it settles, so you should always give it time to do its thing. Quote hellhoundkustoms.wordpress.com www.facebook.com/hellhoundkustoms www.etsy.com/shop/HellhoundKustoms
Members Eternal Custom Designs Posted June 20, 2013 Author Members Report Posted June 20, 2013 Awesome thanks again Quote
Members Cyberthrasher Posted June 20, 2013 Members Report Posted June 20, 2013 I should explain the Aussie conditioner theory as I'm re-reading that. From my understanding, Aussie is a blend of waxes. So, being a wax based "finish" (I call these temporary finishes since they will need to be reapplied), it won't actually seal anything and should be put on last since nothing else will adhere to it properly due to the waxes. Quote hellhoundkustoms.wordpress.com www.facebook.com/hellhoundkustoms www.etsy.com/shop/HellhoundKustoms
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