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About fivewayswelshcobs

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    english saddles, bridlework and harness
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  1. I'd swap your workshop for mine anyday. We are about as far from the sea as you can get in the UK.
  2. Commercial ones may be pressed out, most of us either make a template or cut the head using measurements. Experience will help decide which to use. I tend to cut directly if one off. To make pad use the head shape but keep the edge of the pad very close to the front as there is no point shaping around the ears then extending the pad 1/8th inch forward hence the pad showing more at the back. Remember when covering the pad allow for the thickness of the soft leather so the foam may be same or slightly narrower than the head itself. Remember to taper ends in at the ends for a good finish.
  3. Cut taper to top strap, glue then stitch. Once stitched trim back piece using top as guide by cutting straight down along the edge. Finish the edges.
  4. I always work flat but usually trim the padding to length at the end of stitching, ie before stitching over the end. Keeps the padding flatter rather than forcing it to be the same length. It still lies flat but much less wrinkled.
  5. Bought mine in Iceland, usually use it as an insert for colour and texture.
  6. Hi, Justanil, From the pictures your sequence looks OK but the thing that struck me is it looks like you're stitching downwards rather than fairly level to the floor. A slight slope is OK but the pictures make it look very awkward. Yes you need to look down on where you are stitching but also along it (technically you shouldn't even look at the backside but most of us do). The main thing to get even stitches is to practice putting the needles through in the same place everytime. I was taught in Walsall always to sew towards you holding the awl and making holes as you go and not putting the awl or needles down as everytime you did the stitch altered. It is worth watch some of the stitchers on YouTube and then practicing the method that suits you the best as we all stitch slightly differently depending on where and how we learnt. I hope this helps.
  7. Have you looked at the T bar stirrup leathers, instead of a buckle there is a T bar fitting , when in use a cover slides down over the fitting to help protect the saddle. Abbey sell the fittings. I've not used them but many people do to reduce the bulk under the leg.
  8. Try Dave Budd, saw him at Torm last year and kept his card (www.davebudd.com). UK based and the knives looked useful.
  9. You can also buy leather for stirrup leathers as strips from Abbey which reduces the cost, no idea what shipping would be.
  10. Perhaps I'm cheap but I use snips that were made for gardening as much better value than leather ones , mine came in at about £3 but nice and sharp.
  11. Yes heat the creaser. It needs to be fairly hot , I use the old wet finger method to test the heat if it doesn't feel hot it is too cool and if it sizzles it may be hot enough, alternatively use a scrap piece of leather if it burns through the top layer it is too hot etc. Mostly it comes with experience and again practice. I would use a clean flame as anything that can produce soot will stain the leather. I have used a small blowtorch before now but currently use a camping gas stove top as it is easy and controllable (the blowtorch tended to get too hot very quickly)
  12. The picture of the saddle hanging up gave me best laugh I've had for weeks. It shows what can be done when challenged. Personally I have done many by hand without dropping the panel and a number where you have to take the flap off as there is no access but have never tried saddle suspension!
  13. To clarify the 2 hours I normally do a belt in it is 8 or 10 to the inch and sewn traditionally with the awl and needles held all of the time and leather stitch marked. I may add it has taken some years to get to this speed and lots of practice and I also like hand sewing.
  14. Usually one thread per side and 2 hours.
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