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walter roth

Tools Of A Swiss Sattler

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At Tor: I just got back from Laederiet, and they have some new edge dyes from Italy. They're supposedly what a lot of industry companies use. If that's a good thing, I don't know. But I'll let you know, if they're any good once I get the chance to try them out.

At Walter: You're probably the second guy ever to recommend using hide/pearl/animal glue to finish edges. The first one was an old saddler that I bought some tools off. However he didn't seem like a very good craftsman, so I didn't take his word for much. But I have some glue lying around, but how do you apply it and how do you rub it in?

Thanks Simon, I am looking for one that can be used with a heated soldering iron with a crease tip on (the Filet electric). I will check it out.

Thanks

Tor

Post 1 .........Edges Polishing.

Hi Guys..............

So that edges polishing... I will try it if I can't describe with my English((-:

I actually thought that was still widely known.

So, if one makes the belt with 2 layers and has sewn so it grinds today the edges often using a grinding machine. For example, I often use this one...

http://www.westernto...elt-sander.html

He can handle well in the vise clamp.

Earlier, you made this work but with the "shards" (glass shards).

You took a piece of window glass, and cut it to size with the glass cutter into small pieces so 6 x 3 cm.

Cut the glass there but only an edge that cuts really well, that is the "lower". Because the "top" of it carved a using a glass cutter is of course no longer intact and so also not sharp.

With the sharp side of the glass is now pulled off the double strap leather edge and equalised, - beautiful flat made.

This one stretches the straps in the stitching horse and pulling the glass at a slight angle com light pressure on the edge of the leather.

You will see that the glass edge is very sharp and well cuts away the leather, without that you damaged the belt or embrasures makes immediately recognize how the angle must be, you will become.

Editing makes a smoother edge with the glass as it is possible with the machine.

Greeting

Walter

Thanks I know this technique.

I use it too. (not glass anymore)

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Tor..............

I thought that to myself.

But glass is better.

By the way, is used to apply the bone glue on the Lederkannte traditionally a piece of thick felt, so 2 x 6 cm and 1.5 cm thick.

There are such residues at the traditional Saddlers usually always enough.

Greeting

Walter

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Hi guys...

I got.

I read here about the manufacture of beautiful edges.

I will even say that I always the color sanding after which edges wear, because later takes the color no longer good edge, if you wax to the shine is, or even if you the edge with a wheel made of wood has edited to make them smooth.

So only the color, then use the burnisher. Usually only apply after the edges luster.

By the way...

Edited when you stamp the leather with the leather and the leather to wets, what are you doing when you get these black stains on the leather...???

Here in the Switzerland used the same resources that it takes to make the black stains on parquet away then.

We take about 96% - known oxalic acid, (Common wood sorrel Acid ...??? ) under the name "Sauerkleesalz" = German Lhangwich, (oxalic acid) or sugar acid (saccharic acid) ...."Zuckersäure" in German Lhangwich.

Black handle stains away within seconds, but only as long as the leather is still wet.

1 Tea Spoon sugar acid dissolve in 1 dl water and it is finished. :cowboy:

Greeting

Walter

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Tor..............

I thought that to myself.

But glass is better.

By the way, is used to apply the bone glue on the Lederkannte traditionally a piece of thick felt, so 2 x 6 cm and 1.5 cm thick.

There are such residues at the traditional Saddlers usually always enough.

Greeting

Walter

Thanks Walter, I never tried that bone glue. Seems to be a bit work. Thanks for explaining it.

Tor

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I have used diluted Elmer's glue for edges that don't move - like around saddle horns and leather covered stirrup. I have had some cracking problems on edges of photo albums. Is the bone glue edge flexible? Also note to Tor - I received the special formula Scandinavian saddle soap yesterday. :clapping::You_Rock_Emoticon:

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I have used diluted Elmer's glue for edges that don't move - like around saddle horns and leather covered stirrup. I have had some cracking problems on edges of photo albums. Is the bone glue edge flexible? Also note to Tor - I received the special formula Scandinavian saddle soap yesterday. :clapping::You_Rock_Emoticon:

Hello Bruce, thats great news. I hope you enjoy it, because you have deserved it. The reason you received it that late was; simply that I forgot to send it. Sorry about that.

However, I hope that`s forgotten now too. Thank you for your help, :You_Rock_Emoticon: too.

Tor

By the way Bruce, Elmer's glue is that made of animal bones too? I have not seen that product here where I live.

Thanks

Tor

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I have used diluted Elmer's glue for edges that don't move

White or yellow?

Yellow glue is usually the woodworker's type. Dries stiff and cracks when bent.

White glue usually dries flexible, so shouldn't crack.

But, I suppose amongst all the manufacturers, there are sure to be disparities as to how their glue dries and behaves.

As an aside, for those interested, diluted yellow glue can be used to stop water stains on your ceiling from showing through your new coat of paint.

Tom

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Hi Guys...............

Here in the Switzerland it has used probably always bone glue CEN long as edge gloss.

Even in the modern edge gloss products bone glue is always the "main part", already resolved, so he cold can be processed ...allerdings and without you first must warm him.

What they use as a solvent, that I would have to ask once.

Unfortunately, they have made smaller the proportion of bone glue in the product, thus he was ever watery and worse in the result.

Bone glue should not too thick, but thin ...aber still not as thin as water.

Check it out einml, it works fine and the edges are fragile... I never had this problem.

However I'm also repeatedly carrying on bone glue. Some leather craftsmen edges gloss apply several times to get a perfect result ...und do it sometimes too much of a good.

Bone glue is always the color of amber and is still in the form of beads to buy.

Finished products are only suitable if they were made for leather processing.

But I think, as a glue for wood used long him nobody.

And as I said, you can give to some Glycerin to make bone glue something rubbery.

I'll take a recipe, something as soon as I take but time did.

Containing Glycerin, water and glue.

Greeting

Walter

Edited by walter roth

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Yes I see, that was a smart solution with the rubber. I have often used cloth over the wood, but its not easy. Sometimes I use a felt wheel like on the "fantastic leather burnishing machine"

http://leatherworker...showtopic=28079

I use Gum tragant, fibings saddle soap, bees wax, and paraffin wax mix. Then Fibings edge dyes. Depended of how much work I put in the edges. I am now looking for some good edge paint for using with the hot electric Filet tool. Campbell Randall (Bosworth) has something I can use on Chrome tan leather edges, I am going to order some from him to try it out.

I see you mention several (to me) new products for edges. Like "Gum Arabic" never heard about this one. Hot glue, is that same as " shellac lacquer". The Danish ROK edge paint contains shellac, not that it works any good. Thats why I presumed it was used in other products as well.

Well "beautiful edges" is a hole blog on its one. Its written page up and down with different techniques of burnishing/polishing edges in this forum.

However, its mostly written by American saddler's, its not much about the European sattlers work with edges. I am sure this forum would like to see your techniques of enchanging leather edges. See what kind of product and tools you favor to use, maybe get some good tip of European product for edges. In Norway we have mostly American product in the shops.

In advance thanks

Tor

For use with a filiteuse and soft leather you want something like the edge finish from Beraud - its very effective but rather difficult and very time consuming in use.

In England we still commonly use both glass for edges and a lot of the trade mixes their own edge finishes with powder dye and pearl glue still. I personally glass for multi layers of thick leather and its very effective.

Charlie

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Hi...

I will show you that with photos, but it goes a few days until I have time to do so.

Car Charlie...

To work with the glass is almost just as fast as with the machine and it is very easy. Only strongly curved shapes are better to grind with the machine.

Charlie, what is a Filiteuse ?? .....I don't understand the word and can't find it in the Internet also.

Greeting Walter

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Hi leather craftsman...

Finally, the images of my leather edges polishing apparatus.

But as I said, I use only for small things and such you are swinging at belt tips, etc.

Belt I prefer with the polishing cloth by hand and hang with the belt usually on the hole for the buckle pin on a hack on the wall.

I have now finally once again prepared the machine that made it new material and left a piece of wood I sometimes can work with after a belt hole inflicted.

I had just no suitable boxwood more, so I took this just a piece of olive wood...((((-:

But as I said, growing to the plaster I use never, so I've eingewachst here only the wooden parts.

Who wants to build something yourself, the engine power is quite small, very cheap to have the engines. I think, so $100 would suffice for the motor.

This is a motor of the German company "Bauknecht", a famous washing machines manufacturers.

It is a normal three-phase motor with 0.18 kilowatts of power and provided with a thermal protection.

He makes 2800 rpm, and the v-belt can reduce about speed to 50%.

The shaft is left and right set of ball bearings easily with 2 pressed ball bearings.

Greeting

Walter

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Edited by walter roth

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Hello Walter,

Great machine for burnishing. Nice to have one that can be permanently mounted on a bench. I use burnishers in a Dremel and drill, as well as a Foredom type tool. I think the base that you have for the shaft is very unique and well made.

Changing the subject, I have been busy on You Tube, watching and listening to "Oesch's die Dritten". Have you heard of them? Wonderful Yodelers and a great family group. Switzerland has some superb talent. Appezeller Talent at it's best.

God Bless.

Ray

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Hi Ray...

The "Oeschs" are not so well known in the Appenzell region here in Europe already.

Yes, we Appenzell believe that we make the best folk music.

This is also so superb musicians, such as the Alders and the "Alderbuebe". http://www.alderbuebe.ch/

Click on the page Troy and then start the player. they are very good especially with the violin. I like the best title no. 12.

This music played in my brother's wedding.

The "boys" are now even staunch fathers and grandfathers.

You are versed in "Classical music" and exceptionally good in this folk music.

I personally like the "Hackbrett" love most. (English probably hammered dulcimer)

I think also the Appenzell costumes from Appenzeller Woman ( Festtagstracht ) some of the most beautiful in Europe.

But there is only the 70'000 in two cantons of Appenzell, nothing more.

Greeting

Walter

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Hi leather craftsman...

Fast times here what klenies, what I just did.

I bought this oval Dixon hole last week, they were rusted but strong.

Now I made them clean and they have become very useful.

I have enough hole iron, but it was still a shame to them.

Are still of the old style, that is to say, they were flat forged in such as pricking irons, then forged around a mandrel and forged together in the fire.

Finally has sharpened them outside and brought in the form.

But now they are very smooth and the hole parts leather fall out light.

Greeting

Walter

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lovely work on those Walter

Probably better now than they were new !

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Hi leather craftsman...

So, with much delay now what on the topic of bone glue to the shine of the leather edge.

First I must say, that we do not with something shiny Sattler which edges which are in daily use to peel or a hard layer wears on.

With bags manufacturers such as Louis Vuitton, you can see that very often, namely that they the edges with a thick varnish shine.

A Saddler but does not make it, he wants so that its edges are water repellent, but remain flexible and not everywhere, where the strap through the buckle goes through, be quickly ugly because the paint is crumbling.

So the edges are very nice with bone glue, and the better to prepare the edges, they become the more beautiful.

When individual pieces can clean edges off them, good sanding, moisten several times and again after they grind something.

But now to the promised recipe for bone glue.

)))) 50 grams of bone glue and 1.2. dl water. ((((((

Bone glue I used here, is Perlenförmig, but already to ground. I was the glue beads slightly crushed with a hammer.

No matter in what form, is there 50 gr. Glue beads it into a container of copper, aluminium, glass or porcelain and 0.12 liters water.

That lets you soak. Depending on grain size between 15 minutes and 3 hours.

He is so crushed in my photos that takes only 15 minutes.

the glue should not in a vessel made of iron be warmed, because it reacts with iron and is black.

I did it in my old oven of glue, which is made of copper. Earlier all joiner used for its hot glue these ovens.

If it is swollen, so is there oven in the glue water, preferably hot water from the faucet or from the kettle.

To set small glue pot use in the water, then the small burner ignites.

This old here with me, which is filled with lamps Peroleum. But also a burner with alcohol is good to use.

He burns with petroleum just very long and it takes very little petroleum.

The flame is very small set and place it in the oven.

After about 15 minutes, bone glue is hot and pretty thin.

Bone glue should never really Cook, but only on ))) maximum 65° (((

heated, he changed otherwise and is worse in its properties.

Now simply drag with a felt piece apply to the lederkannte and the belt through the gloss cloth.

That is done knew.

You can something increase the amount of water or somewhat less water, that can test each one of you itself.

If you cool the glue, then he is like gelatin.

It dries the time from and is then again like a chunk of wax.

He can warm up again at any time, but with a little water and can be used with new.

As long as he is but gelatin-like, only just newly warm until he is pretty fluid, and already, it can be used again.

Sometimes it can also happen that the glue begins to mouldy before it has completely dried.

Want to prevent that so one can admit 5% - 10% of the weight of the glue in Glycerin.

For 50 gr. Glue ....... so 2.5 - 5 g Glycerin.

Glycerin to preserve, and also softens the glue.

Greeting

Walter.

...by the last picture you can see how bone glue into the glue pot has cooled down, ...er does not fall out.

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Edited by walter roth

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Hi leather craftsman...

Now something about the bone glue.

The edge gloss I've bought here in the Switzerland always, which was bottled in bottles and stayed thin. He could heat up at normal temperatures without be used at any time.

In the gloss, bone glue was solved with ...... Isoprophylalkohol.

May be an addition of 2-5 % was... ( 40% vinegar acid ) mixed with.

The acetic acid prevents bone glue is hard, but can be which is not necessary in the Isoprophylalkohol.

I'll test it yet.

It would be anyway, quite interesting if you could mix so tried and true edges shine itself, so that he at any time, cold out of the bottle, can be used.

Greeting

Walter

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Hi Walter, Thank you for your recipe for pearl glue, especially the tip about using glycerine to slow down mould growth. I only make up small amounts at a time using an old saucepan and a gas camping stove as I could not find a decent glue pot. I also tend to add black stain to the glue to save time when finishing edges as this is the most often used finish but usually I have a second pot with no stain in for the lighter colours. My husband hates the smell but I find it no worse than his socks after being inside wellington boots all day !! I would also like to say how much I have learnt from your posts about all your beautiful tools especially the post about box loops the only problem being it has given me a lot more ideas for my harness work and now I need to find time to work on it along with the many other ideas I find on this site.

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Hello fivewayswelshcobs..................

I've made many saddles.

But non-English ...sondern French.

Which differ in the saddle pad they are associated, but made extra and felt and then covered with leather with the inner leaves of the saddle.

But otherwise they are built, such as the English on strained wood trees.

It delighted of course, if the articles you find here interesting...((((-:

Yes, bone glue smells somewhat strictly, and if it is old in the form of plates, he smells a little more.

Earlier could not be clean produce glue as they are today, that old bone glue is a little bit better.

But as I said, I'll try whether you can hold liquid with "Isoprophylalkohol", so that you can always take it out of the bottle and use.

The alcohol then completely covered the smell of bone glue.

Pots for hot glue can be found everywhere, every Carpenter had used as a pot.

I found my 3 at flea markets and old Saddlers.

Here are some links.

A product by the way, comes from the United States, but even the Chinese make which then of course very cheap at the price.

http://German.Alibaba.com/product-GS/professional-mini-glue-pot-hot-glue-pot-hot-melt-glue-pot-1129483718.html

http://www.deffner-Johann.de/elektrischer-leimtopf-hold-HEET-65-c-Kupfer-900-ml-MIT-Deckel.html

It is written with........ "Hold Heet Glue Pot, EMCO Electric Co. made in Chicago IL."

Here are just a little expensive in the Switzerland, you should be much cheaper.

I use the little oven as shown on the picture, which is but already a great model with a capacity of approx. half a litre.

The small burner with petroleum is sufficient as a heating system.

I think this small oven have used also mainly the Sattler, because Carpenter needed much larger amounts.

They were often right large wood stoves in combination with Heisleimbehältern.

Here a very nice model.

https://www.oldfashion.ch/wohnzubehoer/oefen/leimofen1701006.php

Also, the book binder and the Gilder and many other craftsmen needed bone glue.

http://Kleinanzeigen.eBay.de/anzeigen/s-Anzeige/alter-tischler-leimtopf/140104065-240-910

Greeting Walter

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Hi leather craftsman...

I have now finished the recipe for the liquid brilliance of edges of bone glue and tried out.

Earlier I chewed the gloss Yes finished one, today, there are unfortunately no longer him.

So, as you can see on the pictures, I have bone glue with 1.2 dl water swell again 50 grams.

Then he is to a chunk which is like jelly, or like a little hard vanilla pudding...((-:

I give into the glue pot and heat it until it is pretty liquid.

Then I give to isopropyl alcohol and casters 0.8 dl. the warm Knochenlein in a glass container.

The glue separates then something and looks weird, you can see it in the pictures.

But never mind, we stir few minutes well it and he is again consistent. To the touch but something out picks copper or chromium steel use, so that the glue will not discolor.

Now let the glue cool and while he is evenly dissolved in the isopropyl alcohol.

Now we cast even a tablespoon of Glycerin to, so that the edges gloss is slightly smoother.

the gloss is now permanently liquid and can warm up at any time without use.

Just on the edge of the leather and shiny with a cloth rub.

The shine because the alcohol in a sealed container store, otherwise the alcohol evaporated naturally.

You want to have slightly thicker consistency, add just some bone glue, but only as long as it is still warm, otherwise it improperly blends.

So the recipe again:

50 Grams of bone glue.

Let 1.2 DL. to swell in water.

0.8 DL Isoprophylalkohol to the liquid to keep the bone glue.

1 Tablespoon Glycerin.

The gloss I made here is now 2 weeks old and he no longer separated, yes he stayed pretty fluid and evenly.

There should be a sediment, simply shake before use.

So check it out, because you can the components to the edges glory decades store without that they are bad.

Greeting

Walter

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Edited by walter roth

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Hello everybody...

I was last weekend when a customer of mine.

He repainted the carriage and collects them.

He has also a Museum for the people to the look at the coach.

He has a few really nice and elegant carriage by Swiss truck farmers.

The Switzerland based fashion above all to Paris and not England.

Because the French were the masters of elegant lines.

I did the upholstery in the car, leather covering tops and the sky in the.

then the buck wedges, so the wedge - cushion for the Coachman and the spraying ceilings, so leather cover with which the driver protected from dirt and water spray.

These leather covers are folded on the splash Board at the front of the carriage and fastened with leather straps.

Then I did of course also the fenders.

All with 2 layers of leather by approx. 3 mm thick, painted and grained (Buffalo scars).

And of course they are sewn by hand.

I could do unfortunately not really good photos. In the Museum are lamps on the ceiling that show strong and I had also some little time, I could not extra nice make the carriages because the space there.

then I took a few photos of collars, which are also out of my hand.

so-called ( Bündner-Kummte ) = Bündner-Collars, were used here to moderate work, these are not for carriage.

the I dare that made have, I'm always on the Board behind the backrest, my name, the date, the prize for the work. the time that I needed to, etc. posted.

At some point in 100 years that will read maybe someone if he dare have be done to...Maybe...(((-:

So much fun with the watch.

Greeting

Walter

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Edited by walter roth

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Here the second part of the photo.

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And here is a car...

By the way, are from the Museum...

http://www.Kutschen-Museum.ch/

Unfortunately I could venture that not as a whole take pictures...))-:

Next time I will do better, so you can see how also a Coach Looks.

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Edited by walter roth

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