Cutting Two Pieces Identical

[Cyberthrasher]

Yes, Resolene is glossy after it dries. BUT, cutting it cuts down on that some. It should build back up with a high gloss with the multiple coats though.

ok, just caught all your other posts. COMPLETELY finish your items before punching any holes or attaching hardware. That means you MUST be finished with the resolene on top. Let it cure for AT LEAST a couple hours. Flashing off is one thing, ready for another coat is another. It's an acrylic and it will continue to harden up. If you apply another coat too soon, you'll actually just smear around and remove your previous coat - it makes a mess.

[Eternal Custom Designs]

So I'll wait an hour between coats...and about 4-6 before punching any more holes..and adding hardware..should I do the back and edges? And when all is done after the 6 hour wait do u buff it? Thanks for being patient with me!!

[Cyberthrasher]

This is a dog collar right?

Leave the back alone. You'll want to put some finish on the edges though since they'll be exposed. The back will be in direct contact with the dog. But, if you've dyed the back, you're going to need to put something on there to keep the dog from turning black. Let me know if that's the case and I'll walk you through my process for super sealing the back.

I don't worry about buffing so much after Resolene - the leather is already sealed and there's nothing to really buff off. BUT, if I put on a wax conditioner after the Resolene, I buff that up to make it shine.

[Eternal Custom Designs]

It is a collar with the back dyed!!

[Cyberthrasher]

Ok. No worries, we'll just have to take some extra care. Is the flesh on the back pretty smooth, or is it stringy or suede like?

You'll want to make sure that's nice and smooth first. This part may take care of some of the dye too. If it's not smooth and it has some flesh hanging, I like to sand it up with my 400, possibly 220 depending on how bad it is. Get it good and smooth with very few fibers sticking up. Like I said, this may eliminate the dye all together. If all the dyes gone, move on with the next section but don't add resolene. We want the part contacting the dogs skin to be as natural as possible "just in case" (others may vary on their opinion here)

Once you're happy with how smooth that is, we're going to slick it kind of like we did our edges. Get a sponge wet and work in small sections (4 - 6 inches long) and wet the flesh side down. IMMEDIATELY get your bone folder (or something similar) and start briskly rubbing back and forth with pressure. We're trying to partly burnish and force those fibers down nice and smooth. The key here is to build up heat while pressing down. Get it GOOD and smooth at this point. You may feel a little roughness when you're done, but it will still be considered a nice smooth back. NOW you can go ahead and apply a few coats of resolene to the flesh.

Edited June 20, 2013 by Cyberthrasher

[Eternal Custom Designs]

I actually have the grain side facing out..on the inside and out so its super smooth...I'm thinking though in the future using a single layer...and not dying the leather...how will I dye the front and the edged without getting any thing on the flesh side? Sorry I get off track easily... back to this project...so how should I resolene it..back first...let dry an hour...then do the front and edges...and keep alternating?

[Cyberthrasher]

Ok, so you won't have to smooth anything out - that's good. I think I recall you saying that before now. So, just apply the resolene like you are on front. I would finish one side completely, then move to the other side. Just to help you not panic about the time involved - I normally get my first coat on during my lunch break. Then when I get home I'll put the next coat on. Then I go eat dinner and maybe catch up on some online work for a little while and after a couple hours go put another coat on. If I feel it needs one more, then I put it on just before bed and come back in the morning. So, all that waiting isn't such a big deal if you just work out a routine and you're not just sitting there waiting for it.

When dying and trying to leave the back natural, you need to make sure your edges are well burnished. Once you burnish the edge (and it's done well) and then dye, the burnishing will have compacted the fibers enough to not allow it to bleed onto the back. I usually apply my edge dye with a sponge brush. Just rub it along the edge and it covers JUST the edge without bleeding past it. Also, make sure your work space is clean and you don't get dye anywhere else while you're dying the front - that way you don't accidentally get some dye on the back from an unexpected source.

[Eternal Custom Designs]

I'm starting another one while waiting... so tell me if I learned from you? I'm gonna cut the desired shape...sand my fuzzies down...burnish the edges like crazy...dye my piece...finish the piece with resolene..wait appropriate time...then punch my holes and add my hardware and decor...sound right?and again thanks...

[Cyberthrasher]

In a nutshell - Yep!!

[Eternal Custom Designs]

Very cool...I just did my first coat of resolene one the collar...kinda scary stuff at first..lol...its almost exactly like spraying DuPonts waterbourne paint for the first time...the way it flashes looks like uh oh!!! But after it flashes its OK...lol