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Just finished up a couple more gun belts. I'm trying to build up some stock in order to have some items for display at some upcoming gun shows. I think these will be for display only as I don't see myself trying to make a hundred or so belts for immediate sale. But would like to display these so potential customers can see and feel the product.

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Looks good! Care to share any details? I'm just getting into belts and trying to learn what makes a good one.

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Looks good! Care to share any details? I'm just getting into belts and trying to learn what makes a good one.

Thanks Harley! I'd be happy to share. I start with 6/7 Hermann Oak single belt belt from Springfield Leather Co. I cut my 1.5 in strip and cut to length, mark my stitch line, punch my billet and chape holes, and dye to selected color. I then cut my 2.0 in liner and glue them together and sew. After the sewing is done I trim my liner to 1.5 in, sand even and bevel the edges. I then dye the edges and burnish using Bob Park's method (can be found on this forum). Once all the burnishing is done I apply Montana Pitch Blend oil, dry over night and the apply MPB leather dressing.

There's more details with the process, but that's it in a nutshell. Please feel free to ask about anything not covered.

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The end that wraps over the buckle is it full double weight or do you skive it?

That's the part I can't visualize. Also do they make billet punches or do you freehand it?

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The end that wraps over the buckle is it full double weight or do you skive it?

That's the part I can't visualize. Also do they make billet punches or do you freehand it?

It's skived just behind the tongue slot. I took an existing pattern I got from Chris "Slickbald" Andre's western belt pattern packand use it for my templates. However, I'm sure you could use an existing belt and use it for a template as well. Hope this helps.

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Mr. Ingle,

How do you trim the 2.0" wide piece so that it's straight? I'm assuming that you roughly center the 1.5" piece on the 2.0" piece?

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Mr. Ingle,

How do you trim the 2.0" wide piece so that it's straight? I'm assuming that you roughly center the 1.5" piece on the 2.0" piece?

That's correct. I center the 1-1/2 inch layer as best as possible and I should roughly have a 1/4 inch on each side to trim off. Once my 1-1/2 inch layer is glued to (on top) the 2 inch layer, I merely use the edge of the 1-1/2 layer as a guide and trim off the excess with my round knife.

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I made a belt for a co worker recently basically just a blank from tandy and a buckle. After seeing yours I should give him his money back :-) but I only charged him for materials lol. I am curious though what weight and material do you use to line your belts?

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I made a belt for a co worker recently basically just a blank from tandy and a buckle. After seeing yours I should give him his money back :-) but I only charged him for materials lol. I am curious though what weight and material do you use to line your belts?

I use 6/7 oz Hermann Oak single belt bend for both layers.

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I think I'm most impressed by the fit and finish. If your hand dying them, your doing a great job at consistent coverage. Those should sell some belts for you.

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I think I'm most impressed by the fit and finish. If your hand dying them, your doing a great job at consistent coverage. Those should sell some belts for you.

Thank you. I'm actually spraying them with a cheap Harbor Freight airbrush. I'm probably gonna look into drum-dyed leather if demand picks up.

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Very nice work!

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Very nice work!

Thanks!

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They look great.

David

Thanks David! Much appreciated.

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Please tell me you're not hand sewing these?

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Please tell me you're not hand sewing these?

Nope, sewn with a Cobra Class 4 from Leather Machine Co.

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Nope, sewn with a Cobra Class 4 from Leather Machine Co.

That stitching looks nice! I've got to ask what needle point type, presser foot combination, thread weight, process after stitching are you using? I just bought my first machine (a used Adler 205 clone) a month or so ago and am not getting nearly that nice looking of a stitch on the back, and my stitches are all straight and not nicely angled like yours, as in mine are - - - - - not /////. I've always handsewn everything and much prefer the angled stitches but didn't think that was possible with a machine.

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That stitching looks nice! I've got to ask what needle point type, presser foot combination, thread weight, process after stitching are you using? I just bought my first machine (a used Adler 205 clone) a month or so ago and am not getting nearly that nice looking of a stitch on the back, and my stitches are all straight and not nicely angled like yours, as in mine are - - - - - not /////. I've always handsewn everything and much prefer the angled stitches but didn't think that was possible with a machine.

Thanks! Not sure what point the needle is. The info on the photo below may help. The presser foot is set up with a left foot. I used 207 bonded nylon top and bottom. After I stitch a mist water on the belt, let sit for a minute, and smooth out with a tool from Bianchi (frontier gun leather).

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What's your finish coat? acrylic?

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Very nice work!

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What's your finish coat? acrylic?

No sir. I used Montana Pitch Blend Leather Dressing on these. I don't use acrylic on anything anymore.

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No sir. I used Montana Pitch Blend Leather Dressing on these. I don't use acrylic on anything anymore.

What about dye bleed? No issues?

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What about dye bleed? No issues?

None that I've noticed. I've been wearing a black one for months now and haven't seen any.

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Are you using pro oil dye? Even on edges I've noticed alot of people have alot problems with bleeding edges even after a acrylic sealer.

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