Macca Report post Posted April 19, 2014 ohh, those dies look very, very nice ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
walter roth Report post Posted April 19, 2014 (edited) Let`s see if i can Use it.......((((-: You have the mass in inches, ....not in cm. Walter Edited April 19, 2014 by walter roth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old Coach Saddlery Report post Posted July 10, 2014 Hi Walter, Your work is beautiful! I too love the German tools. I have several German made punches that I prefer over my Osborne punches. I have found it very difficult to find them. I envy you collection of fine tools. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
walter roth Report post Posted August 25, 2014 (edited) Hello leather craftsmen .... I was 6 weeks in a distant land, i could not answer. I assume the link has now been found. Thanks for the praise. I'm still looking saddler sew pliers, but get no more. Well, now I'm back and will post here again slightly. greeting Walter Edited August 25, 2014 by walter roth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billybopp Report post Posted August 25, 2014 Welcome home Walter! Thank you, and all the others for posting pictures and contributing to this thread. It's totally fascinating. I love seeing these old tools that were crafted with such wonderful artistry. I have to confess, that I occasionally take a look at Bruce Johnson's web site to see what he has on offer, and usually find myself drooling just a little bit. Love it! I especially want to thank you for the picture, in the original post, of the thread cage. It brought back some great memories. My great grandfather was a farmer and had a few of these in his house and his barn. I remember the one in the barn had twine in it that he used all the time. Your picture even brought back memories of the earthy smells in the barn, and of the smell and taste of fresh fried chicken with string beans and corn on the cob that he and I had just picked hours before. He was a kind soul, and wasn't even angry when my little sister half emptied the cage of twine onto the floor. He just laughed because she found it fascinating. I live in a big city now, so I suppose it's true that "you can take the boy out of the country, but can't completely take the country out of the boy". Thanks for the memory! Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
walter roth Report post Posted August 26, 2014 Hi Bill ..... I also grew up on the farm.And I had the most beautiful play ground one could wish for.Father gave me a cow, the most tame he had, and with which I could do whatever I wanted.And of course I went already with seven years with the tractor today ...... would the police arrest me .... ((-:And I always had a gun. With seven years as an air rifle, with 12 years a 6 mm caliber Long Rifle rifle. And where I was in the forest, I had it.Well, I had a workshop, they belonged to my father, and in which I could do something all day.It was a good, healthy and exciting time when I was little ....... Greeting Walter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Macca Report post Posted August 28, 2014 Welcome back Walter ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simontuntelder Report post Posted January 5, 2015 I'm really sad to see this thread's activity decline as much as it has. This was pure tool porn and many of the people here on LW that I respect the most have posted in this thread, so I would really like to revive it. So how's everybody and more importantly have you bought any new tools? I've been buying old tools and machinery like there's no tomorrow. I'm gearing up for the future, I guess. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
walter roth Report post Posted January 5, 2015 Hi Simon... Yes you're right. So, I tried before 2 months long to adjust something, unfortunately it didn't work out. Somehow, the programs from Europe work together not good with those from the United States...(((-: Anyway, I very often have problems here to write something and then give it up... Because it is at the moment just I'll set "Sewing-Awls grind" tomorrow finally something on the subject. I have prepared long time ago. Greeting to all Walter Roth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simontuntelder Report post Posted January 5, 2015 Walter, I've never experienced any problems with Leatherworker. I don¨t think there are many differences between European or American programs/browsers.If you need help with the translations, I'll gladly help you translate from German to English. I'm quite fluent in German and in English, and it would be no problem what so ever for me to do it. If you want me to help with the translation, just send your German text to me in a PM, and I'll respond with a translated version. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
walter roth Report post Posted March 5, 2015 (edited) Hi leather craftsman... Here the months overdue post on the topic of sewing Awls prepare. So, my "Murphy" has struck just a few times. The PC had problems, the compressor, then the hydraulic press.So I had no time what to do here. Well I hope that it will get better and I can show you what. So the following photos, unfortunately as always without macro lens the photos taken, this is unfortunately not quite sharp. I was asleep on the Ahlen on the machine, how do I front once described in this tread. that is, I loop it with the paste Lea Compound. It is important that the tip of the awl is slightly rounded. It should if it is approaching in the deepening of the marked by the prick stands up, not too pointed them be nice einmittet so. that is, it stands a not l8inks or right, what happens when a very pointed awl tip, but just nice in the Middle moves and makes a regular stitch set. The awl may be ground only in the insertion direction. to do that well, she will sink into the leather without any effort. You can then sting them with the tip of the index finger through the leather. Also the awl may not be flattened, because otherwise you have a width to Ahlen to draw hole make the sewing needles by the awl.An awl to width makes but no nice seam. I hope it does well enough on the photos. The Ahlen loop can be also with different stones. As first flatten it with a simple carborundum stone, then a white Arkansas polishing and to the very fine make a Belgian rock take. The Belgian is quite soft and it has a Groove in the stone with the form of awl of iron, so you can Polish the awl good around the area immediately. Stitch but always in the direction of the awl work, which is very important. I have can, otherwise I would have a very large awl pattern it not photographing, but the work remains exactly the same with the small. the insert in the boxwood handle should be done very carefully. Pre-drill the hole is clean and dimensionally accurate and 2 components adhesive use the awl together with some "Araldite". Previously used "Rosin", which is simply the resin which used in the violin bow to treat the horse tail hair.The Rosin easy cooking liquid in a water bath and into the hole, insert the tool and after a few minutes the Rosin resin is hard. But it is better to apply as for the fine sewing awls for larger tools, as Araldite keeps better. I put the photos to this post tonight. I just have trouble to write here and especially the copy into almost never really works. I know not what it is...??? Edited March 5, 2015 by walter roth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
walter roth Report post Posted March 5, 2015 Hallo Lederhandwerker....... Hier selbe der Post in Deutsch. Also hiermit der seit Monaten überfällige Post zum Thema Näh-Ahlen vorbereiten. Also, bei mir hat "Murphy" gleich ein paar mal zugeschlagen. Der PC hatte Probleme, der Kompressor, dann die Hydraulikpresse.Also ich hatte kaum noch Zeit was zu tun hier. Nun hoffe ich aber das es wieder besser wird und ich euch was zeigen darf. Also im folgenden die Fotos, leider wie immer ohne makro-Objektiv aufgenommen, dadurch leider nicht ganz scharf die Fotos. Ich schliefe die Ahlen auf der Maschine, wie habe ich weiter vorne in diesem Tread einmal beschrieben. das heisst, ich schleife sie mit der Paste Lea Compound. Wichtig ist, das die Spitze der Ahle etwas abgerundet ist. Sie sollte wenn sie in die Vertiefung der angezeichneten naht vom Prick einsticht, nicht zu spitzig sein damit sie sich schön einmittet. das heisst, sie nicht l8inks oder rechts einsticht, was bei einer sehr spitzen Ahlenspitze passiert, sondern eben sich schön in die Mitte begibt und so eine regelmässige Stichreihe macht. Die Ahle darf immer nur in der Stichrichtung geschliffen werden. macht man das gut, wird sie in das Leder einsinken ohne jeden Kraftaufwand. Man kann sie dann mit der Spitze des Zeigefingers durchs Leder stechen. Zudem darf die Ahle nicht zu sehr abgeflacht werden, denn sonst muss man eine zu briete Ahle nehmen um die Näh-Nadeln noch durch das Ahlen Loch zu ziehen.Eine zu breite Ahle macht aber keine schönes Nahtbild. Ich hoffe man sieht es auf den Fotos gut genug. Schleifen lassen sich die Ahlen auch mit den verschiedenen Steinen. Als erstes das abflachen mit einem simplen Carborundum-Stein, dann einen weissen Arkansas polieren und zum ganz fein machen einen "Belgischen Brocken" nehmen. Der Belgier ist recht weich und man hat sofort eine Rille im Stein mit der Form des Ahleneisens, womit man die Ahle gut auf der ganzen Fläche polieren kann. Aber immer in der Stichrichtung der Ahle arbeiten, das ist sehr wichtig. Ich habe als Muster eine sehr grosse Ahle genommen, sonst hätte ich es nicht Fotografieren können, aber die Arbeit bleibt bei den kleinen genau die selbe. Das einsetzen im Buchsbaumgriff sollte sehr vorsichtig gemacht werden. Das Loch darin sauber und masshaltig vorbohren, nur wenig kleiner wie die Ahle selber, denn Buchsbaum reisst recht schnell. Die Ahle zusammen mit etwas "Araldit" ....."2 Komponenten Klebstoff" einsetzen. Früher benutzte man dazu einfach "Kolofonium", das ist das Harz welches man bei den Geigenbogen verwendet um die Pferdeschweifhaare zu behandeln.Das Kolofonium einfach im Wasserbad flüssig kochen und ins Loch geben, das Werkzeug einsetzen und nach wenigen Minuten ist das Kolofonium-Harz hart. Aber es ist bei grösseren Werkzeugen besser anzuwenden wie bei den feinen Nähahlen, da hält Araldit besser. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
walter roth Report post Posted March 5, 2015 (edited) Hi Leathercraftsmen...... Se here the Photos to my last Post. Walter Edited March 5, 2015 by walter roth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simontuntelder Report post Posted March 5, 2015 Hallo Walter, thank you so much for that explanation. I never knew that you were supposed to ground the tip of the awl. I have some extra Blanchard awls lying around - I'll try to sharpen one of them according to your explanation when I get some extra time on my hand. And I'll also have to order some of that Lea compound that you speak so highly of. Which machine do you ground/sharpen/polish the awls on - is it just a regular bench grinder? Vielen dank für die deutsche Version. Ich verstand alles viel besser. Und ich will gerne mit einer Übersetzung in der Zukunft helfen. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted March 5, 2015 Thank you Walter, this was a very good lesson in how to correctly set up an awl blade. Its obvious you have been hand sewing all your life, this was very interesting. After reading this I have gone true all my own awl blades, and they are all either to rounded or to pointy set up. I now understand why they need to be just like yours; to strike perfect in the middle of the pricking mark. I will reshape one and try this out. Great guide Walter; thank you. I have also experienced some problems with the LW text editor before, I solved them with clearing my Internet browser cache and history. That seams to have taken care of my problems with it. Anyway, I hope you are well; its been some time since I last was online here. Thank Tor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Macca Report post Posted March 6, 2015 great post Walter, thanks for you efforts ! Hello to all the old familiar faces, hope you are all doing well Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
walter roth Report post Posted March 15, 2015 Hallo Zusammen. Das Programm hier legt sich einfach Quer................. Einen Tag geht es den anderen nicht mehr......????' Ich schreibe es Deutsch und möchte "Simon Untelder" bitten es zu übersetzen. Es ist ja sehr wichtig, das wenn man ohne Sticheisen ( hier in der Schweiz nennt man sie "Kämme" weil sie aussehen wie ein Haarkamm ) arbeitet, das die gestochenen Löcher der Näh-Ahle ganz gleichmässig auf einer Linie zu liegen kommen. Der Sattler näht ja nur Nähte die gestaffelt sind, also ein schräger Stich nach dem anderen, .....niemals gerade Stiche die man ja auch mit Rund-Ahle stechen könnte. Auch verwende ich beispielsweise nur gedrehten Faden, niemals geflochtenen. Ich selber nehme meist "Koban" Faden, also mit einem synthetischen Kern der mit Baumwolle umflochten ist. Mein Nächster Post handelt von den "Nähröschen", also den Näh-Zangen die wir in der Schweiz seit 100 Jahren verwenden. Gruss Walter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
walter roth Report post Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) Hallo Zusammen. Ich habe einige Anfragen zum Thema "Nährössli" ( Näh-Zange) bekommen. Wirt Schweizer verwenden die Nähkloben, ....zum klemmen zwischen den Beinen, ja seit 100 Jahren nicht mehr. Auch das Grosse zum drauf sitzen ist bei uns nicht mehr Aktuell, denn diese kleineren Modelle lassen sich sehr gut Positionieren, je nachdem was man zum einspannen hat. Ich habe davon Schablonen gemacht weil die geschwungenen Formen zum vermassen nicht einfach sind. Die gesamthöhe ist 80 cm. aber das ist nur für Männer bis 160 cm. gross genug, alle darüber sollten es auf 85 cm, erhöhen. Auch die Bodenplatte dürfte etwas grösser und vor allem Schwerer ausfallen damit es mehr Stand hat. ich habe ein Platte von 5 cm. drunter gemacht. Das Material ist bei mit Weissbuche, aber auch gedämpfte Buche oder wie beim Fusshebel, Schichtsperrholz ist geeignet. Simon, wärst Du so freundlich uns übersetzt mir den Post für die anderen Leser....?? Gruss Walter Edited March 15, 2015 by walter roth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simontuntelder Report post Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) Hallo Zusammen. Es ist ja sehr wichtig, das wenn man ohne Sticheisen ( hier in der Schweiz nennt man sie "Kämme" weil sie aussehen wie ein Haarkamm ) arbeitet, das die gestochenen Löcher der Näh-Ahle ganz gleichmässig auf einer Linie zu liegen kommen. Der Sattler näht ja nur Nähte die gestaffelt sind, also ein schräger Stich nach dem anderen, .....niemals gerade Stiche die man ja auch mit Rund-Ahle stechen könnte. Auch verwende ich beispielsweise nur gedrehten Faden, niemals geflochtenen. Ich selber nehme meist "Koban" Faden, also mit einem synthetischen Kern der mit Baumwolle umflochten ist. Mein Nächster Post handelt von den "Nähröschen", also den Näh-Zangen die wir in der Schweiz seit 100 Jahren verwenden. Gruss Walter I'll try my best to translate Walter's posts from German to English. I think there's a lot of knowledge to be shared from him. BUT please do keep in mind that German isn't my first language, and I haven't got the time to do a completely precise translation, nor do I have the knowledge. But I will do my best to give you the meaning and the essence of it, so not a 100% accurate translation. Here goes. "If you aren't using a pricking iron (which is called a comb in Switzerland because it looks like a haircomb), it's very important that you keep the holes aligned and straight when you are using an awl to punch the holes. A saddler's stitches are done in a slightly acute angle, so they have a slanted appearance. They are never flat or straight, then you could might as well be sewing with a round awl. Also I always use twisted thread, never a braided thread. Personally I usually use a thread called Koban, which is a polycore thread - polyester and cotton. My next post will be on the stitching clams/sewing clamps that we have used in Switzerland for over a 100 years" Edited March 15, 2015 by simontuntelder Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simontuntelder Report post Posted March 15, 2015 Hallo Zusammen. Ich habe einige Anfragen zum Thema "Nährössli" ( Näh-Zange) bekommen. Wirt Schweizer verwenden die Nähkloben, ....zum klemmen zwischen den Beinen, ja seit 100 Jahren nicht mehr. Auch das Grosse zum drauf sitzen ist bei uns nicht mehr Aktuell, denn diese kleineren Modelle lassen sich sehr gut Positionieren, je nachdem was man zum einspannen hat. Ich habe davon Schablonen gemacht weil die geschwungenen Formen zum vermassen nicht einfach sind. Die gesamthöhe ist 80 cm. aber das ist nur für Männer bis 160 cm. gross genug, alle darüber sollten es auf 85 cm, erhöhen. Auch die Bodenplatte dürfte etwas grösser und vor allem Schwerer ausfallen damit es mehr Stand hat. ich habe ein Platte von 5 cm. drunter gemacht. Das Material ist bei mit Weissbuche, aber auch gedämpfte Buche oder wie beim Fusshebel, Schichtsperrholz ist geeignet. Gruss Walter "I have received some questions regarding the sewing clamps (or rather the special Swiss swing clamps) The Swiss saddlers used to use the sewing clamps that one held clamped down between one's legs, but they don't use that any more. Even the big ones (not quite sure which one is refered to) which you sit on, are not used by us any longer because this smaller model is very easy to position and use depending on what you need to clamp. I have made templates of this because the curved shapes are very hard to measure. The total height of the sewing clamp is 80 cm, however that is only suitable if your height is around 1.60 m, if you're taller, you should make the clamp 85 cm tall. The base plate should also be made somewhat bigger, so it has a bit more heft, if you're working on a big or heavy project. I have made it with a 5 cm thick plate underneath. The material used is hornbeam (kind of beech), but one could use steamed beech or even plywood for the foot lever." IF any of this doesn't make sense, I'll try to do a more accurate translation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor Report post Posted March 17, 2015 No need trying to improve this translation Simon. This is pretty accurate. I guess everyone gets it. Centimeter converts to inch as follows 1" = 2.54 cm. Therefore 80 cm ~ 31.5", 85 cm ~ 33.5" and 5 cm ~ 2". With big ones, he refers to the actual stitching horse, not the pony. The chair kind. With plywood he refers not to just any kind of plywood. The appropriate German term is Multiplex, usually made from birch. This would be so called Laminated Veneer Lumber (LVL) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laminated_veneer_lumber. Very durable material. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
walter roth Report post Posted March 17, 2015 Danke Thor für die Erläuterungen….. Und auch ganz vielen Dank für die Übersetzungen ….Simonuntelder. Natürlich habe ich genau das Material gemeint, das „Sperrholz“ aus Birke. Es gibt das nicht so dick, aber es lässt sich sehr gut Schichtweise verleimen, oder mit normalem Holz kombinieren. Innen Birken-Sperrholz, aussen normales Holz. Wie gesagt, sollte es jemand herstellen wollen, so kann ich ihm die Muster-Schablonen zur Verfügung stellen. Oder ich gebe sie einem in den USA und ihr tauscht sie untereinander aus. Heute funktioniert das einstellen hier im Blog sehr gut................... Gruss Walter Thanks Thor for the explanation......... And also many thanks for the translation... Simonuntelder. Of course, I just meant exactly the material, the "Mutiplex"-Birch. There is not as thick, but it can glue is very good, layers, or combine it with normal wood. Indoor Birch-Mutiplex, outside normal wood. As I said, it should wish to someone, so I can't make him available to the pattern templates. Or I give them one in the United States, and her exchanges with each other they. Today works that set here in the blog very good Greting Walter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor Report post Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) Okay that translation lost a bit of the actual meaning, therefore I'd like to fix it, but be brief with it. Walter offers to provide the templates or give them to someone in the states so they can be passed on from one person to the next. My two cents... Forward them to tboyce or ask him if he'd be willing to make a digital pattern for everyone to download. One thing that should be mentioned is either where to get the hardware or how to make it. Besides Walter, your English is much better than most of these guys' German. @Walter Ich glaube es sollte noch erwähnt werden wo die Beschläge zu erhalten sind, oder wie man sie selbst macht. Solltest du Hilfe benötigen, um tboyce zu erklären was du möchtest, kannst gern schreiben. Edited March 17, 2015 by Thor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
walter roth Report post Posted March 17, 2015 Hallo Lederhandwerker……. Also, die Beschläge kann man nicht kaufen, man muss sie selber herstellen.Es sind sehr einfache Teile zum anfertigen, jeder Schmied, Metallhandwerker …..oder jemand der schweissen kann, macht das leicht.Ich dachte mir, das man das Material, … ))) wenn es nicht Chromstahl ist (((, ……….in jedem Baumarkt findet, die Teile selber zurechtmacht und sie zum schweissen bringt.Schraubstock, Feile, Eisensäge und Bohrmaschine sollte da genügen. Das Bogenteil bei der Fussklinke kann man übrigens auch gerade machen, hier unter dem Links sieht man das…. http://shop.leder-louis.ch/product/Sattler-Naehzange-schweizer-Modell./587 Diese Klemmeinrichtung ist die bessere Version und sie braucht kein Bogenteil, nur ein Stück 4-Kantstahl.Chromstahl erfordert besondere Werkzeuge, denn er lässt sich nicht so einfach sägen, feilen, bohren oder schweissen. Die Schnittmuster „Digitalisieren“ ja sollte wohl irgendwie gehen, habs aber noch nie gemacht…….. Gruss Walter Hi leather craftsman... So, you can not buy the fittings, it must make them. There are very simple parts to the customize every blacksmith, metal craftsmen ...oder someone who can weld, it makes it easy. I thought to myself, the one the material,...))) If it is not chrome steel (((,...find in any hardware store, the parts themselves makes their way and they to the welding brings. File, Metall-Cuting-Saw, Vise and Drillmaschine should be enough there. You can also just make the elbow part at the foot of Jack, under the links there are http://shop.leder-louis.ch/product/Sattler-Naehzange-schweizer-Modell./587... This terminal facility is the better version and it needs no part of the bow, only a piece of 4 square steel. Chromesteel requires special tools, because it is not so easy to saw, file, drill or weld. The pattern "Digitizing" Yes should somehow go, but never made it... Greeting Walter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted March 17, 2015 Great stuff Walter, and thanks to Simon and Thor for translating; there is always some German words and technical terms I do not understand. Please note me up for a template Walter, that Swiss clamp looks better than anything else I ever seen. The hardware on Leder Louis`s model is much simpler to make than the original one. However, the exact measurements will save us some trail and error. Are the curved jaws made of one piece of hornbeam wood, that tree does not grow north of Denmark. Any other recommended wood I could use instead, otherwise I have to visit Oslo Botanical garden at night time Thanks Tor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
