Antiquing - a cry for help

[bunkhouseleather]

I add tan-kote to the antique paste also. Then finish with a top coat of tan-kote. Hilights the carving nicely and gives a nice mellow finish. Works for me anyway.

Had to post a pic to go along with your dog in the tub. This is what we usually have in our tub in the springtime. Wish it was only antique all over it. LOL!!!!

[Hilly]

I add tan-kote to the antique paste also. Then finish with a top coat of tan-kote. Hilights the carving nicely and gives a nice mellow finish. Works for me anyway.

Had to post a pic to go along with your dog in the tub. This is what we usually have in our tub in the springtime. Wish it was only antique all over it. LOL!!!!

:wtf: is that cow doing in your bath?

[TwinOaks]

Obtain 1 veterinarian's syringe, minus the needle. (or any of them really, but Vets' syringes are available in size 'BIG')

Add Gel antique and presto you've an antique gel pen.....or gel antique pen. You can even cap it.

Or...if you choose to thin the mix, keep the needle, but break the tip off to that you've got a fine tube. Now you have the solution to it getting everywhere else.

And antiquing the dog does not make him look old enough to get into pubs with you.

Edited September 13, 2008 by TwinOaks

[leathergrl]

Hi UKRay,

Did you ever have any luck with the antiquing? I read through this whole thread in order to get an understanding of what exactly to do but as I have tried antiquing some of my tooled leather in the past. As one poster indicated, when I antiqued according to the directions, the whole piece turned dark. I am back to doing my leatherwork again and my basic question about antiquing is this:

Can someone explain to me how to get the antiquing gel to get into the cracks and crevices without changing the overall color of the piece. I have read about applying neatlac and then tan kote (allowing to dry24 hrs) and then applying the antique? Is this so that you protect the leather surface from the antique while it gets down into the crevices? I have a leather floral pattern that I have toooled and like anyone, I don't want to ruin it and I have tried several different methods to get the light surface contrasted with the dark lines that makes the patern stand out.

I am a newby but I love reading everyone's posts and I just about fell out while reading about the antiquing of the dog. That was entertaining and I can definitely relate.

Thanks!

Monisavant/leathergrl

Obtain 1 veterinarian's syringe, minus the needle. (or any of them really, but Vets' syringes are available in size 'BIG')

Add Gel antique and presto you've an antique gel pen.....or gel antique pen. You can even cap it.

Or...if you choose to thin the mix, keep the needle, but break the tip off to that you've got a fine tube. Now you have the solution to it getting everywhere else.

And antiquing the dog does not make him look old enough to get into pubs with you.

I love this idea!

[leathergrl]

Unfortunately, I don't have any answers with regard to antiquing... only more questions. My problem with antiquing is that the few times I've tried it (I've only ever used Tandy's gel antique), it stains the whole project too dark. Following the directions of 'Apply. Wait about five minutes. Buff off' seems to be a bunch of malarkey. Fortunately I tried it on a scrap piece before applying it to my project.

I generally just give the whole antiquing thing a miss, so I haven't even gotten far enough with it to get it all over the room. That sounds fun...

Is there an antiquing guide posted here anywhere?

This is exactly what I have experienced.......darkening of the whole piece. bleh-

[Grumpy1]

UK Ray:

Here is one more variation for the use of Fiebing Antique Stains. I have been using this method for about 40 years and have yet to find anything better. Start by diluting the heavy bodied stain with a 50/50 mix with Fiebing Bag Kote, this will give you a liquid about the consistancy of dairy cream. The resin based Bag Kote will make the antique stains WATER SOLUABLE, to a degree.

I apply it with a small cheapie soldering brush, without the benefit of rubber gloves, brushing well down into the design impressions, doing the entire belt, wallet, checkbook, holster, item, in one five minute session.

Put on ONE rubber glove, on whichever hand you will be rubbing with, and begin wiping with a dampened cotton cloth, until you get the desired contrast and color penetration. If desired you can take an old tooth brush and brush some of the deposits inside the stamp patterns and knife cuts to the surface where it can also be wiped away. The rubber glove will prevent the fingers from being stained from color

that penetrates the cloth. Bag Kote is compatible with all finishes that I have lever use, including

Lac-Kote,Tan-Kote and acrylics.

Happy Toning!

Grumpy1

Edited April 11, 2010 by Grumpy1

[UKRay]

This thread seems to run and run...

I finally got a great system together for dealing with antiquing that includes elements of all of the above. I now have paper on the bench that can be removed when it gets dirty, I have vinyl gloves so I can keep my hands clean and I have a range of applicators to make sure the filthy stuff stays on the leather and does not reach the dog.

Personally, I find that mixing antiquing with Tan-Kote works best for me (thanks for that one, Kate) as it tends to dilute the antiquing and doesn't turn the whole project black. I just take a good dollop out of the jar with a spoon and drop it into a jam jar. Pour a healthy splash of Tan-Kote on top and stir until it feels about right - kinda like the consistency of thick custard.

Okay - who doesn't know what a jam jar is?

Who doesn't know what thickness custard is?

We have a whole different language over here in the UK... I'll happily translate if required!

Then I spread it around the project being careful not to get any on the back of the leather. I then leave it overnight - which is why all my antiquing jobs are left to the end of my work schedule. It makes a nice 'finish' (pardon the pun) to a busy day... LOL

The following day I buff the surplus compound from the job and give it a final wipe over with some neat Tan-Kote to seal everything into place. Job done.

Ray

[leathergrl]

This thread seems to run and run...

I finally got a great system together for dealing with antiquing that includes elements of all of the above. I now have paper on the bench that can be removed when it gets dirty, I have vinyl gloves so I can keep my hands clean and I have a range of applicators to make sure the filthy stuff stays on the leather and does not reach the dog.

Personally, I find that mixing antiquing with Tan-Kote works best for me (thanks for that one, Kate) as it tends to dilute the antiquing and doesn't turn the whole project black. I just take a good dollop out of the jar with a spoon and drop it into a jam jar. Pour a healthy splash of Tan-Kote on top and stir until it feels about right - kinda like the consistency of thick custard.

Okay - who doesn't know what a jam jar is?

Who doesn't know what thickness custard is?

We have a whole different language over here in the UK... I'll happily translate if required!

Then I spread it around the project being careful not to get any on the back of the leather. I then leave it overnight - which is why all my antiquing jobs are left to the end of my work schedule. It makes a nice 'finish' (pardon the pun) to a busy day... LOL

The following day I buff the surplus compound from the job and give it a final wipe over with some neat Tan-Kote to seal everything into place. Job done.

Ray

Ray, thanks for the reply. So let me get this straight. When you mix it with tankote (with no other treatment to the piece prior to application), the piece does not go too dark even after sitting overnight?

I hope this works, because I am nervous about messing up my piece that I painstakingly tooled. I'm sure you can understand that sentiment. I am going to try it out.

[Luke Hatley]

Ray, thanks for the reply. So let me get this straight. When you mix it with tankote (with no other treatment to the piece prior to application), the piece does not go too dark even after sitting overnight?

I hope this works, because I am nervous about messing up my piece that I painstakingly tooled. I'm sure you can understand that sentiment. I am going to try it out.

**********************************************************************88

Leathergrl... you sometimes have to try things out on a Practice piece.

Edited April 13, 2010 by Luke Hatley

[UKRay]

**********************************************************************88

Leathergrl... you sometimes have to try things out on a Practice piece.

As Luke says: sometimes the only way to know if something will work is try it on a test piece before hitting the important stuff. This is much harder to do when you are starting out as there never seems to be any scraps of leather left when you need one. After a while it gets easier... LOL

Practise pieces make perfect!

Ray