Tools Of A Swiss Sattler

[walter roth]

Hi leather craftsman...

Tor : Thank you for your praise.

Here is what titled collar manufacturing.

you need these tools. so-called "Rhembourroir" in French, or "Collar filling sticks" on German.

With which it fills rye straw in the collars, so in the prepared leather cover.

These here are by Blanchard, I've never seen such from other workshops.

Small Yes, but not the large 1 m - 1.40 m length.

There are Sword-shaped blade, so as that you need the cutting Ahlen to sew, then in cross-section, oval, flat and round.

Some of these myself many times have used here.

How to use it, I think I'm going to a later once a series where you can see the collar production.

The flat Füllstöcke, which was used for the fill of seat cushions.

I like her but do not like to work, I'd rather have the itself made, the flat are too flexible to me.

Greeting

Walter

Edited September 13, 2013 by walter roth

[Macca]

wow, those are some big tools !

I wonder if I could use them for wallets & belts ?

[Macca]

I posted some stitching clamps in another thread

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42815&st=15#entry320732

[walter roth]

Hello Macca

The so-called "Nähkloben", as set out in the Switzerland hot, or as you say "Stitching-Clamps", which used more so for decades no one here no longer.

Thus, you can make no ordinary program.

Also the grpssen Molle which are so-called "sewing steeds" (sewing horses) here already use which come.

Here to use only such things, which is available in different price ranges, this is the best, but also the most expensive.

It is appropriate and makes work easier for very... The clamping mechanism is very strong and hold the leather to the sew safely and securely.

http://lederflechten.ch/e_shop/popup_image.php?pID=587&osCsid=fk2o6gbv47bl8f49p7ergfhn31

Under the link, you'll find a picture.

Greeting

Walter

[Macca]

mein Gott

der Preis!

[Trox]

That was an expensive stitching pony (clamp) it looks good. Here is the Norwegian stitching horse with steel legs. http://www.finn.no/finn/torget/annonse?finnkode=42320432&searchQuery=J%F8rn+jensen

Its expensive but not so much as the Swiss one. This is 2990 Nok = 506 US$ or 381 Euro.

They also make a couple of Geifuss`s here; in V and U profile (U and V grooving iron). Norway and Switzerland are among the world most expensive countries to shop in.

Tor

[walter roth]

Absolutely correct Macca...((((-:

The Switzerland is expensive...

Norway also.

But I think one of the most important items have a SADDLER must.

The clean sewing is the scale of each leather work, not the decoration on the leather. Unfortunately, many leather artisans confuse this.

The professional man looks at always the seam just comes and then the rest comes.

And the sewing horse is what you need, in addition to the tools the most important.

I have seen very many leather artisans, they could make often excellent decorations, but the hand-sewing work was mostly bad, the bites way too big, who sewed the thread not sunk back, visibly crossed, etc.

I would really recommend, buys a good sewing horse and learns once at a SADDLER sew how with the.

Yes, I know really well and finely sew Sattler, which are also hard to find.

I use my sewing horse for 30 years, it is still good.

at the company Bernhard in Worblaufen, Switzerland, found a slightly cheaper model, the mechanism which is but not quite as good.

http://www.bernhardw.ch/

http://www.bernhardw.../eb690a48df.jpg

Greeting

Walter

Edited September 14, 2013 by walter roth

[walter roth]

Hi Tor................

Here at last, the way how I came to the embossing plates for the box-loops.

First I tried part then Yes to make such casts, with the metal adhesive "Araldite black" here the schwarzgraue.

In the Araldite is it however schweirig genaz z just work, because the original leather loops were 100 years old and of course warped and weird.

Also tolerated these plates 8 metric tons not more pressure as s, 12 tons they got cracking.

That because that glue is not very compact, it has always Lufstblasen like in the cheese.

You can no longer use such plates for a small series.

Then we have the pattern on Kuperplatten gfrässt to make ...bei quite simple geometric patterns.

These copper plates used during "Erosion" as electrical pole, EDM works Yes by elekrtischem power.

While the Kuper is worn but also, which means that the edge will always round, always flat. You can use 2 times the coppers to make tools, then they are consumed.

The steel plates that I see here who have moved I have hard chromium for rust protection, layer in the "Durit" - 1-1/2.

It lasts decades but expensive.

By the way, have I to crisp the steel plates still, I did it with a graver as the engraver used him. You can see it in the corners well...

The Rhombus of the hatch with a tool, I looked that this pyramid-shaped hollows a smoother surface get what one sees on the embossed leather very well.

Somehow American and Swiss computer not good adjourn itself, which lyrics I are great once, then underlined, then small.............))-:

Greeting

Walter

[Macca]

posted some pictures of some French stuff that was waiting on me when I got back

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=50618entry322187

will keep me busy over winter refurbishing this lot

more to come, I seriously need to stop buying stuff !

[walter roth]

Hello Macca

Did you buy anything without the plough blades for the ploughs...???...((-:

The first knife in the left row down, because I would be interested if you want to sell it once!

The eyelet machine is very nice, with the brass parts because.

In the half-moons it will be difficult if she surface on which rust scars, you won't get that.

If one has once honed the blade up these scars, then it hardly still possible a good cut to grind.

I've posted here even in the tread how I loop the things, I'd also the splitting machine with the lea make compound.

Here again the link to do so. http://www.Lea.co.UK/help-and-advice/reference-charts/greaseless-abrasive-compounds.php

There is nothing better, and it is much more effective as any other polishing paste.

Grit No. 80 and 120 are ideal.

I will make a few photos to the topic and set here.

Greeting

Walter

[Macca]

Hello friends, I missed this one http://www.ebay.ca/i...3#ht_421wt_1162 somebody got them self a very nice Mayer Flamery Parer. It had to be a quick sale,

Is it not the same as one of yours Walter?

Hey Tor,

Another one has just gone up on Ebay.fr

http://www.ebay.fr/itm/OUTIL-ANCIEN-MACHINE-a-PARER-de-BOURRELIER-CORDONNIER-CUIR-LEATHER-SHAVE-/290984308870?pt=FR_JG_Art_Objets_XIX&hash=item43c0043086

[Trox]

Hey Tor,

Another one has just gone up on Ebay.fr

http://www.ebay.fr/i...=item43c0043086

Thank you Macca, this one starts high. Today I did a very good buy on a Fortuna band knife splitter, a big box with allot of clicking dies (shoe related mostly), A very nice little United shoe machine pinking machine with many tools (bench machine, it can be used as an embosser too) several rolls of leather and vinyl etc. On the purchase the seller gave me an old Adler class 5-25 head for free. It was stuck, I used an half hour and half a liter diesel (lamp oil) and now it turns, it looks good too. A bit rust inside, it will come off. I do not want to tell you the price yet, I can tell you it was very... very cheap. I think this will be my best one so far, because the band knife machine is normally priced very high. The old man who sold it to me could not use any of his stuff anymore and was happy to get rid of it. The machine works very well. Its a machine just like this one ( but not this one), I will post a picture of it later when I have it in my shop. I have to get this one in my shop before I buy any more, I am completely stuffed. Thanks for telling me, I will see how high it goes.

Here is a picture of that pinking machine, it is some more option on it you can put a V belt on it and its a pulley on a shaft behind machine too ( you do not see it on this pic). I also found a small nice stove for heating finishing tools (like creasers and such)

It needs some cleaning up of course.

Tor

Edited September 25, 2013 by Trox

[Macca]

nice find !

[walter roth]

Hi Ray .....

I do not always have time, but I will continue to Tread long ..... (((-:

I still have many pictures I have to digitize but only before I can show them here once, and I also work with many books out plans, I would also like to show once here.

From the saddle to the collar or harness I have everything clean recorded in drawings, but I have to test how can the pictures.

So just be patient, then comes again what.

This iemenschneider, yes the cost always money.

The new in-Vergez Blanchard certainly close to 400 dollars depending on how old they are in Zustzand.

Sometimes I buy one for 100 francs, then for a lot more.

Only, ...... old Sattler found here almost no more.

But Bruce has some very nice, if you want one, that would be a good choice. As he also purifies and service is always great, he must of course have a price.

If you are looking for something specific, drop me a message and I'll have a look what may be found.

greeting

Walter

[walter roth]

Hi leather craftsman...

Here something to the topic of plough-gouge.

Some models here so could found in Switzerland. once.

Here there was almost never a steel, which you didn't like here in the Switzerland, because she quickly content.

Yes, in the 50 brought the Sattler such tools to the depositor and let chrome them en masse as rust protection.

But these tools not proven because the good hard chromium process were not yet available.

I think the ploughs were made of steel during the war years, when brass was in short supply and very expensive.

So here are a few models, and especially German by Rössler, Langenhahn, etc.

To do this, some knives and as they are ground.

And I assure you, you can shave it.

The last two blades are of Blanchard, I bought the last one in the series of images in my apprenticeship, between the and the 2 knives are probably the 60 years.

When Blanchard one is noteworthy, he changed the quality usually very long time, things aren't always exactly the same over the decades.

I used a knife 30 years now and it keeps still so long.

If the knives are well ground, must you sharpen them only twice per year.

Even if you used it for several hundred metres leather belt.

So check it out.

And as I said, the knife to the ploughs only from the left side grind, at a width of approx 1-1.5 cm. ...auf which outer side only the brow take, not more. And if you did it right, a belt will never suddenly to narrow lbe one because the plough at the cut wanders.

Greeting

Walter

Edited September 26, 2013 by walter roth

[walter roth]

Here are the rest of the images that had no place in the first post.

Walter

[walter roth]

Hi leather craftsman...

If you here earlier began his work as a student in Switzerland, you got so often a case with a basic need for tools.

They were one forever. And when it was changed his employer you took the things in just this little box.

Here in the Switzerland worked a SADDLER earlier only with his own stuff, and he brought that in the workplace, which were not provided by the master.

This is a quite old model, as I teach in the came the ais were made and no longer covered with oilcloth wood.

In addition, this model is more of an upholsterer, because this Pincushion in the lid was not so often to be found at Saddlers.

The fabric was often a rest from mohair velours, a fabric made of goat hair.

I have replaced the fabric here, the old man was full of moths.

My box was me but the teaching already much too small at the end, I had at that time already exactly 66 tools... According to list of 1982.

Greeting

Walter

[Trox]

Hello Walter, very nice ploughs. It is very interesting to see these German pattern ploughs. About the knife grind I totally agree with you, I prefer the same type of edge; left side only. It then compress the leather against the guide, its the best type of edge on a plough gouge. The reason I repeat this is because we had an discussion about plough knife-edges in the "leather tools" forum before. Thank you for sharing your history with us.

Tor

[bruce johnson]

Thank you Walter, Macca, and Tor! This is my favorite thread on the forum! One thing I am finding interesting after seeing several are the different configurations of the fences (guides). Steel, brass, two pieces of steel, etc. Then the shape viewed from the top is interesting. They all have some "flare" on the front. From there some have a long flat area. Others have a shorter flat area and may flare back out a bit on the back edge of the guide. This flare at the back seems to be a bit more common on some of the Dixons. One question I have is on the screws on the Blanchards. Is there a name for those with the rounded heads? Are they still available in Europe? One thing with them I found last year is at least some, the rounded head is threaded onto the shaft of the screw. I had a plough gauge that the head would unscrew from the shaft when it was loosened. Thank you, Bruce

[walter roth]

Hello everybody...

Thank you, it is nice that it you like, and I like to show it to you.

It is a wonderful job, you should do everything to make him die.

And I am also here interested in a completely different area of the world to learn.

Well, I'm one of the Sattler who have worked so much now.

A good Plough is more efficient to use such a large Riemenschneidmaschiene.

To get forward more quickly with the work and it needs little power doing... If they are properly ground.

The large Riemenschneider by Müller and Kurt, I long ago time sold, so a machine seemed to be useless.

http://www.sieck.de/Maschinen/riemen-schneiden/details/Mueller-Kurth-Typ-37-n-riemenschneide-reifel-und-praegemaschine-generalueberholt/

Screws with round heads.

Bruce, these screws are often missing, but you can't get them. Drinn you with round heads and the hole...

Blanchard no longer makes them for decades.

I've had to make some.

Since I make no "series" but, but just 10 pieces, she has me Meschniker by hand, which took a prize so 15 minutes per schraube...was 20 francs meant. And it's cheap in the Switzerland.

The screw with the hole but without the round head, the 12 francs are slightly cheaper.

When one makes such screws, in whatever form, in a quantity of 100, they are much cheaper.

There are sometimes also M-7, what there is in fact no longer the "metric" size M-6 and M-8, at Blanchard but the European tools.

I need some bolts of it again, I won't do that again in the next few weeks. If you need 2-3, I can give you.

If you need more it might be worthwhile to set up the machine, then they cost much less, but you must make enough.

I would have to first new ask what they cost exactly.

Sign up if you're interested.

Greeting

Walter

[Macca]

Thanks Walter

I'm back home this evening, currently away on yet another business trip

I will try the very flat grind you suggested, I was concerned this would significantly reduce the life of the cutting edge, but that doesn't seem to be the case so I can grind flat with no worries, thanks for the help

Bruce, the nearest thing you will find off the shelf is a thumb screw, some are similar to the shape of the Blanchards but made very cheaply, they are not much good, machine shop is your best bet.

With regards the fences, there were many different designs over the years, some so close that you can swap them between brands, some with very different sizes, shapes, fixings.

Yet to find a good reason for the changes, even with the same brand the design changed over time but I don't see much difference in operation, must simply have been cost

I have a range of Blanchards, the old ones changed a little over time, the newer ones changed completely although they look similar ( hollow cast to cut cost no doubt and lever adjustments rather than screws)

Also the modern blades, while the shape is the same the steel is very different (is it possible the new ones are punched from steel plate ? certainly look it)

Will stick up some pictures when I get back home

Edited September 27, 2013 by Macca

[Macca]

Oh and Walter

I could use some replacement screws ( both the round head and screw with holes)

Some of mine could do with replacements

Let me know if you are ordering some more to be made

Thanks !

[walter roth]

Hi leather Craftsman...

Now I come once to a theme, which is very, .......very important for the Sattler.

There are the sewing Awls, the Awls-handles and the iron Awls.

Called the round Ahlen and the "cutting Awls", or also "sword Awls".

I have some of my old boxes shown here, ...wohl decades-old. Where are still Awls-iron of good old quality. You can see it because it still blue authorised the Awls-iron during the curing.

--

They are already so well polished one they hardly must polishing it.

There I have not found just the boxes the sword Ahlen. but here they must in contrast to the circular Ahlen are still cut and polished, until they slip into it almost by alone in the leather.

The edge top and bottom is doing something flat polished, and rather polished cutting edges on the Ahlen-iron, or made at least not dull.

Unfortunately, you can see all bad to very bad Sattler Ahlen where to go also, never I see something really nice.

When you see something like that, one wonders what they actually have in mind.

http://www.jelldrago...ather_craft.htm

At the handles, a distinction is made between those used for boring the stitch holes, so it uses the handles for "Cutting Awls". They must never simply round, they must have always a pronounced form,..., so you take them automatically in the same way and in the hand.

This is very important, always equal angle put the stitch holes and which approaches really is regular and beautiful.

Round handles are used only for round Awls, because where it is yes no matter how you put the Ahlen-iron into the hole.

The round Ahlen here by me, which I did about 20 years ago as replacement for me, but until now still not used.

The cutting Awls also. I myself have made their handles.

I turned it on the wood-turning machine and ground. the wood is original Turkish boxwood.

At the end, I did however not painted, but waxed.

The Awls I still work with, are from the old

Variety as it was Blanchard by approximately 50-60 years.

When I came to the professional teaching, because my master and I went to the tool Cabinet to see what so there were Awls handles.

There was not much to see except just 5-6 Awls wls handles by Blanchard otherwise wanted to have that no one.

They had a form that had gone out of fashion. I took them and remained faithful to them until today, it is the best that there is.

Later, I have made a little less distinctive form, but newly made also this ancient form in ebony.

Pictured here are but from my profession teaching time.

I see very beautiful decorations on the leather, and then often a loser for leather craftsmen to fasten the buckle.

Something completely devalues the whole work in my opinion.

the classic Sattler will assess as first is always the coming, and only if that is clean and fine, he will assess the work as well.

The seam is the most important quality criterion at all.

To get good sewing, a Saddler takes at least 3 years.

In my works the seams on the back are also always sunk, so with the Groover from serrated and in the Groove is the engraving set.

Seams that are sunk on the back hold 2 times as long, something which is very important for horses harnesses.

There is also one with a flat awl grip under my pictures. The form is also quite good, if it was even invented to graduate at the produce to save.

So now so much fun with the pictures.

Greeting

Walter

.

.

The small case with the Awls did for time at the beginning of my professional teaching.

That was in the Saddler course of your professional association, and he was held in the army barracks in Thun, near Bern.

Each Saddler in the Switzerland a..............lso Sattler wanted to be in the army and so there was an introductory course for young professionals from 2 x 1 week in the army barracks.

Edited September 29, 2013 by walter roth

[walter roth]

And here are the rest of the photos.

[Macca]

Nice stuff Walter

Very interesting shape you made on some of those, as you say, it must return to the same position when you pick it up !

I use the flat Blanchard ones, the smallest ones they make fit very well for me, I do small stitching so small handle & blade works well.

It is lucky you still have a stock of old blades, I find new ones are very soft in comparison