fivewayswelshcobs

I could be interested. I'm based near Warwick uk

I've used the small clamp on led lights from IKEA.

Where abouts are you and have you got pictures?

I use the rawhide girth straps as well.

I would never put metal prongs against any animal so all my harness and collars etc is lined as is most of what I've seen . The only evidence of no lining is some which has been botched by an amateur or foreign made.

Personally I have some elastic already made up with the chapes so an easy swap. I hand stich using existing holes. If buckle OK will reuse but not always worth it.

Bakers in Colyton Devon, I also use Cracks, Metropolitan and Abbey (Sedgwicks) Sorry forgot Midgley in Cheddar

I've been been selling leather goods at craft markets for around 15 years people do like to see me hand stitching, it is a good way to start a conversation. Belts out of English bridle leather along with dog collars and leads are the best sellers. Key fobs made from off cuts also sell especially bright colours. Purses, wallets etc ok but everyone seems to compare them to mass produced. Most of my orders are for made to measure items - it is impossible to carry everything possible in stock, it is quite easy to make up afterwards and post, that way I can offer a wider range of colours, widths and buckles so make it individual. I rarely stamp items because of the leather I use but did one show with a chap carving bags , he had quite large group watching all potential customers ! I hope this year is better and easier than last 2 years with more customers and fewer restrictions.

Abbey England sell Tilbury tugs and I believe they ship to the USA.

PVA glue is very useful on lighter leathers especially before stitching when contact adhesive is too much and repositioning of layers is often needed. It also has the advantage if it drys it can be rewetted and will stick again. I wouldn't use it on bridle leathers or saddles except when added to edge stain to finish the edges - it saves time and gives a good finish.

I'd swap your workshop for mine anyday. We are about as far from the sea as you can get in the UK.

Commercial ones may be pressed out, most of us either make a template or cut the head using measurements. Experience will help decide which to use. I tend to cut directly if one off. To make pad use the head shape but keep the edge of the pad very close to the front as there is no point shaping around the ears then extending the pad 1/8th inch forward hence the pad showing more at the back. Remember when covering the pad allow for the thickness of the soft leather so the foam may be same or slightly narrower than the head itself. Remember to taper ends in at the ends for a good finish.

Cut taper to top strap, glue then stitch. Once stitched trim back piece using top as guide by cutting straight down along the edge. Finish the edges.

I always work flat but usually trim the padding to length at the end of stitching, ie before stitching over the end. Keeps the padding flatter rather than forcing it to be the same length. It still lies flat but much less wrinkled.

What are you looking for?